2000 watts server supply: DPS-2000BB (A)

The time of endless Ampere motor drivers has begun, so we need endless strong PSUs.
@RacingMat has posted already detailed information about a very usable 1400W PSU here.
My winches are drawing 1500 watts (max. and together), so why not using one PSU instead of two. The DPS-2000 BB sever supply shows some very impressive specs. The maximum output current of the DPS-2000BB is 164A at 12.2v minimum and spits out 2000 watts. This gadget is typically about $40-$50 on eBay . To fire it up up you need an IEC C19 power cable. BTW the DPS-2500BB has 2500 Watt but hardly available. The pinout you will find here.


If you want use some sockets, here you go:

http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/51762-10802400ABLF/609-4020-ND/1492063
UPdate 04/19/2015
Final thoughts after testing: the PSU works great, but has some security routines implemented which do not allow very high current peaks. One PSU will shut down anytime if you are using more than only one very powerful motor. One PSU - one motor - no issues. If you are using 300 or 400 W motors one PSU should do the job for two motors.

Just this minute I was bidding and winning two of them (each 30€ plus delivery).

Just think if Apollo 11 had this kinda power on tap.

@Pit : have you found the way to start this reference? plug the 230V is not enough...

Do you know if there are noisy?
I know I have to make a video for you of the 1400W PSU to tell you if it's noisy (coming soon)

You won't be able to run this supply off a normal household wall socket as it draws 12A AC (likely more). Your standard GPO is 10A rated. It should be ok if you are only planning on using about 120A DC max but if you are planning on running it near maximum capacity you should find out what kind of circuit protection you have at home and if that will prevent you from using this supply.

Also DO NOT try to hack up some 10A cable to fit this supply as I'm pretty sure it is a 15A cable that is required (larger earth pin, larger cores to take more current).

Good find though.

Of course, most of the PSU do not start only by connecting with 230V.

This PSU doesn't have an internal fan, so I have to mount one externally.

Not Very loud at all, more than acceptable, what size fans are those 80mm ?

This is correct. I doubt if I will ever run this PSU at max. load. At the moment I am running two 700 Watt server supplies (each 69A), one 1000Watt PSU (but ony 32A) and one 450 Watt server supply for TL, the i7 PC with 800W, the 3 projectors, some more devices, a office PC and more devices on the same floor at the same time. Of course I do not use the same socket but it works, my home fuse is still running. You have read my comment above that I will switch the two 700 watts PSUs to one...?

There exists some adapters but I ordered this cable for modifying to use it with my mushroom button (20A):

BTW if a PSU is certified for drawing 164 A w/o fan you can be sure that it will not blow immediately if you use only 60A - w/o fan ... notabene.

Some houses have fuses which might or might not blow depending on rating, some have RCDs which won't really care about over current (to an extent). The biggest problem is the wiring in your walls. If they are old and only rated to 10 amps then you have a serious risk of a fire starting in the wall cavity from over heating cables. A lot of houses were built with cables that only just pass the mark whereas other houses were built with much thicker cables to accept larger loads from multiple 10A connections. Sounds like you've got some hefty wiring in your walls if your running all that off one circuit! Might even be multiple circuits from the GPOs. Or your walls might be getting nice and warm.

I'm not trying to spread doom and gloom about getting this PSU but just making sure that people are aware of risks.

I have a house that was built in the mid 70s and from being in the roof space I know than my cables are only just rated to 10A. My house would probably spontaneously combust if this power supply even went through the front door.
If I have too many things on at home my breaker will trip.

Also, a 15A power lead will not fit in a 10A power socket. For those who don't know, this is because a 15A socket MUST be rated much higher than a 10A socket in terms of thickness of the wiring used to power the GPO. Some people shave down the thicker earth pin to fit in a 10A GPO and then not realize they have made in-wall heating by over loading the 10A wiring.

Houses have burned down by doing this, It's been beaten into my head from my lecturers whilst doing a training course and so now I'll beat it in to yours!

Thank you for helping me and all other guys here. You are right we must do attention to that. My house is 15 years old and I have some of theese 10A + sockets for stronger motors. In fact this is not a 15 or 16A solution but from that reason my fuse is running fine. Nevertheless I will ask my electrician if some upgrade is needed.

I didn't see at first that you put the link to the pinout trick in your first post


http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showpost.php?p=18117345&postcount=611

Got news: my house cables are rated between [EDIT] 10A and 16A . I must have a look from where I can draw off the 16A line.

The breaking capacity of the "10A" protectors is 15kA (IEC 947) and the in/A is 13 A. Now I was searching the whole internet - these 13A protectors do not longer exist. Now we have only 10A or 16A (or less or more) but nothing between these two values...

Usually an electrician would have to install a 15A dedicated line if you want to power such units. Well in Australia anyway. Other countries I'm unsure what standards they wire to. generally you would not need to have protectors in between 10 and 16 because "household" goods are limited to 10A as well as your wall sockets only rated to 10A. Any equipment drawing 15A and over is "industrial" and thus needs to conform to that standard which general household wiring does not conform to ( in Australia)

@Alexey IMO here is not different, only to say in my house the thermal heat pump seems to have a 16A line respectively 16A protectors.