$450 Mige Direct Drive Wheel using MMOS and AASD

thats interesting - this means the mige servo driver can be used rather than the AASD driver !!

i did not realise the board could produce a negative torque voltage

It is not actually producing a negative voltage. The analog voltage still goes from 0v to 3.3v, but using the voltage offset at Pn190 we can tell the AASD driver to make 1.65V the "zero" voltage. So when 0v is sent from the STM32, the driver interprets that as -1.65v. When 3.3v is sent, the driver thinks it is +1.65v. Not sure if the Mige driver has the same voltage offset parameter as an option...

Ok understood

The mige driver needs a postive voltage for cw and negative for ccw

Sure, but does it have a signal voltage offset that you can set? The same method I used on the AASD might work for the Mige if it allows...

i will look into it ! if the mige driver is quieter we might loose the squeal !

on the mige driver there is PA 39 - Analogue torque offset - value between -2000 and 2000

there is also a torque gain PA 29 so it looks like it can be done !

the mige driver operates at 1.5 khz from what I can make out

Great! Do you have one to test now or just thinking about buying one?

I have one - I will need to find some time to wire up the correct connectors etc - its a pretty good driver from what I can make out and is suited to the +/- voltage Torque model but will work in position mode just like a AASD driver. Can a 3.3v board be modded to outputs -3.3v to +3.3v (i tried it using a DC h bridge and it did work but i was not sure the resolution of the h bridge was fine enough)

From what I have found, there are ways to achieve this, but it is beyond me how to design the appropriate circuit. What you'd use is called a biopolar DAC... that's about as far as I've got on the subject.

He Guys,

Like I mentioned an month ago:

($450 Mige Direct Drive Wheel using MMOS and AASD)

I still have the problem of losing connection to the game. Al of the sudden there is no registration of the wheel, so it freezes (in game) and there is no power any more from the Mige.
After restarting the game, everything is there again. Until the point that is happens again.
There is no clue when it happens. Sometimes after a few hours, sometimes after a few minutes.

I suspect the Disco board, but I'm not sure. (I already re-flashed the Disco board, but no luck)
Does anyone encountered this problem also? And if yes, did you solve it. (And how)

TIA

Bakhol

Sim Pedals ?

I have a small sketch that will allow you to use a Arduino Leonardo to create a set of Windows pedals / Joystick

So you can have a seperate controller for your wheel and pedals

I use a Hydraulic brake and increase the value to use full range of the axis (16bit) - if you use this you may not need to amplify the numbers

use A0, A1 and A2 for reading the pedals


##########################################################


#include <Joystick.h>

// Variable
int gas = A0;
int brake = A1;
int clutch = A2;
int gasValue = 0;
int gasValuebyte = 0;
int brakeValue = 0;
int brakeValuebyte1 = 0;
int brakeValuebyte2 = 0;
int clutchValue = 0;
int clutchValuebyte1 = 0;
int clutchValuebyte2 = 0;

Joystick_ Joystick;


// init joystick libary
void setup() {
Joystick.begin();
}

void loop() {

// Gas
gasValue = analogRead(gas);
if (gasValue >= 1) {
gasValuebyte = gasValue * 1.4 ;
}
else
{
gasValuebyte = 0 ;
}
//Joystick.setThrottle(gasValuebyte);
Joystick.setXAxis(gasValuebyte);
delay(1);

// Brake
brakeValue = analogRead(brake);
if (brakeValue >= 1) {
brakeValuebyte1 = brakeValue * 2 ;
// brakeValuebyte2 = brakeValuebyte1 - 127;

}
else
{
//brakeValuebyte2 = -127;
}
Joystick.setYAxis(brakeValuebyte1);

delay(1);

// Clutch
clutchValue = analogRead(clutch);
if (clutchValue >= 1) {
clutchValuebyte1 = clutchValue ;
//clutchValuebyte2 = clutchValuebyte1 - 127;

}
else
{
//clutchValuebyte2 = -127;
}
Joystick.setZAxis(clutchValuebyte1);

delay(1);
}

@Gadget999,

Not sure if this was a comment on my message? But I do use separate pedals already.

