Showroom 6DOF racing platform 12v dc 3.6kw arduino and mm/SMC3

Hopefully 6DOF math updates to Simtools V2 will enable the roll center to be adjustable in software. BFF can already do this. Although dropping the Centre of gravity of a rig also helps in reducing inertia.

@eaorobbie has already been playing with 6 dof math plugin. As far as rod end placement I just took a look at the overall placement of the top to the bottom. Placed the top on buckets to see how it balanced out then I welded on the wings on the side of the rig. I did have to move the ends around once. The thought behind my design was to try to emulate the feeling of the four corners of the car. I don't do much flight so i didn't really take that into account.

Iracing at MIS

Quality work there Bruce,,,,, your rig looks mint dude.. ...........Damn i hope i don't get the bug to build a 6DOF ,,the missus would surely kill me ,,,lol

Due to the hasty assembly of my feedback system I have been wearing out pots (hall sensors). Three have died in a month. The rods were not centered enough and caused the bearings in the sensors to wear out (lateral deflection). So I picked up a few parts to try to do the belt setup again. The first attempt was during my 2dof build and never got past testing due to the same type of lateral deflection. This time the pressure from the belt tension will be on two pillow blocks rather than the pot or hall sensor. The pulleys are printed.

Amazing rig...admire your skills.

ty for the kind words

Found a plate at the flea market today.

I only have the rear two motors converted so far but over ten hours and no problems. I printed a bracket for the position sensor.

I can still see a bit of deflection on the pot from the coupler....if you look at the 3 central slits, they are smaller gap than the 2 outer slots which would tell me there's a bit of deflection going on there......then again it might be an camera flash/reflection thing. When you rotate the shaft can you see those gaps increase on the opposite side ?

I would advise using Button head style screw's VS Flathead/Countersunk screws, That will allow you to drill the hole in the pot mount slightly over sized and give you the ability to adjust out those small inaccuracies.

Pretty even but yes there is a slight bit on the pot. I bent the coupler drilling it to fit the pot. The other side is better. Hopefully its not enough to matter but maybe ill swap out the coupler. pan heads would probably work better. good idea.

Ah, trying to drill the couplers i could imagine being a challenge if the bit snags a little.

I was going thru videos and found this. It shows my left rear motor shutting down then there is a puff of smoke when the monster DIES. This was the burnt one early in the thread. the monster was working by itself and as you see didnt have much of a chance.(watch bottom right)

Thanks for posting your mms and heat sink link I bought from same buyer and all is well on the ones I tested thanks again

sweet glad it worked out @Justin Dail
just added two of these. makes startup much easier.

www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BWF5U0M/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Hi Bruce,

Do you have clear picture of where you mount the spring you mention? You said it reduced a lot of weight on the motor, but I can't seem to figure it out? Is it suppose to help holding up the rig? or just pull it back to position?

You also mention the Bodine motor was running your MM hot on your 3DOF, this is why you're using 2x MM per motor... Have you ever thinking of using Peltier thermal cooling on the MM?

I used one peltier for both of the MM, it consume about 50watts... but both of my MM is actually ICE COLD... yes, ICE cold.

So I was thinking to build a 6DOF with my left over Bodine, but only use 1x MM per motor.

@helisfreak its just a nitrogen spring. i use three @60lbs. each. they are placed in the center between the motors on the base and the rod mounts on the top. they offset around 180lbs. they just push, the motors maintain position.

as far as the peltier cooler i have 5 of them(had 6 lol) but have never really messed with them beyond when they arrived. i hooked one up to a psu, it got hot/cold then went poof in a cloud of smoke. how do you regulate temp?

gl with one per motor. but at less than 6bucks each I would recommend two per motor. one was fine for 2 dof but the size of this is too much IMO. But maybe with peltier......its just a lot of amps. it runs on three different house circuits to prevent a tripped breaker. the first ride resulted in a slam to the floor because of a power spike that rebooted my pc.

Thanks for the pix on the spring.

I don't have any temp regulator to control the peltier temp. I just turn them on when the motor is on. The important thing about these peltier is that you need to know which one is the HOT side and a big heat sink and cooling fan must go on there BEFORE you turn it on. Without sufficient heat dissipation, within 3-5seconds it can burn out.

I guess I can try it and report back here. But I believe it can do it because of the proper cooling it's getting. My MM is running at about 50F (maybe that's too cold). Certainly could put it on a voltage regulator and cut the voltage down to 8volts or so and it won't be as cold. The one I bought is rated 12v 5amps (but real world it only draw 2.5amps @ 12v = 30watts). As you can see I am only using one per 2x MM, sharing the same heat sink. Could probably do 3x MM on the same heat shink.

Only the two big black chip need to be cool right? all the other one doesn't seem to go above ambient without heat sink.

I found the ones i got before. Maybe I'll mess with them now that I've seen them working. Why arent they used on pcs? Seem like a good solution for main processor. Like i said i had 6 but one went poof.