Showroom Started ordering stuff... Countdown to 2DOF build.

also just found if you have an error with the skin that comes up before the game even loads

then u need to go to the car folder then skins open ui_skin.json with notepad and and change something for example the corvette C6r I have a before and after to see the difference

before
{
"skinname": "73",
"drivername": "Franklin Stegink",
"country": ,
"team" : "Corvette Racing",
"number": 73
}



after
{
"skinname": "73",
"drivername": "Franklin Stegink",
"country": "SWE",
"team" : "Corvette Racing",
"number": 73
}

the format was wrong

hope this helps

Enjoyed reading your adventure building this rig Archie, looks bloody awesome ! downloaded your vids and particularly enjoy the pCars one. I have both pCars as early backer and AC and just this week started back into AC and must say it has improved heaps. I run an Oculus Rift and pCars was always much better on the Rift but now AC has caught up and is just as good ! cheers mate

Oohh... An Oculus Rift.... So tempted to get one.....

I am reading your post and have the similar setup but not sure what a NC block is? and where can i find one? Amazon

These are for the exact unit i have as seem in the picture you linked, not 100% sure if they work with other styles.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Normally-C...383745?hash=item33c1a89801:g:kL4AAOSwcLxYDjEi

NC just stands for Normally Closed whereas NO would be Normally Open. It's referring to whether the switch contacts are made (closed) or broken (open) in the button unpressed state.

but this refering to? relays? it wasn't clear what they where speaking of.
ive examined the photos of how to set up a kill switch and am i supposed to hook up the relay.................. idk? trial and error. i have a 10 amp kill switch but the photos show the killswitch hooked to a 30 amp? think i will go ahead and get a 15 amp relay and look into a way. to tired and the middle of the night. im done for the night. time for sleep ... thanks for the info.

If using relays or contactors (contactors are simply big relays designed for higher currents) then you would usually use NO contacts. That is to say that when the coil is deenergised (unpowered) the contacts are open circuit. To power your system you would apply current to the coil which then closes the contacts. You can wire an emergency stop button in series with the coil and having a NC contact. So that when the button is pressed this opens the contacts of the push button and thus removes power from the coil causing the power to be removed from the system.
Depending on your system and the design of your control circuit you might be able to safely kill all power using just the E-stop button if it is rated for the load current.

Hmmm i have my 30 amp psu connected to a recharge battery backup station with a kill switch on that. i have a control panel with i can individually control the power to each motor with a switch panel. which is between the fuse box and the power from the arduino and the two moto monsters on the hot side. i have built this control panel with a off/on switch and a kill button installed but havent hooked it up as of yet.when i turn off the switchs the power is removed to the motors . i have only the arduino to control power from the control panel. i have found a usb kill button for that . to be implemented soon.
just wondering if i need to have this kill button for the psu? maybe not.

Don't limit your considerations to what might go wrong if the Arduino were to command the motors to do the wrong thing or the game became to violent requiring you to estop suddenly. But also consider things like an electrical fault such as the motor driver failing permanently on and the Arduino having no control over this. Would you still be able to stop the motors?

With industrial control systems it is often the case that there is an immediate stop button. This is a normal looking red button that will stop the cycle fast but in a controlled way. Thus making restart easier.
And there is the E-stop button which is instantly recognisable with its easy to press mushroom head and clear labelling which instantly removes all power. This is often more difficult to reset because power is removed suddenly and the control system has no say over where things end up. It's function is to protect life or prevent damage to the machine.

good point. maybe your right. seems kind of daunting of the goal ahead, guess thats why im kinds hesitant . if there were a clear and concise direction i could go on getting this accomplished then im all in . i have a 30 amp psu with i would guess 12 amp wiper motors that came from a cheay truck.
i am running duel motos on a single arudino pulling 120 volts of a wall socket. im telling you this is because i dont know kind of relay i should get and where i would instal it? between the wall outlet and the psu?

I do not have anything built yet, just a pile of parts that is steadily growing.
There is a useful resource here regarding design considerations for kill switch wiring... https://www.xsimulator.net/community/faq/emergency-stop-switch-wiring.56/

For my own system I am contemplating using a reversing contactor to apply power from the motor drivers to the motors. This way I should be able to DC brake the motor and stop as abruptly as possibly with no coasting.... https://electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/16654/braking-a-dc-brushed-motor
Obviously I'd need to test that a reversing contactor would do the trick but in theory it should work.