Showroom My 3 DOF seat mover + GS-4 + Simvibe

yes sure.
sorry.
Sometimes I don't know if is better open a new thread for my questions or write my doubt or questions in some other thread where i read the same topic.
I'm a bad forum member in this way and it is right that when mistakes pull my ears.
sorry again

The GS-4 is 17.5 inches wide. It is a custom Kirkey 16 series https://www.kirkeyracing.com/product/10/16800/SEAT-ALUMINUM-17.5-ECONOMY-DRAG

Sorry, I gave away all my old gear to my friends who couldn't afford proper gear.

@gigi I will post some info over in your new thread

Hi Avenga76
Thanks for your support. I've just created a new thread
https://www.xsimulator.net/community/threads/90zyt-155-12-mcp4-60-1-and-jrk-12v12.9662/

@Avenga76 your rig is pinned/sticked. One of the most exciting simulators ever built (on xsimulator.net ).
Thanks @noorbeast for your suggestion.

Thanks!!! It has come a long way over these last few years, it has been a really fun project.

Question about he g-seat, do the pads feel like they push on the entire side of your body (whole panel making contact) or does it mainly apply pressure to one area?

You feel it through the whole panel. The ones underneath push on your outer thighs and the ones on the back press against the side of your back. Feels much like it would if you were getting pushed in to the seat with G Forces. It would also differ with different body sizes. The seat is a good size for me but if you were skinny then the contact points might be different.

I read this whole thread the other night. I now have no idea whats happening on the show the missus and I were watching on netflix but totally worth it. How many hours do you reckon have gone into building this work of art?

Thanks, It would be countless hundreds of hours all up. All up I have been building my rig for the last 3 years.

You sure dont build monster rigs like we do Unless you passionate about the hobby and love to tinker.

Hey guys.

Finally getting around to upgrading my controllers and motors.

As many of you know I have always struggled to run my 5300 RPM motors on the JRK's so I had to downgrade to some 4,300 RPM motors.

I have been meaning to build a new upgraded controller box and switch back to the 5,300 RPM motors.

I decided to use a Sabertooth 2X60 for my seat mover, and a SyRen 50 for my traction loss. The Sabertooth 2X60 is 60A continuous and 120A peak per channel, and the SyRen 50 looks like it is just a single channel Sabertooth capable of 50A continuous and 100A peak.

They both are regenerative motor drivers so they should work really well with my battery setup.

I got the motor controller yesterday and boy do they look awesome. Really well engineered, they look like they are built like a tank.

They are actually really good value for money compared to the JRK, they actually work out a bit cheaper, JRK's are $99 each, and you would need 2 for a seat mover, and 1 Sabertooth 2x60 is only $189 and then $8 for an Arduino. So roughly the same price but you get 4-5 times the power.

So these are the 2 motor drivers. The SyRen 50 on the left and the Sabertooth 2x60 on the right



The Sabertooth 2X60 comes with a chunky heatsink and huge screw terminals



The caps on the other side are glued to the heatsink so they ain't going anywhere



It also has a full metal base with thermal compound between the board and the base plate



And the SyRen also has really chunky screw terminals



The caps are smaller one this one so they aren't glued but they tuck in nicely between the heatsinks.



Again, it has a full metal base which is connected to the heatsinks on the side.



These thinks are huge, here they are next to a Monster Moto for comparison.



I am really impressed with the Sabertooth and SyRen, they look like a proper piece of kit.

Also brought some more 5,300 RPM motors.



I will be selling off my old motors and controller box to a local Kiwi who is building his own motion simulator. He came up today to try out my rig and loved it so he will buy my whole controller box with the JRK's as well as the 4,300 RPM motors, so I will be pretty much starting again from scratch.

So it will be my Motion 2.0 "Max Power Edition"

I will probably 3D print my controller box this time around.

I have started planning my new motion controller box. I found a cardboard box which is about the right size so I bolted everything in place.

I still need to find a home for the relay and I will be using a smaller terminal strip for the control circuit. So the box will be a bit bigger when it is 3D printed. And I want to have modular sides that I can swap out.

Still need to figure out how I want to do all the wiring.

Started work on the CAD for my motion controller box.

