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What kind of printer do you use?

Discussion in '3D Printing' started by bruce stephen, Feb 12, 2016.

Page 5 of 14
  1. Artois

    Artois New Member

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    I can't post links. I am looking at the HICTOP Reprap Prusa I3 MK8 on amazon.
    Artois, Dec 17, 2016
    #81
  2. Archie

    Archie Eternal tinkerer

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    • Agree Agree x 1
    Archie, Dec 17, 2016
    #82
  3. bruce stephen

    bruce stephen Hammer doesnt fix it, must be electrical

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    @Artois you just have to post a few times before you can post links/pics. Spam protection is all.
    bruce stephen, Dec 17, 2016
    #83
  4. Nick Moxley

    Nick Moxley Well-Known Member

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    I personally feel there isn't much better than a Prusa i3 mk2 for the price. Ya you can get units very Similar for WAY less...but i would venture to say you'll also get Way lower quality of a print. I've had Great suscess with mine and wouldn't trade it for anything. After seeing some "examples" of 3dhubs printed parts and a few other printed parts ive came across over the years....the Prusa kicks those other printers to the kerb and keeps on rollin.
    • Agree Agree x 1
    Nick Moxley, Dec 17, 2016
    #84
  5. Nick Moxley

    Nick Moxley Well-Known Member

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    the firmware, Auto leveling, Auto Axis Skew adjustments make this Machine a Awesome little unit.


    Be sure to stat tuned to OpenSimRigs.com for all your 3d printing needs. ;)
    • Agree Agree x 1
    • Useful Useful x 1
    Nick Moxley, Dec 17, 2016
    #85
  6. bruce stephen

    bruce stephen Hammer doesnt fix it, must be electrical

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    Prusa platform is definitely the best. I3 printer parts are everywhere. They are also a lot more reliable than most others. Love my Prusa!
    bruce stephen, Dec 17, 2016
    #86
  7. bruce stephen

    bruce stephen Hammer doesnt fix it, must be electrical

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    bruce stephen, Dec 17, 2016
    #87
  8. Nick Moxley

    Nick Moxley Well-Known Member

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    The Printer itself isn't crazy expensive, but the resin sure appears to be

    100$ for 500ml....tho maybe 500ml will last a long time, compared to PLA prices i dont think it can compete for prototyping for the $$.

    Our printers are soo old school already....blah, i dont have the $$ to keep up with printer tech.


    Mk2 will go down to .05 pretty effectively. Unfortunately the print times are rather insane long if its a larger object.


    • Agree Agree x 1
    Nick Moxley, Dec 17, 2016
    #88
  9. paulg100

    paulg100 Active Member

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    Ive been really happy with my Wanhao Duplicator I3 plus and would recommend it for a first printer. Quite a bit cheaper than the perusa but still excellent prints and no niggles to speak of yet.

    However if the perusa is in budget id still go with that just for all the auto leveling stuff. Also theres good upgrade options for multi colour etc later on.

    for SLA this is one I have my eye on for work, should be quite a revolution for the price:

    http://uniz3d.com/
    paulg100, Dec 18, 2016
    #89
  10. Nick Moxley

    Nick Moxley Well-Known Member

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    The Nobel 1.0 comes in a Lot cheaper than the Slash. About 1000$ cheaper.
    Nick Moxley, Dec 18, 2016
    #90
  11. paulg100

    paulg100 Active Member

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    Yeah the nobel 1 is cheap but poor resolution (relatively speaking) and slow as heck. The slash uses an LCD panel to flash the build plate instead of a laser to trace out each layer.
    That's why its up to 50 times quicker.
    • Like Like x 1
    paulg100, Dec 18, 2016
    #91
  12. Nick Moxley

    Nick Moxley Well-Known Member

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    Ah sheesh, i guess i should learn up on SLS tech. Thanks for the info. The main question i have for SLS is how quick do you use up the resin....i know for 25$ in PLA i can do a pretty stupid amount of objects and not worry too much about a Slicing screw up (ON my part) as most general parts are worth 5$ or less.
    Nick Moxley, Dec 18, 2016
    #92
  13. bruce stephen

    bruce stephen Hammer doesnt fix it, must be electrical

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    yes there is also dlp sla. Laser is the best resolution. people are doing the dlp as DIY projects.
    bruce stephen, Dec 18, 2016
    #93
  14. bruce stephen

    bruce stephen Hammer doesnt fix it, must be electrical

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    have you tried the PET-G filament @Nick Moxley. Similar to abs but zero shrink.
    bruce stephen, Dec 18, 2016
    #94
  15. Nick Moxley

    Nick Moxley Well-Known Member

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    Yes, i picked up some Transparent Red. which turned out to be Pink...lol but haven't done much with it yet, Been backlogged with Prints for OSR.

    [​IMG]
    • Like Like x 3
    Nick Moxley, Dec 18, 2016
    #95
  16. bruce stephen

    bruce stephen Hammer doesnt fix it, must be electrical

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    Lol I have a roll of "red" Petg I'm using up. I just spray it black. I also thought red would be cool. Well it's pink.....
    • Funny Funny x 2
    bruce stephen, Dec 19, 2016
    #96
  17. Nick Moxley

    Nick Moxley Well-Known Member

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    I Soooo know what im printing with my Roll O pink PETG......My 98yr old Grandfather flew a Spitfire in WWII....this will go nicely on the shelf beside his Tiny scale model.





    It Flies too

    • Like Like x 3
    Nick Moxley, Dec 20, 2016
    #97
  18. Historiker

    Historiker Dramamine Adict Gold Contributor

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    pink p40 2.jpg If you print a p-40 it would be scale color :grin

    This one is in a museum not far from where I live.
    • Like Like x 2
    • Funny Funny x 1
    Historiker, Dec 20, 2016
    #98
  19. Artois

    Artois New Member

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    This is the 3D printer I was referring to. A Prusa orginal is a little out of my current price range. I figured I would start with sometihng like this and then I would like to build a D-BOT in the future. Is there anything with this particular model that should worry me?

    www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LACBFDW/ref=s9_dcacsd_dcoop_bw_c_x_2_w
    Artois, Dec 22, 2016
    #99
  20. Nick Moxley

    Nick Moxley Well-Known Member

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    The First 2 star review should answer a lot of your questions. I would save up for a better unit.
    • Useful Useful x 1
    Nick Moxley, Dec 22, 2016
    #100
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