Question Need help with a DD DIY Wheel I'm planning to build

EDIT: I've changed plans, gonna change to a DD wheel with a MY1016 12V 350W motor and direct drive. Most likely gonna retain a lot of parts except for the pulleys.

Hey guys, I'm new here and have spent the last week reading lots and lots of posts about creating a sim wheel, I've compiled a list of parts along with their prices I could find them for online in my country(Malaysia), and I've decided on a belt driven wheel that I plan to upgrade to a Direct Drive in the future. Here's my part list, I'll post my questions under the part list. Hope you guys can help.

Motor = MY1020 24v 500w Rm180+
Microprocessor = Stm32f4 Rm70+
STLink V2 for flashing firmware = Rm15-30
Rotary Encoder = IP2770 Printer Encoder Rm10-15
Analog input for shifter and pedals = Potentiometer x5 Rm6
Motor Drivers = BTS7960 Rm40
Power Supply = Not sure, server psu
Bearing for shaft = Pillow block, Need 2, not sure about what diameter but they're around Rm10 for a pair
Pulley system for torque reduction = Not sure
XT60 Connector for PSU = Rm3 for male and female

Total is Rm354+Shipping costs(Roughly 85USD plus shipping fees) without the mechanical stuff yet which I plan to source locally.

My question's are:
1. What PSU should I use? I've seen people here use a 12v Server PSU, is 12v enough since I'm using a 24v motor?

2. What would you recommend for the torque reduction ratio? I was reading that people use 1:4 and also 1:6, would really like to know your opinions

3. Should I upgrade to a 36v 500w MY1020? It's another Rm60(15 USD) compared to the 24v

4. If I were to add a second IBT-2 driver for the motor along with a SN7407N Non Inverting Buffer to support the second driver, would I need to modify the PSU specs? For example, instead of a 12v psu, I would need to change it to a 24v PSU(if that exists)

5. Do I need a button box? Can I just use my keyboard and mouse for digital input?

6. Since I'm making a wheel, of course I will need a shifter along with pedals. I plan on using 5 Potentiometers for this, 3 for pedals and 2 for the shifter, will I need more Microprocessors for this?

7. What diameter of pillow block bearings should I buy? I saw some from 10mm to 50mm I think

8. What connectors should I use for the Analog input to the Stm32? I saw someone using some kind of 6 pin connectors but I don't know the name, he called it cb6 pin connector but searching cb6 doesn't show me anything regarding that name, but I found 6 pin din connectors but I am not sure if they're the name ones.

9. Will I need any resistors? I saw some people saying pull up and pull down resistors and I have no idea what that is or means.

I believe that's all the questions for now, thank you for reading this incredibly long post
I'll respond to the replies as soon as possible, feel free to discuss amongs yourselves as I work a 12 hour job on the weekdays.

1. 12v will be fine for a 24v motor.

2. Either ratio will be fine, as long your main goal is not drifting.

3. Not sure, I've only used 24v motors

4. If you add another bts, you won't need to change the PSU. You only need to change the PSU if the motor is too large for the PSU and it's trying to draw more power than the PSU can give.

5. The button box is just for convenience, so that's just personal preference.

6. Just one arduino Leonardo should be ok for three analogue outputs. I think it can take a few more to be honest. The only thing is, I don't think you can use potentiometers for shifters. The shifters need to be digital input and potentiometers give an analogue output.

7. 10mm will be ok. I used an 8mm threaded rod for a long time, in my early build. It would flex slightly but it'll be ok.

8. Not quite sure, but DuPont cables are pretty versatile.

9. The resistors are mainly used to connect the live wire of your encoder to the digital wires of your encoder, depending on which encoder you use. Two 10k resistors should be fine.

Btw my comments are just from my own trial and error experiences over the last 2.5 years. I'm no expert in electronics/electrics. Lol

Sadly ebay is rarely used in my country, I have alternatives but they're kinda expensive. What kind of psu specs would you recommend? I was wondering is 12v and 360w is enough

Hey man, just saw your reply, thank you so much for taking the time to reply, after reading up some more, I found out that someone made a DD wheel with a 24v 350w MY1016, so I'm switching to that for now, I think I'll edit the title so it's direct drive instead.
I have some follow up questions.

