Question Need help with a DD DIY Wheel I'm planning to build

Do you have any cooling on your system? I was thinking of just using 1 bts driver, because apparently its enough. For me, I plan on playing for hours on end, so hearing that it can only last an hour makes me sad haha

for safer use with MY motor, just use 20v or lower...it will generate less heat, but the torque and speed will be lower too...

https://www.drivingitalia.net/index...no-stm32/page/58/&tab=comments#comment-869689

Having used 12 volt power supplies instead of 24 has increased the torque a lot. A guy on another forum is using a 100 ampere and is about 6.5 nm (measured it) .. I myself feel it feel much more consistent.

https://www.drivingitalia.net/index...o-stm32/page/143/&tab=comments#comment-884253

Cip has repeatedly said to use 12V because you need as many amps as possible. Increasing the voltage should only increase the rotation speed and you do nothing about it.

You need starting torque, it is what guarantees acceleration behind the wheel and therefore makes it more responsive. Just to tell you, my motor is 48V but I feed it 12V.

a brushed motor more high voltage receives and more turns and generates torque. the downside is that the current rises more or less squared. result? very high starting absorptions that a common power supply cannot withstand.

both Manu79 and I myself have experienced the 24V, but I assure you that the best performances, both thermal and feedback, we have all had by returning to the use of 12-15vcc.

I tried several same sulfa motors, yes at 48 v they go very well, but they must have a regulation circuit with a system called softstart that limits the peak current at start, different from the use of an FFB steering wheel.

I use a 48vcc motor capable of starting absorption from 150A, 23cm long and 12cm in diameter with 20mm axis and 4 large brushes heavy 13kg, powered at 12v it does not turn very fast but keeps an enviable torque, it heats relatively little (and cooled by a 12cm fan) and driven by only 2 bts with a server power supply from 66A to 12.1Vcc (arduino leonardo use).

so after all that has been written you still insist on powering at 24v.

https://www.drivingitalia.net/index...o-stm32/page/162/&tab=comments#comment-897180

So, I managed to bring the power supply from 600W to 13.5V and I immediately noticed an increase in torque and I measured an increase in the power absorbed by the power supply! So the limiting factor is precisely the engine ...

Sorry to hijack the thread.

The timing belt on my build broke last night for the second time in a month. So I've decided to go to direct drive. The only problem is I can't figure it how to connect the wheel to motor shaft. Can anyone give a guide on how they did it?

I'm using a MY1020 500w. The largest part of the shaft is 12mm.
I've ordered a 12mm drivelock coupling but I'm concerned that it won't fit over the motor shaft.

I was planning on going to a machining place to get parts to be fabricated for this, so that I could use a modified boss kit on my motor with a cheap 14 inch wheel. Let me know how it feels by the way, the 500w motor. I found out that the 1kw version of the my1020 I can't afford.

I've seen a few people mentioning using a 12v and 80+A psu, but I can't find one above 60Amps and even then it's a low wattage

Chris Malcolm, that's why I decided it with chain drive from the very beginning

Depends, how and from what you can make it. Many different ways on it, among this forum too. I saw one guy make it like that in Russian sim community.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/12XV7c6wa1kmBsGXwm1irZ6SY2W9vjQlj/view?usp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/12BMMW6yf98wnmaLH6UF0Obc3k7W-WEEL/view?usp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/12IsoTVBWYxwvN8JLCVMrUp4lSdMdP1jM/view?usp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/12Qq4qipqxPOuBNyWXX1_xP02ryV3JZ4N/view?usp=sharing




Whatever and so on too.


Or, have a look on this shaft locking assemblies etc. and then made up your mind.

https://www.maedler.de/product/1643/spannsaetze-spannbuchsen-taperbuchsen

Take this "at least" finaly.

I don't understand

I.m. 12V60A psu. If you mean that it has of course it's 12 volts.
Bay the way, With MY1025, less powerful then 1016 version, and 1:3 gear ratio, it us absolutely satisfied specs with 12v12,5A. With 12v33A i recon only quick heat up of everthing. So, if not DD, you can regard such or about specs psu too.

I genuinely can't understand your English
And it is direct drive I plan to do

How many Watts?

What? motor? 250w.

36v 500w I think is my choice. 1kw too expensive

Thanks for the advice guys.

I do have one of these on order.

https://www.maedler.de/product/1643/spannsaetze-spannbuchsen-taperbuchsen

Just hoping it fits the shaft. Have 2x that I've used on a 20mm shaft previously and they grip perfectly. No signs of slipping.

While I'm waiting for the coupler to arrive, I'll create something else that should work, temporarily. So I'll be able to let you know early this week Faisal, if a 500w MY1020 motor is good enough to be used as a direct drive at about 40% capacity.

I have feeling that the direct feeling will make up for the lack of torque that I'm used to.

If it isn't enough, why not turn up the ffb percentage?

I've never owned a wheel before, I'm doing a DIY wheel mainly due to import costs in my country. For example, a G29 is Rm1300(Ringgit Malaysia) and a T300RS GT is Rm1500. From calculating my costs, it should be roughly Rm500 plus costs for mechanical parts, which I estimate will be less than Rm200 but not sure yet about that.

Running these motors at higher than 40-50%, even with cooling will kill the motor. I've had four die in the last three years, from overheating.
The first motor (90w) I used at 80%, died after a few months. The second motor (120w) I used at 60%, lasted longer but died. Third motor was 250w MY1016, that one had cooling and was running at 50%. Dead. Lol same with the 350w MY1016 I have. All dead after half a year, due to overheating.
The 500w MY1020 is the only motor I've had so far that's not got too hot after a session. But only when running at 40%.

I've seen some people make a heat sync, using cooper sheet. I'll probably try to do that, now I'm going direct drive, along with adding two cooling fans to the back of the motor. That should probably allow you to add another 10% of ffb.

You're making the right choice going diy though. Because when commercial wheels fail, you have to rely on customer service. Which can be hit and miss. And if the wheel is too old. The spares may no longer be available.

I see.. Alright then. What power supply are you running?

Chris Malcolm
I'd say, what power you used with those motors particulary too? )

1016 must be drilled for cooling air flow atleast, like the 1020 does. I saw one dude made up an air hose with air pump for his buggy to cool the thing down, and it worked for him. No use to stream just air on it generally.

Anyone got cad files or drawings for fabricating the mechanical parts?

Hey man, asking again in case you missed it, what power supply do you use? o.o