Showroom 3070W 6DOF Seat Mover (WIP Surge_Sway table)

UPDATE 04/2020

- Only VR
- Totally redesigned but same platform
- More news and videos to come soon




OLD CONTENT

Hi all
The idea to rebuild a CXC Simulator was at the end of 2013. After XX months including studying the matter, collecting information and hardware and at least the hardest part (the building) the rig has been finished!
The rig is a 2DOF seat mover plus additional DOF's:

• a DOF for heave
• a DOF for the traction loss
• a DOF for surge (tabl11)
• a DOF for sway

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The rig:

The mechanical motion design (w/o traction loss)

Videos:
Nordschleife 02/15/2016

Winches Sound Check:

The hardware (not updated since months, many changes here):
3 x winches (each max. 750W or 120A peak, continuous current 40A ) = 230$ (ebay)

1x 12V DC Geared Motor 300W, Motor with 60:1 ratio Gearbox for Traction Loss = £65,00 (ebay)

3X Arduino UNO 3 = 28$ (Aliexpress)

7x Sparkfun Moto Monster = 91$ (Aliexpress)

3x P270-DS22 B-10 KR Lin 10 kΩ 2 W ± 10 % = 60$

2x IBM Blade Center DPS-2000BB A 2000W 39Y7359 39Y7360 = 2 x 40$ (ebay)

2x HP DL 360 G5 (HP ATSN-7000956-Y000) server PSU - 700W = 20$ (ebay)

3 x Qumi Q7 for the visuals (there are cheaper models...) = expensive

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- 3 x screens, MDF plates with a special zero gain screen = DIY
- Thrustmaster T500RS
- PC: I7 2.6@3.8GHz, GTX 670 SLI, 6GB PC2000 RAM, Win7, 3 Soundcards = expensive...
- 1 x Butt Kicker (seat) = 140$

- 4 x Bass Shakers, Amplifier 400W = 150$
- Extra 1000W PSU for amplifier (1000W not needed, was already available)
Some more extras:
Button Box P1 from Derek Speare $99.-
Racing seat Sparco Circuit VTR (second hand) $200.-
OMP racing wheel Corsica 350mm diameter (suede) $120.-
Chinese 7" tablet as a 2nd dashboard using DashmeterPro $60.-
SLIMax Manager from Eksimracing using my Samsung Note 2 $10.-
Sequential HQ Shifter by FrexGP $160.-
F1 Wheel AddOn for the T500RS $140.-
TM1638 module $5.-
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Power consummation on 220V line:

• No driving, all gadgets on: power ~950W, power factor 0.88 - 0.97, current 4.2A
  
• Driving a GT3 car on Nordschleife (Assetto Corsa): power ~1200 W (~1450 W peak.), power factor 0.88 - 0.95, current ~5.00 -6.00 A (9.4 A peak).

These results are measured without the separate heave motor under the seat. Due to the very high load of this motor (it is working rather near at the maximum) I expect up to 2000W and probably more.
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Welcome Pit here in this forum – good choice

Nice Static sim , good luck with the Ard.

Thx a lot @Historiker in an other thread for helping wiring issues.

I use now the Arduino UNO/Duemilanove 2dof firmware by Prilad.

Needed wiring:

Arduino------------Motomonster

Motor 1
pin 8 --------------D7 Dir1
" 12--------------D8 Dri2
" 9---------------D5 Pwm

Motor 2
Pin 11---------------D4 Dir1
" 13--------------D9 Dir2
" 10--------------D6 Pwm

GND and +5V has to be connected as well.

First impressions using xSimCTRL:

after 6 hours experiments "try and error" I give up (at the moment). I will wait for the right potis.

Hi Pit,

Did you correct the wiring on the pots? You will not get the proper value into the Arduino until you do. The way you had it set up, it appears to the Arduino as if the pot is fully turned in one direction regardless of the actual position. It is not seeing the sweeper voltage. There is no difference between the 10k 10turn pots and the ones that you have on order other than the number of turns. Both, if wired incorrectly, will give false readings.

Hi Historiker

Finally I tried out all wiring combinations of the potis but w/o success. Probably this Arduino clone does not work correctly.

Hi, @Pit
You can check analog inputs by connecting it to GND and then to 5.0V (or to 3.3V) with any resistor (1 .. 100 kOhm). And check input values by xSimCtrl...

And one more thing - try to change SenLo = 10 and SensHi = 245 (and write new values to EEPROM). And check inputs again.

Hi Prilad thanks for helping checking using a multimeter would be an option?

I think you should check by software - with xSimCtrl. You should see "input" value on blue slider...

Three projectors - impressive, look forward in seeing the rig moving.

Recommend you put up a simple wiring diagram of how you have wired your pots. Also some pot wipers are not always the centre pin (check with meter). Lots of knowledgeable people on this site who should be able to help.

my test was not quite in accordance with your inputs, so once again...

I connected the GND to PIN A0, the resistor (47 k) in +V5 and connected that with A0. The slider shows nothing. The "L" LED is off.

Hi Pit,

Here are a couple of pictures via the Bourn spec sheet. Notice that the wiper pin, the one that the Arduino reads as an analog input, is Pin 2 according to the wiring diagram. Also note that Pin 2 is the rearmost physical pin on the pot itself according to the layout diagram also from the spec sheet. Like Seattime mentions, it is often confusing as the older and more common style of potentiometer always has the wiper in the middle.

It doesn't matter which pin (1 or 3) positive or ground goes to, it will just change the direction that the pot is turned to increase or decrease the signal. You can use this to change the direction of the motor if the pot does not match the motor or do like I do and change the wiring on the motor instead. CCW means "Counter Clock Wise" and CW means "Clock Wise".

Wiper (pin 2) must be the pin that goes to the Arduino analog read pin.

I hope this helps.

Hi Historiker

Thank you, in the meantime I studied the PINs as well and your thoughts are confirming my suspicion. So IMHO the very first wiring was the right one.

For now I will wait Prilad's response if the Arduino clone is possibly damaged or not.

Hi Pit,

Which was the first configuration? I am making my suggestions based on the way you had it wired in the pictures you posted in Prilad's thread.

Here are the pictures that you posted, the red wires that you have plugged into the Arduino +5v pin are going to the wipers which is incorrect. Your yellow wire should go to the wiper on one pot and your orange wire should go to the wiper on the other pot. The blue (ground wires) are fine but the +5v wires should go to the center pin on the pots.


I do not mean to confuse anything for you, I really am trying to help.
I am using these pots, Arduino and driver shield myself.


Edit: By the way, a good way to test your arduino is to run the Blink with potentiometer sketch that is included with the Arduino IDE program.

I don't know. Can you check analog input with any other "firmware"? I mean any Sketch for arduino for Analog reading test?

Here is a tutorial for using a pot to dim an LED with the Arduino, it will help you to see if your analog inputs are working:

http://www.arduino.cc/en/Tutorial/Potentiometer#.UxsYz4VAcRY

"Your yellow wire should go to the wiper on one pot"

Oh my god, that's it. I was wrong. Totally confused by the wirings

is this now right?