Showroom Sharo garazhas - DIY Joyrider with e-bike motors + traction loss

Thanks !! Too bad the g forces arent that big compared to DOF type rig because when you have a lot of angle you always lose some acceleration (speed). We tryed to design this rig to be as universal as possible, in the track it only uses about 30-50% of its angle, the rest is for extreme cases like fliping over or rolling. It also works very well in offroad when car in the game actually tilts at bigger angle. These absorbers are just an addon in effort to combat mechanical resonance so the rig wont resonate so much under breaking and accelerating. Side absorber is unknown origin but the one in the back is from KIA CEED. They were just laying around so we used them. But they dont look pretty so thats a little problem.

I understand your situation and appreciate your input. So big question when r u going to use VR with it as this is my goal a 360 rig hopefully. I designed a nice 3d printed model that does 360 in both the roll and picth directions both ways. It works but I am using two continuous rotation servos. I got it rigged up to a joystick at the moment and have also used a rotary encoder which gives me step by step control of it. I did try it with simtools but it started freaking out but kinda works. I will make a post about my rig shortly and put the files onto thingyerse if any one fancys making one. I will pop back from time to time to see how you are getting on with your rig and see if there are any new videos.

Havent done a lot recently. Fixed few alignment issues with monitors, seat and steering wheel, everything was of center and didnt feel right. Bigger problem I had to deal with was pedals, the one that came with our wheel (T500 Rs) are quite nice, they can be inverted so thats the first thing I did with them, it give more "profesional" look to all rig. The problem was that the foot platform below pedals was to high and there was no way to adjust it so I straight forward just removed half of the pedals (the bottom part) and made my own, I also added option to further adjust pedal tilt to really fine tune it to perfection. I also have to think of some plate that covers everything and gives flat surface for your heels to rest. I will probably just cut a sheet of acrylic glass, its plenty strong and light weight.

Very nice build, is the chain and sprocket next to your arm safe?

Thank you! There will be an acrylic glass guard, but so far it hasn't been an issue.

So because of the quarantine our progress with sim ring has come to a halt, but after week brake we got back to it. This time in virtual space. We have been thinking about 4th axis of movement - heave. During last few days me and my friend were designing and modeling our idea. We came across a lot of problems, first one was how to keep traction loss and have heave. Solution was to move traction loss one level lover to the ground so heave wont interfere with traction loss. So about heave axis design and how it works. We are thinking of using 4 trapezoidal thread rods to lift the sim up and down. All rods will be connected by chain to keep them all rotating at same speed and let rig lift evenly. We also had to figure out how to attach rods so they will be pulled and not compressed, that was a big challenge but we extended main rig frame down ant additional frame on the ground up so we can criss cross connect frames to rods. Other problem was the engine placement and the way they will drive the chain, we somehow managed to fit them in the middle (right below our center of mass) and design sturdy mount that would only flex 1 mm under 200 kg load (yes we ran a simulation on that). Since we are planing to use two 800 W 36 v motors we had to think of something to help them lift all the weight. Our 1.6 kW system would give us only 0.16 G acceleration which is too small for us, we need more, we want more .
So I came up with a solution to apply constant load force to upper frame which would help motors. Its a pneumatic cylinder, since we will have 26 cm of travel, the cylinder should too. To achieve close to constant force applied by the cylinder i calculated that we need at least 10 cm diameter piston and an air tank that is 10 time bigger then volume of the cylinder. This would provide us with very low change in pressure during all piston travel and that would make more predictable heave axis because motors will always be pulling same weight up and down. The cylinder will be mounted in center right between two motors ant that spot should easily hold up to 400 kg force without major deformation. Adding the pneumatic cylinder to the system would take 90% of the rig weight from motors so by doing a little calculation we should get about 1.8G acceleration power which is plenty but adding the friction should cut this value in half so we may be looking at 0.8-0.9 G of acceleration in reality. We still have a lot of work to do, havent really figured out where do we get the parts for the cylinder and how effective it will be but I will keep you guys updated in making of it. I'll attach some photos of our 3d cad model so you can get the basic idea of how its going to look . So in this photo the basic concept of threaded rod mounting is shown.

