Peacemakers 6dof Unicorn Build

You should be fine speed wise with the 10mm pitch, but with half the final torque of the OP who has used a 5mm pitch. This may, or may not be a issue.

For such long actuators, its recommended to use 2525 leadscrew, which is thick enough not to bent (less vibration), and fast enough to accelerate without maxing out the max RPM. If extra torque is needed, to compensate for the 25mm pitch, you could use a 1000watt or 1500watt servo, and maybe an additional belt ratio 1:1.5. The AMC-AASD15A supports all these and strokes up to 2540mm in these parameters...

25mm pitch at 3000 Rpm...., they would be very fast, maybe not something that I would like to sit in, but each to their own . Any examples that you know of, as I would like see what that looks like in real life.

Sure, have a peak on this puppy;

Looks like a 10mm screw pitch...(500mm/sec). I would expect a 25mm pitch to be way faster.

@Cannibal Smurf Man they look great with the anodized rods! One thing i may be weary of is the base plate below the motor, it might be beneficial to sandwich a solid steel plate on the flat side of the universal joint just for added strength. mine is 3mm but even 2mm would give it some added strength.

As for length i think you'll be right with 600mm but if you were to go longer than thicker ballscrews would be a must.

@eloverphx Yeah most sellers only have things in 500mm or 1000mm lengths as they're more common but most sellers will do custom lengths if you ask them.. prices can start to jump a bit though thats all..

Also @Cannibal Smurf do you have a spacer at the top end of your ballscrew by any chance? its something i've left out here i think.. just thought about it now. basically like a doughnut thats 2mm or so smaller than the aluminium tube that will just stop the ballscrew flexing too much at high strokes and potentially touching the inside of the tube. Not sure if its really that necessary though..

Hopefully I'll be fine, I used an online calculator from https://www.servotak.eu/tools/engineering_calculator to calculate the required torque. I can't access the page now for some reason but it showed the motors I'm using should be more than capable.

2510 I would've considered, had I though of it at the time of purchase. I based it off @Peacemaker105 rig and assumed that the extra 100mm was negligible. Hopefully the 1610's are up to it.

They do look good, shame they'll never be seen (unless I decide to upgrade to poly-carbonate sleeves)

I'll add some 3mm plates as per your suggestion.

Fingers crossed that the 600mm 1610 will be happy to carry the load.

Yes, I used @SilentChill design for my spacer...looks like a wheel off the Mars rover. I made it 1mm smaller but it rattled a bit on (manual) long fast strokes, so I reprinted them to be maybe 0.1mm smaller and PTFE sprayed inside the aluminium tubes before assembly...seems to work ok with no issues so far.

Thank you @SeatTime @Thanos @Peacemaker105 for your input, it's greatly appreciated.

He didn't run them full speed on the video... the self test loop on the AMC-AASD15A is limited to half speed max... the actuators on the video with 2525 leadscrew have max speed 667mm/s

@Peacemaker105 Love your build, definitely gave me inspiration to build my own. Although I'm going for a 4DOF simulator instead of a 6DOF unless the 6DOF has any advantages to the 4DOF.

I was watching your video on how you assemble your actuators and it got me thinking if the leadscrew was just loose on the other side inside the carbon tubing ?

I was inquiring on 1610 vs 2510 lead screws on alibaba and the price was about double little over $500 with shipping for the 2510 x 640mm and bearings. Would it be worth it or should we look at staying at 600mm and using the 1610 lead screws. Will vibration be a huge issue? Was thinking maybe a guide inside the actuator tube but I can see if the screw moves a hair out it could ram the guide. When retracting from full extension. Thoughts?

Hey I was also curious if this part integrated to the top plate would be a benefit at all. It's a printed piece that includes ptfe tubing as a slider. Something to help protect the tubes as they slide past it. Not sure if it would be better then just pla or petg rubbing on aluminum or the carbon tubes.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1786382

Hey @eloverphx ,

We use these;
https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/Plastic-compound-linear-bearing-LIN-01RF_62503267995.html

Thanks I'll have to look into those then. I'm trying to get some parts together. With the slow boat shipping this could take awhile.. I guess I need to look closer at all the parts I need ordered so I can at least get them by Feb. Got servo, ball screws, and aluminum ordered so far. Might have messed up though. I'm hoping with the aluminum being 600mm and my screws being 640mm I can make it all fit.

I think you'll find 640mm is the overall length of the screw, I have 600mm aluminium tube and 600mm screws and there is about 70mm clearance down to the screw from the top of the tube. 30mm of that will be taken up by the threaded insert for the rose joint. You might just need shorter (25mm) threaded inserts.

Just want to make sure I know what I’m looking at. The bearings that you link are installed into the top plate of the actuator and the part on the left is the part you sent me that goes into the aluminum tube at the top. Also where did you find the threaded part. You think I need to find one that is 25mm long? And where are we threading that into? Sorry I’m just seeing the parts for the first time. I need to watch the build video again.

Peacemaker105 mounted his IGUS bearing on top of the top plate, I mounted mine underneath the top plate.
Sorry, the parts on the left are the parts that join the ball screw nut to the aluminium tube. Then in the centre of the pic are the top plates with the IGUS bearings installed. On the right side of the pic are the ball screws

Well, that depends on how much room you have between the top of the screw and the top of the aluminium tube. I estimate it would be about 30mm, but that is just a guess...so then 30mm inserts would be cutting it too close.
I wouldn't get the threaded insert from the same place I got mine if doing it again.
I'd try these guys;
https://dymingyang.en.alibaba.com

Looking at that site and not seeing your style of insert. I was thinking a self cutting threads to screw it into the tube rather than trying to bang it in to place which I would worry that the up and down movement would break it loose. I also need to figure out what size rose joint so I know what size the inside threads need to be on the insert.

@eloverphx I designed that insert, you won't find it listed on their page. It has an M22 tapping thread on the outside and a standard M10x1.5 thread on the inside.
The rose joint is M10, and you will also need M8-M10 misalignment spacers (eBay).

Great thanks for the info. I found these items on ebay is this what i'm looking at? Of course none of the parts are ever located on this continent.. https://www.ebay.com/itm/M10-to-M8-...1156?_trksid=p2349526.m4383.l4275.c1#viTabs_0
I'll have to see if someone can make those inserts from that link you sent me otherwise I will have to start searching for machine shops around me. Looks like my aluminum is complete and will be sending soon, Also my ball screws are getting on a boat soon so things will be looking up in the new year!