3DOF - C1500´s first Sim Seat

I see most people use solution 1, but both will work.
Use axis/motor 1 to 3 for interface 1/arduino 1 and the others for interface 2/arduino 2.
Could be any arrangement, but it would be good to have standard so everyone speaks the same.

Hi
@pmvcda : Thanks, i will use version 1 but with Arduino 1 for axis 1-3 and Arduino 2 for axis 4-6
Here is the corrected version:


Other news:
While waiting for the next delivery of PSU i modded the one i still have.
This little 6cm fan makes horrible noise, so he has to leave the PSU

Now i use a silent 92mm fan and opend the case in the front a little bit.


Now there is silence

The other PSUs will get the same modification short time after delivery

kind regards
Peer

Hi
I´m once again a little bit confused

The problem is about correct setup of the interfaces in SimTools.



Some of you write [A<Axis1a>][B<Axis2a>][C<Axis3a>]
Other write [Left<Axis1>][Right<Axis2>][Front<Axis3>]
and a lot of other values

I´m looking for the correct Settings for the following Setup:
3x Arduino -> Interface1, Interface2 and Interface3
On each Arduino are 2 Axis
It looks like this:



Is it correct to make the following setup:

Interface1: [A<Axis1a>][B<Axis2a>]
Interface2: [C<Axis3a>][D<Axis4a>]
Interface3: [E<Axis5a>][E<Axis6a>]

Please help me

Kind regards
Peer

Thanks yobuddy, for the clarification,

Now I understand how it is working
The first character is the Motor (A=1, B=2,C=3) and afterwards the value of the axis sent to the controller.

But is it really necessary to send [C<axis6b>] ? The most 2DOF if seen doesn´t send this.

Take care
Peer

Hi
Once again a small, ahm..
A hugh update.

The last 2 days i disasabled the complete rig cause I broke one of the glued fingers which are connected to the poti.
Then i decided to turn the motors also.

Also the plan to use 3 Arduino, one in every corner, came up.

Today i reassembled and reconnect everything.

Here are now the first impressions:




Next step is the fine-tuning of pwm and so on.

Kind regards
Peer

Hi
last Weekend I made the first tests under load

It was funny for me but not so funny for the IBT_2
After a view moments of moving, one motor stops, some time later the next.
When 4 of the 6 engines stopped, I checked the temperature of the IBT_2´s and they are a little bit hot.

So I decided to check also the temperature concept of the IBT_2
First I disassembled the heat sink. To my surprise, there was no gap pad or similar in between.
Therefore, I have provided the heat sink with a gap pad and screwed again.
To make the cooling more effective, I mounted 2 IBT_2 together and attached a fan so it blows through between the two IBT_2´s.
This is what it looks like now:


Yesterday came the next attempt with cooled IBT_2
Since I do not yet have a steering wheel on the rig, I drove the first test drive with LFS with the mouse.
That’s a lot of fun.
I found that 80% in the setting are much too much and first reduced to 40%.

The TL is a bit "getting used to".
The position after a TL is always sideways.
A second TL in the same direction shakes only extremely on the rip.
But I think it's just an attitude thing.

Unfortunately, one of the IBT_2 switched off again in this test.
My guess is now that it has gone into overcurrent shutdown.
Today I will exchange this IBT_2 for an existing one. Hopefully the overcurrent shutdown will not turn up

Does anyone know a motor driver except the Sabertooth that have more power than the IBT_2?
I know that 3 Sabertooth 2x60 will be the perfect way, but they are a little bit to expensive for me at the moment.
I´ve only seen them for ~160€ each.

Kind regards

Peer

Hi everyone
Since I still had construction problems with the steering wheel and pedals mount, I decided to completely rebuild the upper frame.
Also the idea that the seat is inside the frame didn't leave me alone.
To realize this, the frame has to get bigger and the seat has to rotate 180°.
Here is a picture of how I imagine the new frame:

I will first create it in wood and later perhaps replace it with an aluminium frame.
Today I will buy wood, saw and screw.

What do you think about this frame idea?

The problem with switching off the IBT_2 is not solved yet.
Does anyone still have an idea for a more powerful motor driver?

