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Hannibal's thread into DIY motion platform

Discussion in 'DIY Motion Simulator Projects' started by hannibal, Feb 15, 2019.

  1. Peacemaker105

    Peacemaker105 Active Member Gold Contributor

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    Cheers man, yeah I knew it also but they were old and rusty and could barely get the bearing in so thought they wouldn't move. I was going to 3d print a spacer up to do the same but couldn't be bothered waiting haha. This happened as i sat in the chair so better than it happening mid race lol. So no harm done :)
  2. hannibal

    hannibal Active Member

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    by the way @Peacemaker105 if you have heim joints at the top and the UJ are at the base on rotating bearings and your actator arms can free spin. i suggest you bungie cord up your actuator arms to each other because damage on hiem joints can cause over time

    Attached Files:

    • Like Like x 2
  3. Peacemaker105

    Peacemaker105 Active Member Gold Contributor

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    Haha yeah mine were spinning but because i have them bolted hard to the frame against the nut, they can't spin. They're good now, no spinnage :)
  4. hannibal

    hannibal Active Member

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    i was talking about the bearing. not the bearing base...mine will free spin just in case i run into some weird pose causing servere binding. but with the bungie cords it keeps the actuators from too much free spin.... @Peacemaker105
  5. hannibal

    hannibal Active Member

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    i LOVE my ear bud mod for HP reverb.. it is so much more immersive with the buds in the ear
  6. dureiken

    dureiken Active Member

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    What is your Reverb mod ?

    thanks
  7. hannibal

    hannibal Active Member

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    sorry for my quiet inactivity.
    i been enjoying DCS world with my boss.

    but at this time, im trying to build yet another mount for the vive tracker, this time on the top of the seat to follow the best practice of placing tracker near you head position..

    i went back to this because some fellows in the motion compensation are finding good results...im hoping to implement M.C in my setup..i feel that this is the last problem that remains.
    • Like Like x 1
  8. hannibal

    hannibal Active Member

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    • Like Like x 2
  9. Pierre Lalancette

    Pierre Lalancette Sir Lalancelot Gold Contributor

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    My Motion Simulator:
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    I really like the design. Since the Pimax motion cancellation does not have the pitch correction, a adjustable pitch would be usefull to me.

    But I do not have that type of tracker. :/
    • Like Like x 1
  10. hannibal

    hannibal Active Member

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    at the moment, what ever i built is not functional with the hmd i have. i think i have to offset, since i am using a wmr hmd
  11. Dschadu

    Dschadu Active Member

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    No need to use the Vive tracker. Just use any motion controller you have - Vive Wand, Valve Nuckles, they all work.
    • Like Like x 1
  12. Pierre Lalancette

    Pierre Lalancette Sir Lalancelot Gold Contributor

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    Yes I know. It's just that attaching a controller is more challenging than those trackers. Especially if you want to be able to adjust the tilt of it.
  13. hannibal

    hannibal Active Member

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    nice, im going to go back to try my version 1 WMR mount
  14. hannibal

    hannibal Active Member

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    unfortunately motion compensation did not work for me via the HP Reverb. i tried using the vive tracker, and WMR controllers as the reference.. but as soon as the shakers go on.. motion compensation is out the window.

    anyways, i been meaning to share a video..

    i thank @wannabeaflyer2 @SixDegreesOfFlight @noorbeast @pmvcda @Pierre Lalancette @SilentChill and a host of others that have made it possible for me to build a DIY 6DoF

    • Like Like x 7
    • Winner Winner x 1
  15. Pierre Lalancette

    Pierre Lalancette Sir Lalancelot Gold Contributor

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    Welcome. I think you crashed.

    Anyway. Congratulation on your 6 DOF. It look super smooth, more than mine.
    • Friendly Friendly x 1
  16. hannibal

    hannibal Active Member

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    i took alot of time to think about it. each an every component.
    i did have a few minor mistakes, but i try think ahead of the process.

    i still yet to put it to full power.. i think i set max to 175..
    it is not fun to crash...

    the odrives that people are starting to build with look amazing.. but im old school, i like it analog, i understand it better. maybe odrive in the future.

    i hope you will have your setup running, i like when you show the demos to your friends with the big smiley faces @Pierre Lalancette
    • Like Like x 2
  17. pooh

    pooh Member

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    It's my first time here on this build and it's unbelievable how some parts are similar to my build
    I wanted to point out 2 things but @Peacemaker105 already made one about the bearing - I've actually learned from his case and that's why i made 2 bearings upside down in my build. They are dislocating on purpose - its so you can exchange the bearing itself actually.
    When it comes to the second point - i was initially inspired by @Peacemaker105 's build and wanted to use those joints but i had concerns with the diameter of the "pin" they have. I wanted to make everything at least 12mm and if you use 12mm threaded rod you end up with relatively small pin anyway:

    28DC4E14-43F3-4CCB-90E4-A12B1AEF939B.jpeg

    I'm not sure if that is a problem or 12mm is huge overkill but thats why i ended up with other joints (Which i now need to redesign a bit as they have too much play).
    Great build!

    EDIT:
    I was also epoxy glueing those top caps inside the rod but had one break and then redesign d it to be threaded metal. I'm not sure what happened - probably my fault with glueing procedure but its also worth mentioning
  18. hannibal

    hannibal Active Member

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    my design is inspired by @wannabeaflyer2 @SilentChill mostly.
    they used this type of u-joint, so that what i went with.
    i believe i am using a 1/2 " UNF rods..
    i have no problems so far, and of course, silentchill really worked out his build in his videos
    • Like Like x 1
  19. pooh

    pooh Member

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    the "big" threaded rod that goes inside the joint from the bottom and top is just fine (1/2" is roughly 12mm) what i'm more concerned about is those small ones pointed by yellow arrow. they are like 5x smaller in diameter and this is the weakest point of this whole bottom mounting point i believe...
    • Like Like x 1
  20. hannibal

    hannibal Active Member

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    your right. but im not going back to re-engineer. when it becomes an issue, ill figure it out. and again, ill mention, silentchill ran his build with like u-joints with no issue

    if the platform weighted around 1 u-joint, of course thats bad.. keep in mind, its shared between 6 u-joints
    • Like Like x 1