DD-Wheel with Hoverboard Motor

Maybe there is an alternative to the IHM08M1.
@RSP found a nice board with very good value for money from ST. Includes high performance MCU and 3 phase motor driver. Unfortunately suppliers are out of stock for that board too. But lead time is just 4 weeks.

The only alternatives you have is to use a (car)battery. It will swallow the overvoltage quite well or Overvoltage protection diodes, but I'm not sure about if they will handle the current. I have ordered some of these to another project I'm working on, so I might test and see if they are strong enough.
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32831483437.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.302a4c4d41o9RB

Thanks for the quote @Benu for the holes in the Hoverboard shell is possible without any problem I make some holes in front the body for attach a wheel rim and back for lower temperature. I'm not at home when I'll go back I make some pictures for explain better my setup. For the encoder I think that the best solution is the AS5311 https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/ams/AS5311-TS_EK_AB/AS5311-AB-ND/3828353 that have the best value quality/price because is possible to arrive at high resolution with a 128 multipole magnetic ring. The problem is how to buy this ring I find on internet hsmagnet and sp-magnets in this week I try to sent an email for receive the product. The board that I find is this: https://www.digikey.com/products/en?keywords=b-g431b-esc1 according to Benu that I am very extremely grateful for the help that I give to me for set the board it work for a DD wheel the problem like the IHM08 is the availability and the interface to a STM32 or Arduino solution for forcefeedback.

Yes, that's the board I have. Unfortunately they don't sell it with a magnetic ring. AMS calls it AS5311-TS_EK_AB. You need to print or build a fixture to attach it to the wheel shaft. I used 6mm epoxy sheet and build an L-shaped fixture (no 3D printer). Used dual tack to glue the board to the fixture.

There are some bad and good news on the interface part.
I installed the new ST MC SDK and generated the ST standard code for the ESC1. The bad news is, PWM input code is completely missing from that code. Maybe that is an error on ST side.
The good news, I think I can reuse my code and make the PWM input working in 0-50-100 mode. The ESC1 can then be controlled directly from MMOS. I am not sure if the Arduino has 0-50-100 mode so that might be usable too. Not having an ESC1 at hand somebody else has to do the testing though.
I checked the MCU pin connections and there may be a way to use PWM+DIR too. We need to sacrifice one of the other signal solder pads for that.

Being that board an ESC made for drones could not be possible in the end to use any ESC (bidirectional BTW, many are not)?
There are many examples on the web of how to interface them with an arduino

The problem with most ESCs is, they are pre-programmed for speed mode like the one mentioned above. Unlike the other ESCs there are manuals and a development environment for the B-G431C-ESC1. So we can try to re-program it for torque mode and interface it to MMOS/Arduino FFB firmware.

Do you use STM32CubeIDE or STM32CubeMx+ Atollic Truestudio? For the interface with the ffb controller to the ESC is possible to use the UART or CAN interface on the board?

I switched to STM32CubeIDE as ST MC SDK release notes say TrueStudio cannot build G431 projects.
Why would you want to use CAN or UART if you can use native output of MMOS/Arduino?

Do you think that with only one input with the PWM 0-50-100 is possible to obtain the same result of PWM+DIR?

I just implemented and checked PWM 0-50-100 with the IHM08M1. I don't feel any difference while driving.

The holes for attach the steering wheel and the holes in the back for better heat dissipation:
https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1uMgO4jQtODgdC1coZhidp4nca4ZxFpj8?usp=sharing

The quick release that I buy on Amazon for only € 20 for the steering wheel:
https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1GrJNwa63Ly2ymggpzxNzYM95eiXmt58q?usp=sharing

For time considerations I solder all the wire of the board next week then I'll try with the PWM 0-50-100

Well I think that the last board found by @RSP and the chance by @Benu to have it controlled stright by MMOS would made the final best solution.
It seems you are very close to the goal and this is really great.

I confess that in my developement I am experiencing all my lack of knowledge in electronic.
If you sort it out I would be happy to jump to a working solution with the B-G431B-ESC1.

About the board availability I found it is in stock here : https://www.rutronik24.com/product/st/b-g431b-esc1/12797667.html

Will you try with an encoder attached?

Unfortunately the website says they are selling to corporate customers and organisations only.

Unfortunately not because the next week I'll receive the cable and do the soldering. I'll keep you update.

Haven't time to work with this right now, but did some kind of progress yesterday. I find out that the current measure didn't work that good after all with the ACS712, but with some luck, I kind of made it work quite well by doing 5 AD samples and take the highest value from that. It also seems that the overvoltage protection diodes solved my Power Supply trips. At least I haven't been able to make it trip. I'm still not sure if my loop is quick enough. If I driving slowly and turn the wheel very fast repeatedly right-left, I can feel like a small clearance like when you have a bad steering gear. Actually what keeping me not using this wheel for the moment instead of the MY1020, is that it went more noisily now. Perhaps because I don't have the 0.2 Ohm shunt anymore. I found a new board on Aliexpress that I ordered today which might be perfect for this application.
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/329...chweb0_0,searchweb201602_4,searchweb201603_53

Do use them as clamping diodes?
Where did you place them and what diodes do you use?

Yesterday I receive the board with the cable soldered andthi morning I try the motor with the encoder attached. The result is not positive I send a video to @Benu for try a solution. We will keep you update.

Sorry for the late reply. I'm working away from home now every week, so there is not much time for my hobbies right now. I'm using the P6KE18CA and It's placed just over the power supply lines. I ordered it for another project a while ago. I think 15 Volts (this are 18) will suite even better.

Thanks for your input!
I checked the IHM08M1. It has a SMBJ48A-TR. That makes sense as the board is rated from 8V - 48V.
So a P6KE15(C)A to protect the 12V power supply would make sense.