Tutorial DIY 3D printed Sim Racing Hydraulic pedals SRT

I suppose that in shapes and design you can look better than metal ones if you work with a good 3d printed design.

I ordered a spring, but it wasn't the good size. And I didn't have any KP001 left... So I printed everything ^^

It looks amazing with those printed springs. It would be nice to print the pedals in black and the springs in red or yellow. It would give it a more racing look. and



pedals perfect.

I am eager for all the parts to reach me and to be able to mount the brake pedal. But the question I have is, how is the circuit filled with brake fluid? Is it only filled by the base tank of the master cylinder? and remove the stopper from the brake caliper so that air can escape from the circuit while you are stepping on the brake to bleed?

Well...I spend my time prototyping. It's quite expensive, so I can afford to buy pla just to print a two colors pedals set at the end ^^. I hope for other people to do so. Buy yeah, 3D printing with nices colors can be beautifull ! Here is the H-pattern shifter I am working on :


You need to bleed the brake as a real car. You can put oil in the master cylinder reservoir, then follow this method :

I have just built my own hydraulic setup but used a load cell in the caliper to get the signal. It works but I couldn't quite get the right feeling and then by sheer fluke I came across this thread and your settings above.
These settings didn't make sense to me - if full pressure on the pedal is only registering 90% of the loadcells range then surely you can't get full braking. And if I reduce the brake range in game to 90% it should be at full braking with only 90% pedal pressure. But then I figured it out - if the pedal at full pressure is only 90% of the loadcell range then you have to set the game to 90% to match the loadcell input (100% load cell input would be 100% in game braking, but by setting them both to 90% you are still matching them but can never really get to 100% and therefore less chance of lockup ?)

Anyway I tried it and wow it seems to work - I will keep tweaking it and see how good I can get it.

Thank you so much as I would never have tried settings anywhere near those and I was getting frustrated with the settings I was trying

@niterida, I am not sure to understand what your problem is. You must know that you will never use the full sensor range, regardless using potentiometer, load cell, pressure sensor etc...
You always need to use something between the sensor and the computer so the maximal readed value becomes 100% of the signal sended to your computer.

Check the code I am using on the Arduino here.

Now I don't understand your reply
Why would you never use full sensor range ? Or do you mean you need the interface to tell the PC 100% input (travel or pressure) is 100% signal, regardless if the signals source can go higher ??
Anyway, Yes I have a loadcell amplifier.
I set the variable resistor on the amplifier so that 100% pedal pressure is 100% sensor value on PC
Then I set the brake range to 100% so again 100% pedal pressure is 100% sensor value.
But then I read your settings so I set the amplifier so that at 100% pedal pressure it was only sending 90% (so 110% pedal pressure would be needed for 100% signal) and then set brake range in game (Assetto Corsa) to 0-90%. This seemed to make a much better pedal, but I have since reverted back to 100% pressure to give 100% signal but left the AC brake range as 0-90% I will keep playing with it.
Am I on the right track ?
Cheers
Do we need to take this conversation elsewhere so I don't derail your thread ?

Well...the only goal is the following : 100% signal in the game must match the maximum pressure you want to put on your pedal, and there is no chance that it also matches 100% load cell range. That's the reason why you will never use all the sensor range, and that's the reason why you always want your sensor range to exceed the maximum pressure you put on your pedal.

By example : when I run endurance races, I don't want to put 60kg at each brake during 3 hours. So I reduce the maximum value in the software (my pedals are linked to the simucube) so that 50% at the load cell = 100% output signal.

No, we can talk about that here.

So the way I had initially set it up with 100% pedal giving 100% signal and brake range 0-100 was correct - sort of !!
After reading your comments I played with the settings again and realised that my issue was that I had set 100% pedal to 100% signal - but 100% pedal was absolutely the most I could ever apply which unless my name is Lewis Hamilton (which it isn't) I could never replicate that pressure when actually driving.
So I have dialled down the signal so that it takes a lot less pressure to reach 100% signal and adjusted my braking style to match and looks like I might have finally figured it out
Did you see I posted pics of my pedal, caliper and loadcell ?

@niterida I just saw then ! Very nice setup ! Fun fact is that I own the same pedals and the same master cylinder, and I never tought about using it this way, great work !

Little by little the pieces are coming to me. I have a little question, the push sensor doesn't quite fit the cuff.

In theory, you don't need to tight it all way down. The sensor's thread is conical.
Otherwise, I would recommend using this kind of seal or teflon seal

Yes, I was planning to use Teflon for the thread.

what is that? It is a kind of cylinder I really like. can you change the brake caliper for that slave cylinder? I think that this cylinder gives more possibilities of adjusting the brake pedal than the caliper.

Wath video minute 16.08

It's a slave cylinder. You basically find on all high end pedals. It's quite hard to find cheap ones. I found some on aliexpress but they are too weak for a brake pedal (already tried). More high end cost around 90€.
Yes you can adjust hte brake pedal, but in theory, it won't be as realistic as a calipper, because instead of having the real system, you will have a combinations of springs. The only advantage, as you said, is that you can easily adjust the feeling.

but it allows you to lengthen the brake travel, right? apart from being able to adjust the hardness of the pedal.

I wish I could have one. more than anything to mess around.

Well, the travel is also limited by your master cylinder.

The pieces are coming

What the screw in the video does not stop.