Yours sincerely
Peer

Hi

Yesterday I had some free time, so I decided to build the new upper platform.

This one is now history:


After shopping and assembling some wood it looks like this now:


It feels much better when you sit inside the rotation instead of sitting on the top.

There are still some small changes to be made:
Due to the rotation of 180° of the seat I have to change the settings in SimTools.
The cut for my legs in the frame makes it a bit unstable.
I'll fix that today with a new front bracket for the pedals.
Also the steering wheel mount will be easier to implement.
And the pedals are still a little too steep.

Yours sincerely
Peer

Hi
Here some pictures of the new front frame and the mounting plate of the G29 wheel.

As you can see, there is only one leg on the lefthand side.
So it is easier to get in the seat.

And a picture of the full equipment rig:
Thrustmaster Hotas 4 and G29 wheel with shifter

The padels will be modded in future to upside down.

Kind regards
Peer

Looking awesome C1500!
I am planing on starting my build soon and my idea was similar to what your rig looks like now.
Looking forward to some video of this rig in full action!


Best regards

Your build is looking really good. I am inspiring myself of your seat platform as it is the next step for me in my build.

Also, since me, SilentChill and you had problem with Dell PSU tripping, I change my first post of my thread to tell to not use those. LED power supply is the way to go.

Keep on the good work!

Im wondering if your shut downs are because of the strain on the motors essentially pushing the power back because of the resistance.

Hi
I´ve tested the rig now for some "moments"
It feels realy good, BUT:

There was this realy bad situation where 1 motor seems to get wrong position information an starts to turn arround and around and....
The arm of the motor cut of the aluminium holder of the poti.


This mistake brings me to the idea to use the backside of the motor for connecting the poti.
So i disasambled one motor to see what´s possible.

The screw on the back is only for setting the axl in right possition.


My idea is now to use the hole from the screw to extend the axl until i can connect the poti on the outside

To hold the axl in right place, i put some brazen washer between case and the red disk


Next step is to glue the extantion and make some new arms to hold the poti.

I will trie the first on one motor and if it is working well I will modify all other motors later.

Kind regards
Peer

Sorry, i miss to update the frame pix

I also modified the padles, turned them and made a frame for them.

The position of the padles is not perfekt and i will modify it so the padels are rising up a bit.

The sigle-side-arm for the wheel works great und extremly stable so it is realy easy to go in the rig.

The two wooden peaks are not only the frame for the padles, it is also the base for the display frame.

Kind regards
Peer

Hi ho

Only a small update today

I tried to find a solution to fold away the handbrake and the gear switch to make it easier to go into the rig.
But every idea doesn´t seem the right one....

A view hours later I’ve decided to mount the steering wheel just like in my car, on the right side.
Now the handbrake and the gear switch has not to be removed to exit the rig. *lol*

Sometimes it can be so easy, but you have to find the easy way

Next days I will receive a second clutch paddle.
I will install also a switch, so you can use clutch or handbrake in future.

The paddle holder modifikation is still on the ToDo list

Kind regards
Peer

Hi
due to the third time getting problems with the connection between motor and poti I ordert some new clutches for this connection.
They look like this:

An hopefully they will be delivered tomorrow

Kind regards
Peer

Hi
The new clutches are mounted and work perfectly

Before:


Now:


Looks great:


Greatings
Peer

Hi

long time ago... But still alive

I made a new upper frame and it looks like this:


But now i got a new problem, the frame is to low

so i made longer arms. From 50cm to 70cm
Then it looks like this:


A pre-assembling shows how it would look like:


Next step is new pedal-holding and wheel frame.

But i also have seen a problem with my Arduino´s
If i manually move the rig for example up and down so all engines are moving,
it seems that some Arduino´s take a longer time so react to the movement.
It looks like the sampling rate for all 3 Arduino is very low.
They are not moving simultaneous, there is a noticeable time difference between motor 1 and motor 6
All 3 Arduino are connected to a USB3 hub and this is connected to a USB3 Port of the PC

Does anybody have seen this Problem?
How can it be solved?
Is it the USB-bus witch is to slow?
Would it bee better to use 2 Arduino with 3 motors each instead of 3 Arduino with 2 motors each?
Witch on would be faster?

Kind regards
Peer