Peacemakers 6dof Unicorn Build

Of course, i have the 600 mm ballscrew I thought that +/- 30 degrees was insufficient but finally, it seems to be ok considering yours. I can have a stroke of the linear actuator 474 mm. So yes, if you need to play plane games, it would be better to have the 600 mm ballscrew but for car games, i think that 500 mm ballscrew is widely sufficient

Hi, very nice project !
I have been waiting for a long time for someone to build a 6dof with these servos.
Could you share the plan of your rig ?
I don't know how to use design software but I know how to use a welding machine

Hey, sorry for the late reply but I don't have any design files either. I literally draw everything up on paper and model what i need to and go from there. I have my rig dimensions on the page before this and i mention what size steel i used and from that you can figure it out. I basically just started cutting and welding and making things up as i went with the upper frame. lol. If you need me to measure certain, specific parts, then i can do that as you need, no worries.

How did you draw the angle of the upper frame for the attachement point ? It is possible to mesure theses parts ? Thank you so much.

I'm not so sure what you mean.. From the base the actuators sit at approx 60 degree angles. can you dhow me which parts you want measured?

Hai Chris,

First of all a BIG THANX ... for your excellent and detailed explanation 1-7 , I read it a while ago but was quite busy till now.

I have my 3D Printer also delivered, and I have started to print some parts, as I will be making a combination setup of your design and that from SilentChill, I have been doing some work in 3DMAX and Sketchup to create a part to go from one to the other design, combined in one part.

For people starting with 3D printing ... it did found out my Creality CR10-SPro V2, has a little % offset in printing ... so I had to scale some of my parts by 1.5% ...to compensate the printer to make the stuff fit on the ballscrew and more ....keep it in mind, make a print,compare the actual size and size needed and calculate the % needed....

Still waiting for parts to be delivered, so I can not tell much or show anything.

I am going for 600mm ballscrew lenghts...

Keeping an eye out on your project Chris !....

Thanx and Best Regards for all the help and efforts.

Patrick

Hello !

I would like to know the angle of this part. Did you start an existing plan for your rig?

Thank you so much

@Peacemaker105 Great build! Starting mine now and have a few questions. A few notes, space isn't an issue for me (just not looking to go crazy or anything), I don't mind spending a little more to get something better, and I'm looking to try and keep the movement on the quieter side (if possible).

1. What ball screws would you go with if space wasn't an issue and you went with a higher quality one (without going crazy expensive)? I've seen you've mention a couple times going with a 600 or 650mm with 10mm pitch and getting a bit higher quality. Just curious if you had actually looked into some and found what you would go with. Like I said, cost isn't a major concern of mine, but just want to make sure it's money well spent.

2. Any reason to look at more powerful motors or anything? For the most part, the 80ST-M02430 seems to be the best option, but I'm planning to mount 3 monitors and quite a few peripherals. I'd like to (over time) make this a modular frame to convert from racing to flying when desired.

3. @Thanos - where's the best place to pick up the AMC-AASD15A metal case? Looks like it's included when purchased through pt-actuators.com (hard to tell), but I haven't seen it sold through Tindie or other places. Is that an option?

4. If you had to have spent an additional $500 on the build, what would you have spent the money on? What if you had to have spent another $1000 (assume it's a new build from scratch and not needing to use any current parts)(also just referring to the movement rig and not peripherals)?

Thanks for all the info you have in this thread. Lots of great stuff and I'm sure it's helping a ton of people.

Hi Peacemaker,
Wondering if you could advise, for your latest linear actuators, do you have a support or bearing on top of the screw shaft that sit inside the carbon shaft or it is just free to move a little?

Thanks,
David

Sorry guys been a bit MIA lately.

@cedric33 The Angle is 120 deg. it is in line with the angle of the base. So you could always just sit the top frame over your base and do it by eye if you wanted to, you would get it close enough.

@mshockey22 No i haven't really looked into them too much as the price is a bit of a worry for me. I got a wedding to pay for haha. but you could always just go by brand name.. usually a well reputable brand is a good start. HIWIN maybe worth looking into. I'm currently looking at building my own ballscrew nut with delrin ball bearings every second ball to help reduce noise. i read somewhere it can help alot with that. I'll probably just stick with cheap ballscrews for the future as well and just get them from the same supplier this time and hopefully have a bit more consistency.

