DIY Sim wheel: Force feedback

Hi,

has someone an idea how I could pick up steering force feedback signals (fet-ready gate signals) from racing sims? I'd like to build my own steering wheel. The Mjoy16 controller should do the trick, but it can't do the force feedback job :-(


Thanks,
Jay

If you can get the software to output some kind of position or force/direction data, a controller such as the AMC can translate it into the force feedback on the wheel. It is not that simple, most of the commercial FF wheels have their own software and interface to do this.

As far as I know the AVR has only analog and digital inputs. To get the FFB working it would need 1 analog + 1 digital output for the FFB signal.

1 analog input for the steering wheel.
1 analog output for the translated FFB (PWM) -> connected to h-bridge -> FFB motor
1 digital output for direction control -> connected to h-bridge

AVR + Mjoy16 + X-Sim should indeed cause a lot of work. But how works a common racing wheel? Wheels like the G25 are working without any software driver.
Racing games are sending continuous FFB data and a G25 can pick it up and translate it into movement.

What is the interface between wheel and game? DirectX? DirectInput?

Hard to believe that there isn't any FFB interface/controller available. I've searched google for hours and didn't found any proper FFB in/out interface.

There is always a driver. If you don't have to install it separately then it is using the standard HID and PID Device drivers in Windows. The interface between the game and the wheel is usually the game itself. There are no programs or drivers like X-Sim to send the FFB data to the wheel from DirectX, the game uses the USB drivers and sends the data directly.
The device is usually recognized or you have to select it from a specific list in the program. This makes me think that each wheel could use different protocols based on the manufacturer and this is where it becomes complicated... I definietly plan to make a gaming controller with FFB. Unfortunately Im way too busy right now and I will have to do a lot of research.

Could I use one single hall sensor for steering input (Leo Bodnar controller or Mjoy16) and simultaneous for position tracking of the wheel (X-Sim)?

LeoBodnar is working on a FFB controller. Is not a DIY solution but it's the first step to a DIY wheel. :happy:
More info on RSC forums...

And he is working for years on it. He is very busy and he can't say when it will be released. That board would be my first choice. :brows:

I know than Leo was working on it from a few month or years ago, but see the year marked on the board (2009), and Leo tell me than he has intention to release this FFB controller on final 2009 or beginning 2010.

In fact, the controller is finished but he can't confirm 100% compatibility with any servo, than he is searching a cheap servo to confirm compatibility with his controller.

Sorry by my English... ;P

Sound good, thanks. Next on my list is a h-shifter and it will take some time until its workin. Maybe Leo will release it in the meantime.

a DIY Shifter?
Try to build this... :lol:

Thanks, but I'll do it my way. Found a Porsche G50 shifter on google:


Based on this h-shifter I designed my own version. My CAD concept:



Most of the parts are already here and the 4 main pieces of the housing are already cut (CNC). I have the tools to build the rest, but no time. Maybe around x-mas.

Lets keep this discussion on topic: DIY FFB wheels.

Open a new topic for DIY H-Shifters for more discussion

hi jakob, I´m working on a DIY FFB wheel too, but this project is very big and laborious.

I looked at your design with Leo´s board and the Velleman, but I think you should use one single board, with analog input an PWM output.

To control the motor I am thinking to use an H-bridge with current sensor, so you could set the apropiate torque in the steering shaft. Any comercial wheel does this.

I am designing a board (based on a PIC 18F4550) to reach all this functions. The best way to drive DC motors is by ECCP module (Enhanced Capture/Compare/PWM)

The H bridge is similar on Tronicg´s design with a little modification.

In the PC I think to use rFactor InternalsPlugin.dll witch give me the steering torque value.

As Crobol, sorry for my english.
Regards, Willy

Hi Willy,

I've rejected the Velleman idea and I'm actually working on a uC (ATMEL) controller board for the wheel. I wrote in another thread:

Thread link: avr-boards-bascom-t2137.html


I have some 24V industry robot motors (110oz torque, 8Amps), two h-bridges (each can handle up to 20Amps) and an ATMega88 dev board. I'll test the wheel with one and with two motors. But one should be enough.

I hope it works out. When it does, I'll make a tutorial and post the layout + software.

hi Jakob, I don´t fully understand your explanation but its ok.
I think this way: Inspired in AN893 of Microchip http://oretano.iele-ab.uclm.es/~mhidalg ... orless.pdf
With only one H bridge in full configuration is easy to change direction and velocity.
Then with the current sensor converted to voltage drop, I have the actual torque reference, and by soft inside the uC I set the counteracting motor torque by lowering the speed to rest in the position.
As I´ve mentioned, InternalsPlugin.dll of rFactor give me actual aligning torque in the steering rack.

By this way, motor acts more like a servo.

The PWM frecuency to drive motors not need to be more than 20khz, I think that the value 33Mhz is a mistake of measurement.

Any way, I´ll keep on line to here about your succes.
Regards, Willy

I want to have your opinion on the functioning of xsim with wheel force feedback:
I ordered a wheel Happ, and I would like to use x sim for Effects

Velleman card + H Bridge Motor Drive + wheel HAPP + XSIM 25/27/26 effects .......

is that enough ?
logitech example, they use the same thing?

my first idea ,The alternative is to use a logitech wheel card same people in France use this solution.
if you don't know HAPP:
http://www.happcontrols.com/driving/50010200.htm

this DIY systeme is OK, but if it possible i want to don't use a logitech card but a spécific card (léo bodnar for example or other solution, velleman + H bridge)

thanks

Hi Guys..

I saw something on the internet:

They put 48 volt on the G25 They call it g25-e on youtube are some movies about it

http://www.virtualr.net/logitech-g25-e-by-team-arc-now-available/

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tJzVPrjNCeI

http://sim-modding.com/

: :

Maybe someone knows how they do it.. the change also something on the print

They bypass H-bridge of G25 by stronger H-bridge. If you want play you can use Thanos H-bridge with small changes.