I have made it with removable side panels so I can swap them out for different panels if I like. It is totally modular so I have a vent panel, fan panel, Arduino panel, and I still need to design the I/O panel.

I still need to design the platform for the relay and control circuit.

You can view the controller box in 3D in the Fusion 360 web viewer here http://a360.co/2iFSHjH

I still have to do all the mounts for the boards, the cool thing about the web viewer is that it automatically updates every time I save a change so you can check back later to see my progress.

A bit more progress.

On the design side I have finished the upper platform for the control circuit, and I have also finished the relay bracket, and the back panel with all of the cable glands

Here is a picture but you can check it out in 3D here http://a360.co/2iFSHjH



Here are some pictures of the relay bracket printed







In other design news I have decided that I am going to include a window on the top cover so you can see inside and see all the motor controllers and all the cool design work, so I went and brought a 195x195x3mm red perspex sheet which would be perfect for a window on the top, as the box is 240x210. I also brought some white LED strips so I will have them on the inside of the lid, lighting up the inside of the box.

I wanted to take a little break from the design work and finish off a little idea I had for the wiring on the Arduino, I didn't want to use just the standard headers and jumper leads on the Arduino so I went and got me a prototype shield so I could make my own circuit.

I went for some nice 3 pin 90 degrees latching headers for POTS, and a 2 pin 90 degrees latching header for the wires down to the motor drivers.



The first thing I had to do was remove the stupidly long stackable header pins so I could get it nice and low

This was it before.



Now it nice an low and sleek



Next up was to do all my wiring under the boards. I drew out my cable runs before I started so I could make sure they looked really sweet and had no cross overs or anything.



It all sites perfectly flush with the board so there is plenty of room under the lowered Arduino



Tomorrow I will build the other circuit board. That one will be easier because it only has the one POT on it.

Finished the second circuit board. This one was a lot simpler, a few of them I could just bridge with solder or use a really short wire because I could get it close to the 5V power and ground.



Top side only has two connectors as this one is for my rear traction loss motor.



This is the underside of both boards, really pleased with how they turned out. I kept all the colour codes and pin outs the same for both boards



This is the top side, how they will sit in the case. The pots wires will exit the case on the left side, and the 2 pin connectors go down to the motor controllers below.



All done they are super slim, only barely thinner than a standard Arduino and much slimmer and neater than using standard header jumper wires.



I also changed up the power system a bit. I wasn't happy trying to double up some of the big battery cables in to the terminal strips so I swapped out for some power distribution posts and then went down to some smaller terminal strips for the smaller wires going to the motors.



These are the power distribution posts I am using, except I removed the bridging plate. I am having heaps of fun modelling all these parts in 3D in CAD. Really helps of have it all spaced out virtually so I can move things around before making all the mounts for everything.



This is an idea of how the wiring will look. The wires with arrows are going up to the relay. The smaller wire going off to the fuse at the top is for the relay coil and the thicker wire is the main power going off to the relay.

I have been out of town the last few days so not too much more progress.

Printed out a few test pieces of my controller box to make sure my measurements were correct, the suppliers dimensions were quite far off. Like the terminal strip says the bolt spacing should be 15mm when in reality it is 14.4mm



Also had to measure this one by hand



Tested my modular removable side panels



They just slot in to place, it is slightly ajar



It's a bit hard to see when printed in black plastic but you can see the little grooves that the side panels slot in to



Finished most of my stand offs and mounting brackets



I went with my standard captive hex nuts from below



Also played around with a new way of attaching the lid, side slot captive hex nuts.



The nut slides in to a little slot on the side of the controller box



And this is a cross section of how it looks inside

Love it buddy....keep it up.

diggin the little side nut jobby. Props on that one.

Thanks Nick.

I am really loving that new side nut method. It is really strong, I did a little strength test and I tightened it as hard as I could and nothing happened. A million times stronger than 3D printed threads and I would say it is stronger than a threaded insert. Really easy to design also, the only problem is that it needs to be near an edge so you can slide the nut in there. Other than that, it is a really good way of running captive hex nuts. I will be using more in the future.

Agreed, when its not visually important, a side nut would be vastly stronger than a Knurled insert, Tho its not often you need that kinda holding power/strength in a single fixture point. I look forward to seeing this new box all wired up in your style. Keep it up.