Showroom DX - Compact Simulator

Hi @noorbeast do you recall the wall thickness of your aluminum square tubing for the parts that deal with the wheel and pedals?
Was at a shop with some and 1/8 inch wall 1" square tubing and putting over 200lbs of sheer force at various angles it wasn't bending with a 4ft length. 1/16 wall had did have some give. That being said, I wasn't replicating what a high torque direct drive wheel might be doing on top such a thin shaft, so curious what your wall thickness was.

Gauge/metric measurements are fine of course

Contemplating 2" up to the wheel support and then going to 1" to the pedals.

First, thanks for the last reply, I'm not sure how saying "thanks" as a reply work with regards to forum rules so I usually just rate your replies (and others) thumbs up/informative mark/etc...maybe I should ask for clarification on this in the "Forum and Website" section, as I'm always thankful!

Anyway
Here's the link that post:
https://www.xsimulator.net/community/threads/dx-compact-simulator.5866/#post-61899

I'm curious how you secured the aforementioned tube, I thought you'd welded it until I read further down - so I was contemplating a longer tube that protruded beyond the walls slightly to hold itself in place to serve the same bushing purpose.

However now am wondering, since you didn't weld it - did you just fit in a longer tube and cut it flush with the walls from the outside so that it remains "secured?" Or...??? Thanks in advance!

Don't sweat it. As long as you're not oviously posting in order to get more coins in a hurry you'll be fine and you don't even need more atm.

Thank you!

Looking at the image below, zoomed in - along with other images of the plate mounted to the top of the tube, I'm not sure how you made/configured the plate mount to connect with the top of the tube.




Upon zooming (since no welding) the only thing I could think of is 3 L brackets working together around the center post:

That being said...I'm not fixated on square/rectangle tubing, as I have more ideas available to make a telescoping center post, such as set screw collars and quick release bolts/fasteners that I can't find for square tubing.
For instance down at the bottom where the center post meets the pedal tube and chair tube...could use a Ubracket to direct a static upright round tube...or base plates with "flange" for rectangle or round.

Thanks again...just thought of inverting a square tube flange so the square part is in the tube, drill through that and then the bottom of the flange is could serve as the plate itself, not sure, late night here, take care!

Maybe...not stainless, just grabbed the first image...

Hi @noorbeast - Season's greetings - quite a few more questions for ya

1) On the first page of this thread your final feet look wider/fatter. Did you upgrade to wider?

2) Is it true that your design distributes the entire weight down to the 6 feet (plus 2 below the center post)?

3) are those 2 feet attached to that baseplate only or through the baseplate and to the center post?

4) Am I seeing that the center post and all other components are weighted upon the "base plate," with the center post's L brakets distributing weight along the inner rails only?

Saw an old post where someone questioned the stability while search for keyword "feet" in this thread. I'm trying to figure out how you designed a way to thread the 50x50 square tube for the feet...

5) was it similar to the motor mount supports you created, but then expanded upon as guessed below?



6) Why did you elevate the rig above the feet that distancet anyway - rather than have the frame lower to the ground?
Was it to so the power supplies and other components inside would be flush with the top of the 50x50 tubes so the awesome looking, carbon fiber top could go on top?

7) Not so much a question
When I first began delving into this, I actually didn't realize how you appear to "float" on four (or six ) feet, as was so fixated on certain aspects of your/other designs and some alterations I was brewing up...
Basically, I was thinking of having the baseplate much lower than yours, practically siting on the floor. However I'd still use anti vibration feet, just not "suspending" the entire rig so "high". It'd be more like having some rubber feet on the ground and plopping the rig on top.

If on carpet, it would sink in, whereas yours would be riding safe and high. I'm not sure if what I'm thinking to do would matter on carpet though.
If on hardwood, the baseplate and rig would be sitting strong upon the anti vibration feet.

@noorbeast You once stated,

...I'd worked with metal before in the past...but this is a totally different level. Pretty sure I'll expand on that statement when I start my build thread soon...

Am going forward just to finish a static rig base design and continue to learn by experimentation, but look forward to your thoughts (as well as others of course!)

Cheers

Thank you, thank you, thank you
Really going to mull over the whole thing here. Why would I use an entire 500mmx500mm plate when I could shrink it down and just do what you did. Got to question the purpose of adding more weight to the whole thing, even though it'd be the bottom...hmmmmmm

Same thing is happening to me, with your design included

Just thinking out loud....and sure there are more pros and cons
Pros

• it would be low enough to the ground where I could move the center post as shown in the attached pic, to alter between full frame and seat shaker style
  
• could have the center post braced directly to the plate as well as rails/frame but how's this a pro if mounting to the frame and rails works as yours does
• maybe smaller bolt sizes for the frame since the frame wouldn't be the main support system

Cons and Unknowns

• Possibly too low as you mentioned regarding leaving clearance for the lever
• since that possibility, would have to come up with a way to make sure it doesn't happen!
  
• 500mmx500mm base plate significantly weightier than using your design

This is the way I've been thinking of approaching it...edited one of your pics to help the diagram hopefully make more sense

edit:somehow double posted image
edit 2: fixed the a/b labels had full frame and shaker labeled wrong

should have clarified that the post would be swapped with quick release bolts, in B, the seat shaker only position, sideways L brackets mounted to the front of the 50mm*50mm square tubing would be the proposed method of securing the wheel/pedals unit

In addition, the pedal bar will be adjustable up and down to various degrees, to accommodate the switch and possible F1 style seating in an future design change.

Your wonderful work gives me good experience.And this is a very practical solution for a compact space.

Good, @noorbeast how do those engines work? Do they have strength? What relationship do you use? Do you have any game on the shaft? forgive for the questions that are looking for some engines hehe

regards

ok thank you very much for answering, are you going to 24V or 12V? what about the dead zone of the axis I do not think it's a problem

@noorbeast
I have been very intrigued by your Tilt Control Mechanism adaption for adding the heave axis.
I am building a new chair and I am going to incorporate your idea.

My question is how much throw is available on your mechanism (approximate is fine)