DD-Wheel with Hoverboard Motor

For anyone wondering about the braking set up, Ive been using one of these, which has been working really well since the gate is driven by the input voltage not the signal voltage
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/33038728761.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.568d4c4dzj2QsN

I also plan to copy this circuit。
Is your boot soft start setting complete?
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I saw some circuits (replace some devices, maybe it can be used).

https://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-Make-a-Softstarter/
https://circuitdigest.com/electronic-circuits/soft-start-circuit-for-power-supply

Update on my latest configuration.

I have struggled to get the b-g431b-esc working in my set-up, so i broke down and ordered a VESC off Amazon. while at $80 it was more expensive then the B-G431-ESC it was a breeze to set up and get running with my hoverboard wheel. The VESC configuration software is excellent, and allows me to adjust any setting without having to change code and download firmware. Here is my new system diagram.


Advantages:
-- Higher voltages then B-G431-ESC, I am using 24V, but VESC can handle 48V.
-- VESC configuration software. No coding, or firmware to adjust ESC configuration.
-- Braking circuit not needed.
-- More responsive then Hoverboard control board.

Disadvantages
-- Expensive -- $80 vs $20
-- Torque Ripple --Uses hall sensor for position. Not sure if encoder would be better. A little better then Hoverboard Controller, Does not effect driveability.

Definitely results in more responsive FFB. Can now feel the rumble strips which I couldn't when using the hoverboard controller board.

Happy to help if anyone else wants to try.

Nice work getting the vesc up and running, I was wondering if that was a viable option a while ago.
I would definitely look at using an encoder. Hall sensors at 120 degrees results in 90 pulses per rev which is a resolution of only 4 degrees.
In my setup I get 4200 ppr which means I get 0.09 degrees between each pulse
I'm fairly sure I've seen an encoder hooked up to a vesc but I could be wrong

Vedder himself talks about it in this video:

Hi,

I have a problem with ESC board.
I wanted to test it with the basic setup so soldered the motor and power supply and then tried to run motor profiler, but there was no movement from the motor at all. After that I discovered that as soon as I connect the power supply, ESC board goes insanely hot. Did anyone had a similar problem?

I haven’t had heat problems, but I have had problems getting it through profiling. I found that it is more likely to go through if I limit the current to something like 5A. It doesn’t affect the values much.

Also, they are quite tiny so it is easy to accidentally have some of the solder points bridging to other components.
What cables did you solder?

There is a small sticker on the back that says MB????-B??, what does yours say? I had trouble with the B04’s.

It is the B04. What kind of problems did you have with it?
I'm very confident with soldering so that's not it, it just goes crazy hot as soon as I connect the power supply :/

I have two of them, couldn’t get any of them to go through the profiler. Got new ones from mouser on goodwill. First card worked on first try.

Edit; they got warm, but I limited the amps so I don’t know if they would have gotten real hot.

You limited the current on the power supply? Did you eventually get them through profiler? I dont get any movement at all.
Are the newer ones get any warm? Sorry for do many questions but it's quite frustrating that brand new board doesn't work.

I limited in the profiler. The new one gets a little warm, but absolutely not hot. I never got any of the B04’s to move in profiler.

I've also had some bad luck using the B04. Tried 2 different boards, different power supplies and different motors - none came through the motor profiler.

I have a steering wheel thrustmaster T300RS, I want to try direct drive using a Hoverboard motor.

does this work?
T300RS driver specifications

mosfet AO4444
max voltage 30v
max Ampere 20A

sorry if my English is not good, I use google translate

My guess would be no. Unless you can rewrite the FW for the driver board. The motors are very different.

the thrustmaster t300rs uses a Brushless motor, I guess it's the same as a Hoverboard motor?

Sure, both are brushless. I don't think they have the same number of poles though, and the encoder/hall sensor resolution will definitely not be the same.

Hi everyone - and thanks @Chris_Beeves for signposting to this thread, much appreciated. I've successfully resurrected a G25 but that was only to get my feet wet in this DIY FB hobby lol.

I'm just trying to fogure out what I need to get. I definitely need:

1) A motor - I've seen 36V 350W hoverboard motors on eBay, can't link to them yet (forum rules).
2) An ESC - B-G431B-ESC1 I assume from reading the thread
3) A microcontroller - I already have a STM32F103C8T6 'BlackPill' that I used with the G25 and EMC Utility but it doesn't look like they're used here so is a STM32F407VGT6 OK?
4) Opto-isolators
5) A Braking resistor. 5 Ohm, 30W OK? How much does it have to dump?
6) An encoder - @Chris_Beeves what are you using? I can 3D print (and design) but I like your solution (it looks belt-driven with a custom backplate with integral pulley?) - If you'd share the files, I'd appreciate it.

Anything else? I'm thinking to start writing up all these sim-racing hobby projects as guides for others as I've done a few projects now and I think that would be one way I could return to the community what it's given to me in enjoyment.

Cheers

1) I used a complete hoverboard and sawed off the mid part. This gave me two aluminum mounting plates with place for electronics, perfect. (Made two units, one for motorbikes and one wheel). So try to get a full unit would be my advice, probably cheaper in total.

2) That’s what I used, and works fine provided Benu can help with the FW

3) I’m not sure if EMC currently supports the 100-50-0 PWM that the esc wants, but Ebolz will surely add it if you just ask nicely. I found the stm32f4 with MMOS fw gives a little smoother ffb though, not sure if that is still the case.

4) I never needed them

5) I have a 30W 5 ohm one I think, but it doesn’t drop the voltage enough. Probably a 0,5ohm one would work better. Currently I run my wheel with a led battery.

6) I’m using a 2000ppr encoder geared 1:2 if I remember correctly (writing on phone). Printed back plate with cogs in the center. Compact, and without noticeable play. I can send stl’s if you want to have a look.

Go for it!

After trying it on the TM T300RS, it worked fine without any changes on the board.

I can now confirm that you don't need to go down to 0.5 ohm. During the FSR Indy-car league where we had a "special" setup to make the car very nervous, and tracks with low grip, the overvoltage protection that Benu have set to 22 volt tripped all the time because of the continues fast corrections on the steering wheel. I put a additionally 4 ohm in parallell to the existent 5 ohm resistor, and now I have never registered a voltage over 13 volts. So 2 - 2.5 ohm is enough. I can also recommend my solution with the encoder mount using the tire as a gear. The only backside with it was that you get a quite high ppr and need to do a workaround in the firmware for it. https://photos.app.goo.gl/mvyhxa84JJ1ngVTM9