2dof to 3dof DIY Seat mover

Hey Fellow Sim Nuts

Been wanting to do a motion setup for a long time, ever since seeing the Insane Full frame motion rig's to the Simple seat movers on youtube when i first got my G27 back a few years.

After realizing the Full size rigs were Ridiculous amounts of $$ i thought I would never get the pleasure of Racing with Motion. Then I found this Site and All the DIY projects you guys have so ingeniously designed around different types of equipment. Big thanks to bsft aka MotionDave for all the help and answering all the questions and helping me grasp how all these pieces of equipment work in conjunction.

Im wanting to build a Simple Seat mover that will be incorporated into my current rig.

Motor's will be the 200W 180rpm version
http://www.motiondynamics.com.au/worm-drive-motor-12v-24v-200w-180-rpm-20nm-torque.html

Controllers will be the Pololu JRK 12v12

Pots will be hall effect 360deg Part No: 6127V1A180L.5FS

Power supply im looking at something like this or open to any suggestions, would i Need just One or two ?
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/500W-Uni...cal_Test_Equipment&hash=item256fb4a8bf&_uhb=1

Software will be Simtools as recommended by bsft


My current Rig base is 21" wide, I would prefer to keep it that narrow if possible. Some of the Designs i see have a rather large angle on the arms, What am i loosing if i keep it narrow ? Can the lack of angle be made up for in the software tweaking ? Ive seen Seat movers with the motor's Directly UNDER the seat So that would lead me to believe I would be fine in keeping the width i currently have.

here's the back of my rig, Sub normally sits right in the middle and it looks like it could be sqweezed in between the 2 motor's on either back corner, extra 2x4 jet out if to catch the legs of the sub so thats the subs width/debth. Obviously with the seat moving for/aft/side to side I will have to extend the base to provide enough space for the seat to move and not hit the sub.






Im sure ill have a zillion more question's over the coming days/weeks so please bare with me. =)







Finished product,

Hi @Nick Moxley , I just noticed a small discrepancy I thought I would point out that may save you a little time and money. If you are wanting 360 degree pots don't purchase the part number you posted. The 180 at the end means its a 180 degree pot. The one you want will have 360 on it!

180 degree is perfect for a seat mover with the pot coupled directly to the motor output. 180 degree is the absolute max rotation a seat mover will have.

O

Okay. Technically that is referred to as a 180 degree pot so I didn't know which one you actually wanted!

Thanks for lookin out BlazinH but I plan to mount it As Simon said, Directly to the gear box output bolt.


Any tips or suggestion on the Angles of the rear arms, kinda curious about that as extending my base any wider might pose a wee issue.

Maybe no more angle that 8 deg total, or it could be too hard to hang onto.
So a 40-45mm CTC lever on the motors as you would only be using 60-70mm total travel should be enough for a seat mover.
How are you planning to build the setup, motors at front of seat underneath?
Shoulder mount at rear?

Ok how do i calculate the degrees ? or do i need more solid dimension's/measurements first.

shoulder mount for sure. Again current base is 21" wide, I could add a plate to each rear corner and squeeze 27" out of the rear before im Too Fat to fit in its storage location. also I technically could move the whole Pedalbox/Seat box Forward on the Base and gain a few inches in length on the base for more angle That way.

Take a gander at this mate. If you require can pm more of the plans to you. Welcome to copy it or redesign it to suit your needs, complete with motor mount for the listed motors.

Thanks eaorobbie but Im still not technically understanding how the angles and what not effect speed or degrees of motion.So Like i said before ive seen some rigs with the motor's directly under the seat and they dont seem to lack any movement. My rear arms would look like this currently (pre moving seat/pedals forward 2 3/4") Also as you can see the arm isn't on the base anymore but i can easily make plates for the motor's to squeeze another could inches. Plus i could gain another 2 3/4 from the pedal/seat being moved forward.




the other angle

motors under the seat dont look like they affect movement, and I know from experience now that yes, motors can be run under seat. But shoulder mount does give really sharp motion. Motors under the seat can do the same if you really wind them up.
Angle from back looks good, maybe spread it out a bit at the rear though. Can you allow 15 deg angle going out to the side?

This worked for me

Im sure i could squeeze another inch or 2 on the width of the base to give some more angle. But i cant make the 33" width for the base you have, just don't have the real estate.



So power supplies, this is what im looking at, but if there's any better deals out there you guys know about. Also what inputs do the JKS boards require, I see some of the power supplies have a Bunch of different connectors. I know the JKS need 7 wires, which might those be exactly

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/500W-Uni...cal_Test_Equipment&hash=item256fb4a8bf&_uhb=1

http://www.ebay.com/itm/500W-12V-41...165?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2c7bf9c7a5




Is it as simple as 2 wires for PS, 2 wires to Motor, and 3 wires for the POT ? What are all the other inputs on the left hand side of the JRK

Found this and seems rather simple to convert a PC PS to what we need. I found quite a few video's on youtube about Faulty PS from the HK and china and I could care less to be shipping 5lb bricks back and forth till i get a working one.


little complicated near the end with the resistors and LED's but looks do able.

So after doing a bunch of research and talking to some PC geeks, The PC power supply is do able but unfortunately the Amperage range i need means BUKU $$$. So the China version would be the easiest. Unfortunately ive found some rather Horrible reviews on the ebay Power supplies , couple guys took 3 tries to get a working supply.

So any suggestions that might not blow up in my face or show up Dead on my doorstep would be great.

Hi Nick,

PSU 12V 47A
On eBay, DPS-600PB http://www.ebay.fr/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_sacat=0&_nkw=DPS-600pb&_sop=15 costs only 30€
575W : 47A 12V

You don't have to open the Power Supply Unit : no risks
Only 3 external pins to be connected together

Check these 2 tutorials
https://sites.google.com/site/tjinguytech/my-projects/HP47A
http://www.worldwidedx.com/general-...243-server-power-supply-conversion-cheap.html

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/500W-Uni...cal_Test_Equipment&_uhb=1&hash=item256fb4a8bf I use these and have had no problems.
For connection of JRK, try this pic

With base size and motor placement, whats the exact sizes you have to work with? Then I can suggest something.

Wow so seriously just connect 3 wires and I have a More than ample Power supply at 1/5 the cost ? IT cant be THAT simple is it ? lol


wow 15$ a pop and IN CANADA!!!!!!!!!!
http://www.ebay.com/itm/DPS-600PB-H...846754?pt=COMP_EN_Servers&hash=item461b1190e2

Talked to another PC geek at a different store today and he was more than happy to talk Power supplies. He has a 600w PC PS that would require a PS checker(to basically turn on the PS) then all that's left is to group all the colors of wires together with a connector he suggested. 100$ a pop for these and they would remain "stock" and retain a warranty (kinda cool if ever needed)

But if these Dell Server PS's are as easy as being made out to be, IM DOWN lol

Currently without moving Anything ON the base. the rear is 21" wide and 16" deep including the 2x4 shelf for the sub. Obviously the Seat box will be gone and replaced with something to mount the U joint on and that's where i plan to mount the Power supplies and JRKs Under the seat support.


Man i wish i knew how to draw stuff on CAD. would make thing's O so much easier to explain.

pencil and paper and scanner is fine, I dont use CAD.

you might want to tell the pc guy that you are not running a big graphics card, but a high amp dc motor that can send spikes of power back into the psu