The motors are fine. i'm only using 100w per motor and im 105kg with alot of peripherals. probably 180kg total weight.. they dont struggle at all. going 10mm pitch will make a difference but i cant see it maxing them out. PT actuator use these motors on theirs with 2510 ballscrews no problem.
You get the metal enclosure for thanos controller from PT-Actuator, email shao and ask.

As for spending more money.. i dont know really.. perhaps a nice chunky polished chrome rod for the actuators, perhaps 20mm screws.. work on a dampening noise, perhaps higher quality unijoints etc. I'm pretty happy with it really.

@MrWolf I have a plastic donut like spacer i 3d printed which goes on the end of the ballscrew rod and held on with a C-Clip It has about 2mm clearance all the way around so its not always touching but at long extensions under load when the shaft does want to flex a bit it will restrict it's flex and have a rounded surface to avoid binding or damaging the inside too much while travelling.

Cable management is starting become a real PITA! haha

Here's a couple tutorials i did recently on a Direct Drive Wheel setup. One is of the servo motor setup and the other is a Bluetooth button box with 16 buttons, 4 rotary encoders and magnetic paddle shifters.

incredible work! when are you (if you haven't already) starting on DIY Pedals? would be an awesome way to wrap up a complete DIY setup.

Hey Chris, where did you find those colored encoder knobs? Didn't see link or reference on the video...

They look like the ones you can get from Jaycar (Australia)
Tayda also do quite a range of well priced knobs.

Hey Chris ...

I saw on your Explanation Video of your SIMRIG.... you have a shot of the 3D Printed Emergency button.... : 6dof Motion Simulator DIY - Q&A - What is 6dof? How did it come to be? at 1.10

Could you tell me where to find the 3D Print file... and the wiring of it, Button , LEDs to the Thanso 15AASD ....?!.....

I found some nice Emergency Buttons with Red and Green Lights as well ...but I need to know if the WIRING uses a common ANODE or CATHODE...

https://nl.aliexpress.com/item/33058030932.html?spm=a2g0o.cart.0.0.559a3c00KDKQu2&mp=1

https://nl.aliexpress.com/item/33058030932.html?spm=a2g0o.cart.0.0.559a3c00KDKQu2&mp=1

If you have some more info or a link to the info... much appreciated !

Maybe Thanos is reading this as well.. as I saw the Emergency Button on his videos as well...

Regards Patrick

The AMC-AASD15A uses Common Cathode led connection, but you need to wire 470 Ohm resistor for each led, if it does have usual 3v leds. And the e-stop itself is pull-down (connects the KLM signal to ground). There is no separate positive lead from the AMC-AASD15A...

But the leds on this switch are not going to work directly to the AMC-AASD15A. They are rated for 24v...




You would need to add some mosfet drivers for the higher voltage plus external power supply:




Thanks
Thanos

Perfect ! Thanx ....

That is exactly what I was looking for ...,

I have years of experience with building electronics and LED's, so the 470Ohm does make perfectly sense on 12V....,I did build my own Emergency Button for my (also self-build) OSW DirectDrive , including LED's...,

I have a lot of 3 or 5 mm LED's laying around, all kinds colors, ...I think I can wire those up with the AASD15A directly, or with a small resistor, as they should light up from 1.7-3.0V....i will measure the voltage coming from the board.....

I could also "open" up the LEDS as shown on your image or the E-Button...as they probably have a resistor/small electronics build inside to make them work on 12V ...or 9-24V.

Ordered the common kathode version ...let see what arrives

Thanx a lot once again ...

I am going to connect and test your AMC-AASD15A and my first Servo within 2 weeks with my first TEST Actuator getting ready for assembly !!


Is the 3DPrinted model for the E-Button and LEDS available somewhere? Otherwise I will design my own to work with simple 5mm LED's...

Regards Patrick

As @Damien602 pointed out, they are in fact from jaycar, an aussie electronics store.. but they actually are slightly oversized so a dab of hot glue holds them firmly in place haha. shhh, no one is meant to know that. Kind of annoying because i like the looks of them. the ones that do fit aren't coloured. I keep forgetting to order the correct size. Most i find are knurled fitment and not the flat edge design but i guess as long as they're tapered they should work.