DIY FFB Steering wheel (MMosFFB ) (In Progress)

What are you running on the Arduino? Do you have more info about your rig? Wiring? Do you have an encoder connected?
What power supply is that?

Im using emc software and wiring is the same that ebolzmagy showed in his emc video. Yes i have connected encoder. I use 24v 10 amp power supply

Can you see the wheel turning in the EMC software when you manually turn the motor?
If you center the wheel before you activate “simple spring”, does it do the same?

If you set “max force” to 20%, does it stop?
Looks like you have the 350-500W motor? 350/24=15A. Maybe 100% force is too much for your psu?

Capacitors, may be added to the power supply, to fight that. As well as with Flyback diodes. But it is an option with good bts chips.
https://www.xsimulator.net/community/threads/diy-mosfet-h-bridge-driver.13286/page-3#post-183459

Also what bts chips do you have, GAG523? Check that markings.

And.
One BTS is not enough for this motors with 24 volts power. Add one more if wanna stay with 24volts. But better put a 12V psu on them.

I have 250 power supply and 250w motor. How many capacitors should I use?

I would suggest that you try to find what is causing this behavior before you try to fix it with capacitors.
Have you tried setting the max force lower?

If the PSU shuts down, it's due to ripple currents, with heavy inductance motors. Someone just puts a subwoofer caps on 1-4farads and all goes well. I prefere to put ordinary caps, even though have also that subcap on 4farads connected. And to be sure, the extra freewheeling diodes too. All info in the linked thread.
Very important the markings of the bts chips. Not all of'em are good really. Even though all can be connected in a right way in your build. Don't be in a rush and check everything properly. And read attentively the info over this matter already given.

You may also have a look.
https://zeva.com.au/Projects/Speedy/

https://www.xsimulator.net/community/threads/diy-mosfet-h-bridge-driver.13286/page-2#post-181516

https://www.drivingitalia.net/index...o-stm32/page/144/&tab=comments#comment-884319

Wheel doesnt turn when i turn motor.
Yes it does the same
No matter what i set, it still do this 'jump'

My bts7960 chip is GAC633

Must be allright.

Have you had any progress?
Do you have some pictures of the setup? How did you attach the encoder?

Could you write a small test sketch for the arduino and test the motor and driver that way first?

It is useless and so on, to make that. )

Why would it be useless to find out if the motor or BTS is the problem?

Chris, that's not the way.

Can you be a bit more specific perhaps?

Why be specific with obvious.

He've got everything what is needed to build and check and determine. I don't get why he had'n linked the encoder and the motor though, but if even so, the motor should only rotate with no problem for the system, with normal psu. Without going to protection or short circuit. It's all the same if try to connect an ordinary PS PSU to this wheels builds. It shuts down until restarted. (as was mentioned before without subcaps, from Italian site, added to power supply in parallel). I connected the PS PSU in the very first tests there too, and guess what, all the same as that behavior. The PSU shuts down going to protection. Why, and due to what already was mentioned.

Looks like you have the 350-500W motor? 350/24=15A. Maybe 100% force is too much for your psu?

If simply put again, tested build with MY1025 250W motor, two power supplies. 150W (12v/12.5A) & 400W (12v/33.3A). The later (400W) got the protection no matter what, until, added the caps and diodes. And I can melt that motor down with this hardware set up, without going in PSU shut down protection any more with full power) And particular with diy driver that was made too. All the same for the 150W PSU, but it's more a transformer based type one, and do not recall the protective shutdowns with it.

My advice to nopilpl, in simple terms without going info caps etc, to find another power supply. (with big transformer inside, not the inverter type). Or find a low junk powerfull transformer and build a good rectifier to it. Or build an additional caps and even diodes to the one he had. Or to test it again, using a small motor. But not the 770 type like, just simple toy car small dc motors. For the sake of a test and to make a sense for those who needs it) .

P.s. Have got an example with a sketch to test the encoder, until got the info on the pull up resistors to encoder channels, in order to make it work, so that was useless test too with sketch, in the initial terms )

Simply know better "the nuts and bolts")

Simply because things that are obvious to you is not always obvious to everyone else.
There is absolutely no need to be rude Sieben.

There you go!
#humblebrag

Hi
Sorry for not writing but I didnt had much free time. I connected everything like you showed @Sieben but encoder stopped working. When i connect those diodes and capacitors, encoder doesnt work. Encoder starts working when i disconnect those diodes and caps.
Thanks for help,

nopilpl they have no relation to the encoder and it's work at all, if smth.....

Can show the picture of the caps and diodes you supposedly had assembled over there?

Ok, i just connected encoder to other power supply and it works. I connected 4 caps like you but the motor still 'jumps'. Should i use more caps? Ofc im using those diodes.
Thanks for help

nopilpl do you have a picture?