1. How about the wattage? I was thinking of going for a 1000w 12v Transformer that I found online, it was the cheapest I could find for such a big wattage rating

6. This isn't really a question, but I saw someone do it online. It was around the 20:00 minute mark I think he explains it, make sure you have the subs on


8. I meant connectors, not wires, but still good to know what wires I should get. Would you happen to know or advise the type of connecters I should use to make things more modular?

9. I seeee, thank you so muchhhh

stm32 will cover everything....3 pedal, xy shifter, digital input...



in that video i use 3 microcontroller because i use a lot of button and function...

if u just need basic function, stm32 will cover everything...

QUOTE="ahoenksiluman, post: 188875, member: 27955"]stm32 will cover everything....3 pedal, xy shifter, digital input...



in that video i use 3 microcontroller because i use a lot of button and function...

if u just need basic function, stm32 will cover everything...[/QUOTE]
Oh, it's you!
Nice videos man! I hope my PSU will be enough for DD
I still haven't figured out where to get all the mechanical parts but I am in a mechatronics college currently so hopefully they can help me out. I saw that there was a cnc shop nearby as well, I will check them out for fabricating parts

where do you come from? don't hesitate to update your profile information

I'm from Malaysia
Good idea, I'll do that right now

greetings from 10000 km away

U can read this thread on the DD with MY1020. Pretty much informative.

https://www.drivingitalia.net/index...ante-direct-drive-con-arduino-stm32/#comments

6. Pots are used there with there "mapping" with ease for h-shifter.
9. 10k are too big. Depends from where you feed the push/pull voltage to the signal channels. Better use just 200-500 ohms from the 5v of the controller board.

I see, thanks

6. What are pots?

9. Would it be dangerous to test it with 10k in case those numbers don't work?

Faisal Nyan, pots all the same name for potentiometers)

9. No danger at all, simply will fail to read the signal. Just take that 200-500 ohms, and it will be really fine.

Thank you my dude
Say, would a 2000P/R no name E6B2-CWZ6C Rotary Encoder be okay for this? Also, not really sure how I would mount it to the Motor, I've seen someone drill the back of the motor and made a mount for something similar but I don't know if I could do that

If you've not purchased the motor yet. I'd consider the MY1020 rather than the MY1016. I've not tried mounting an encoder directly to a motor but I imagine it'll be easier to drill the back of a 1020. The back looks removable and quite thin.
The 1016 doesn't seem to be removable and is quite thick. Don't think it'd be easy to drill.

Also if you're going direct drive, the largest 1016 that I used was 350w and burned out after about four months. Even with two cooling fans. So did the 250w before that. And I was only using it as a belt drive, so I was using it at a way lower power than got would need for direct drive.

I'd say the 350w will give sufficient enough torque for direct drive. However it won't last long. From my experience, you really need to run these motors no more than 40% to avoid overheating and premature failure.

MY1016 is really not the best choice for dd.

I see, I'll do that then o.o

There will be overheating issues if I use one? o.o

Would a 36v 500w MY1020 Be good, or should I go for the 1000w?

I think that decision is going to be based on what you're looking for from a direct drive wheel.
If you're looking for high amounts of torque and have the budget, go for the 1000w. At least you know that you can't go any higher then.
If you're on a tight budget and maybe you're making a wheel because you just want that "direct" ffb feeling and the torque doesn't matter. Then go for the 500w.

My belt drive 500w only gets warm after running it at about 40% for over an hour. So I think I've finally hit the sweet spot. I can't be certain as I've not tried but I reckon I'd still get a decent feeling using it as a direct drive at 40%. So maybe you should probably go for the 36w 500w. You'll probably be satisfied.

The only other thing you'd need to consider is the amount of drivers that you'll need. I think you'll need a MINIMUM of 3x BTS drivers in parallel. This caused me issues before I found a better driver. As when one fails, it's a pain the arse trying to figure out which one has failed. It was for me at least.