Here is the electric engine mounting plate with aditional mounting plate below for the pneumatic cylinder.

The rig is raised to its max height.

And here it is fully lowered.

looks like a great idea can't wait to see it working.

Finally somethings happening with the rig, quarantine is not working in our favor so we are working from home. Since we cant make any proper progress (me and my friend live long distance apart and university is closed) we decided we can make useless progress. BEHOLD people"self stabilizing gyroscopic can holder" for your drinks. We came across this idea when we were thinking about adding something unique and new to our project. It took me about 4-5 hours to model everything and optimize so everything clears. We should start 3D printing it next week, lets hope it works out fine. Its designed for standard monster energy (or beer ) can add keeps the can vertical up until 45 degrees of frame rotation. Since we also have HEAVE axis in plans we are also thinking on adding vertical stabilization so the drink would not spill on any circumstances. It uses 8 13mm bearing (there are empty holes instead of bearing for now) and few M4 screws. It srews on 40x40 mm square tubing.

I have been reading all of your thread.
It is amazing what you guys built!

I am jalous about your abilities in constructing welding, mechanics, electronics, I T ... as I do not have any of those abilities yet ... WoW you guys rule !!!

I wish you all the luck for the heave and whatever comes up in your genius brains.
I will follow your project from now on.

All fingers crossed for you !!!
Stay healthy,
cheers from BAVARiA,
Yours ART FLY

Thanks for the positive feedback, we havent been able to do much to our rig since me and my friend live far from each other. We plan to continue working on the rig some time this month so we will bring more updates, for now we sorted the leakage problem of our pneumatic cylinder for the heave axis, so we can start working on it (finally !). Thanks again for the reply

Sorry for huge gap in progress updates, the virus was giving us a lot of problems. But now we are working and I am happy to share few photos of what we managed to make so far. Its not much but a honest work. We started making sub frame for heave axis, there will be a lot of problems trying to keep the main frame steady once everything will be moving but I have faith that we will succeed. Since heave was not going according to plan we decided to top frame to lighten it and get rid of all the metal that we dont really need. BTW gyro cup holder will be done next week (atleast i hope so) so i will be posting about that too.

Keep going smart

Yup another update, but this time its small, almost finished remaking top frame, it's a lot lighter, flexes less and in my opinion looks a little bit more professional (ofc it will need to be sanded before painting). If anyone have any suggestions how i could make it even lighter fell free to share your opinion. It needs to hold atleast 200kg (metal axis will be cut out in the middle, its just here to prevent warping when welding)

We back, with another update. As always its nothing big, just small stuff. Finally I made mounting bracket for proper racing harness. I tried to make it as small and light weight as possible and i think i succeded, i weights about 1.3 kg. Bracket acts as spacer for our racing seat ant is mounted by 4 bolt to the seat rails so all harness moves with the seat and there will be no problems of it going out of alignment with seat holes and pulling something in wrong direction. For now its a bit on the flexy side but need to bolt another 2 bolts and that should fix it (at the moment its only held by seat bolts)

After a lot of pain and suffering making and improving this simulator it finally reached mid point of its life and now we are able to show it to public. We ditched heave axis idea because of being too complicated and not having tools to achieve very low tolerances that heave axis needed. At this point our rig has pith/sway, roll/surge and traction loss simulation, driving it is one hell of a fun, our diy bass shaker idea worked very well (if someone is interested I might make a guide how to make them yourselfs without complicated tools), custom home made shifter also fits right in. We dont have plans to add another axis, but we might still make minor improvements. Iam adding some photos of how it looks now. Thank you all for support during this build. And no, this isnt a goodbye

strongly the video of the sim in motion

WooHooo !!!
What a great R'n'R chair. Makes me wanna restore mine.
When it is time for it I would appreciate if I might contact you?
But that's the future.
Enjoy your great build to the maximum.
Cheers & Greetings from BAVARiA,
Yours
ART FLY

yeah go ahead contact us with any question u have, will help u

Here is a video of the sim in motion. We migrated from arduino to stm32 mcu, but i still haven't figured out how to correctly change the pwm frequency. Increasing the frequency makes the speed controller vibrate and is unusable, so in the video the motors are still noisy.