Ride on
Bakhol

Noise from the servo driver destroys stm32.
You can protect it with this.
TLP2372 may not be needed.

@sedesa tatasa Thanks for coming back to me.
Do you have a kind of version/type/model of line receiver I should use?

TIA
Bakhol

AM26LS32

@Milt
Sorry to bother you also on this channel

I followed all the steps you mentioned, and all is working fine.
At least better than the first time I tried (broken flipper instead of finger )

Now my question:
Like I mentioned, all is working fine. I'm only worried about the big offset PN190. At this point it is at -1495.

When the DB25 connector is pulled out, the wheel is going crazy. (Back to zero due to PN190?)
When the USB mini is pulled out from the STN32F407 Disco1, the wheel is going crazy. (Back to zero due to PN190?)

Do you have some kind of safety for the lose of connections?
Something like: If <lose of signal on pin X> then <Cut power to servo>?

I run the 130ST-M10025 so you can imagine I don't want to have a run-away when driving (with VR)

Also the PN189 value, keep it at 100%? Or can you adjust the overall power with it. (But with a run-away it always uses the 5V?)

Like to hear your thoughts.

Ride on
Bakhol

i saw a comment about another way of controlling the aasd

"Also, I strongly suggest swapping from MMoS to EMC Development firmware (not the old Arduino EMC). Yeah, it costs 15 euros but it is well worth it. It's in current development and supports more features as well as MUCH better FFB. Will run on your STM32F407 but also the cheap $2 blackpill (STM32F103). Unfortunately it's a rewire though."

has anyone tried the EMC firmware ?

@Gadget999 Okay, I'm sold. (Break a leg instead of a Finger )
I'm quit interested. Do you have some kind of link? (saw the youtube....nice to try.....but for Arduino?)

I'm getting the TDD-Thanos. Most likely "everything" can run on it. MMOS, VNM, EMC?

Love the game of the almighty servo.

Ride on
Bakhol

so this is the next thing i'm trying (SN75ALS199N instead, so i could get it sooner, still quad differential line receiver though).

should there be optical isolation on line receiver output ? or is that sufficiently protected that it won't be necessary ?

Can i put 4n25 on the direction line control ?

for voltage, i'm planning on using http://www.icstation.com/voltage-co...wer-module-digital-analog-signal-p-12498.html for PWM DAC , cause the chip mentioned above is ungodly expensive as a shield, and a pain to try to solder.

i've got a 60st-M01930 with AASD-15A, running of 110V and a HiLetgo STM32F407VET6 () board. Things work okay if the motor isn't enabled, motor power connector unplugged or e-stop is pressed. mmos calibrates fine, sees the index, directions work fine.

as soon as i enable the motor, USB starts glitching, and disconnecting/reconnecting very fast. when it sees the device, it gets the right wheel angle, but it's not smooth, and has dropouts where the data coming over USB pauses for half a second, and then recovers. this behavior goes away when the motor is disabled (e-stop), with the encoder still working fine and much smoother.

it's not that particular STM32F board being weird, because the Discovery board disconnects hopelessly and disappears from usb list as soon as drive is enabled with the same setup. acts like it's supposed to with motor disabled.

force feedback, bumpstops, wheelcheck work fine while it's connected, but with dropouts where i'm seeing data not coming in. also, eventually even the HiLetgo board disappears from the device list until i hit the reset button on the board.

usb cable has 2 ferrite rings, plugged straight into the computer - no hub. both 2.0 and 3.0 usb show the same craziness. other devices on the same internal usb hub start to act up, so keyboard stop working when the dropouts happen. the cable from the drive to the board is shielded and fairly long, computer and drive are both on the same 110v phase.

i tried both sides of the A/B/Z (+/-)

is there just a whole bunch of isolation missing and these chinesium servo drivers are noisy as hell ?

Stupid question, I have stm32F4discovery, to make it work you have to connect both usb outputs on it or just the micro usb.
the pc detects the card but the vnm software does not see the steering.