3 DOF / 3x Mixed Vertical Actuators 24v 200w / adjustable rig / Done and runing :D

I move rig to basement where temperature is higher and change usb cable.
Signal from hall looks like ok now.
Ibt-2 turn only one direction , I sopose is damaged but have only one now.
It hot a lot but I have good cooling base so temperature not destroy them.
With no moving still take 1Amp (motor 24v, power supply is 10Amp stabilized Siemens)
I unplug motor cable and boaard still consume about 1Amp

30/12/2021 update
After every day spent on sim after work:
-oscilation sensor on smc3 propably was cousing by not grounded old power line in garage
-frame grounded to 240v power suply ground
-but even in new instalation in basemant sensor 2 have some variation
-working: back left (1) and right (2) motors in setup smc3 (saved)

-I wire finishing setup:
3 new ibt-2 all tested on 1st port and working before insal on 2nd and 3rd motor
wires on rig to boards ibt-3 final wersion
wires on rig to 3 as5600 final wersion
box for arduino final and put genuino uno (instaled smc and update previous save)
connection power suply to ibt-2's (rear left and right)

And wery happy for my work done ... when i powered all -rear rigght motor (2) start run sharpnes
(front motor (3) not calibrated, ibt-2 and as5600 connected to arduino, 24v suply not connected )
I turn on and off but not corect result till Arduino shot down (was connected only in computer usb). After trying run this on ... 12v powr suply added ........... take measurement ... issue: as5600 (1) and (3) made short cut between VCC and GND terminals ... so arduino going to overheat.

I giveup today, dont have motor positioners to continue, only one looks like ok.
I have many photos but I dont know if that configuration will be as final one so i have to fix all issues first to share progress.

Update 012022
Ground from main power line was take off from frame. Noises was come from hall - direction pin connection mssing (described later post)

Last week photos upload:
Polished surface for joint movement



Drill holes, rest parts and some fun tape




Inside part have orings to prewent noises


All done

ibt-2 needs cooling




I was use thermal paste between aluminium part under board and upper with radiator



So Im happy, looks nice and profesional but story not ends yet



Thats working few days



By connecting front motor I was made mestake insert my 2parts connector



I burn out my first genuine arduino (photos next post) and 2 of 4 As5600

so ok, but at that stage I was dont know that arduino is broken so I move this connector manualy ...mebe something not connect ... during that normal thing ibt was blow up with smoke (20A power suply)

What was wrong (ok upper photo ...connector)
one more think - I use aluminium block to take hot from ibt-2 and only thin film from thermal paste prewent short cuts on board, when I moved connector I was made short cut on board.
In normal condition Radiator is anodized so dont made schort cuts



I was thinking to miss small connection:



But not sure if 2 big bases under board dont have curent so I take naxt ibt and do that on front motor first



Im not haapy by fixing this on plastik straps, but dont have other nice idea now.

Instalation as final one (but mebe not final)
one day before blow up

Firs genuine Uno


After previous story and earlier happy new year in my basemant I need to continue....
dont have hall but lets do front on pot

front runing Im happy but that cant be too long:
front motor looks like is litle bit too soft for my idea. runing some 2 times up and down in smc3 and turn off. Ok i dont need 100mm stroke ...lets change to 60mm. Works longer... lets seat in rig ... run two times and turn off

So after hundrets of hours Im litle bit ....(some worldwide known Polish words...)

After issue about front motor power, next day I was take another idea
For big monitor or tv have to be done some suport, so why dont instal springs on this support?
And we have something like that (4x 12kg and works realy great):

On arduino uno we use up to 3 motors driving but 3rd one can be operate 5 or 30kHz.
So using 30khz ibt-2 run out quick and turn of.
When I was buy Chinese ibt there was information than ibt board handle up to 20khz.
Than have to run on 5kHz... who try this?? Motor singing like radio ...its too noise

So I put second arduino and we have:
1st run motor as 1 and 2 on back Left, Right
2nd run motor as 1 on front

Ok front more or less working but on back side right one have some noises on hall and ibt die.
So I waiting for delivery .

Midle time I want clean up the wires but I was reading on forum than is possible to connect 2x Ibt parallel for one motor
Its look good idea as they very hot during 5 minutes test in smc3
That information should be placed in Turtorial (very useful)
https://www.xsimulator.net/communit...3dof-motor-driver-and-windows-utilities.4957/

information from:
https://www.xsimulator.net/communit...-a-single-motor-driver-more-power.5482/page-7

CONFIG A :



-------------------------
(Update 20220307)My connection:


---------------

lets continue:
After blow up one of ibt I buy connectors 2x5 and to prewent wrong plug som jumper was addet from arduino stuff and cut short legs.
Connector have key on one side, distance betwen board legs and cooling radiator will prewent wrong connection too.




some hours later...

Next step as I cant continue motor adjustments... I was buy used handbrake, when was delivered I see an arduino pro micro inside
So Micro was go out from handbrake and only cable was connection hall sensor inside and go out to box.
That change was necessary to add another connection... pedals from logitech G29. As some of You known,
Brake pedal have non linear working in G29 electronic. By connection to micro or leonardo You will have linear workingfrom beginning till end of push.
That is meybe not needed for amateur like I but why not separate.
Use this under USB 2.0 recommend
I was use 4 pins : A0 to A3 for signals. 3 for pedals and one for handbrake .
Now pedals are independent if in the future wheel will be change...


Source:

movie about connection couse pinout was not clear for me:





joystick library

https://github.com/MHeironimus/ArduinoJoystickLibrary



code for arduino for 5 axis

https://github.com/AM-STUDIO/USB-5-AXIS-CONTROLLER


But inside code inputs are adjusted as full pushed after calibration, so You need to change parameters as relised.

orginal ...(axis,0,1023,0,255)
have to be ...(axis,0,1023,255,0)
on all axis



and looks like this (I not tested in game only calibration done)
update(06012022)
tested on LFS works great

Some upgrade to hall sensor adjustments
New parts printed

Installed 2x ibt on one motor and finish rear instalation (front not yet)

I spend lot of time and issues about hall bellow.
I unplug grounding from main power supply (240v) to rig that cousing noise.

But :

AS5600 hall sensors (white chinese board)



You have to determine how will be used : as I2C or Analog
I use this as Analog only and dont save any diferent angular on board (posibility to 3 save)
!!!Analog input works when R4 resistor is out from board !!!
You have to connect Dir pin to GND or VCC to determine working direction
- start this when R4 gone if not board will cooking (I smasch one)
-!!! if dir not connected, sensor will have randomly picks and moving where he want on SMC3 !!!



-need good position bracket to get magnet in axis
-made bracket for angular adjustment posibility

So if You connect Your motor to ibt and instal AS5600 to motor
-motor going in other direction
-hange motor cables from +- to -+
-motor going still wrong
-change connecttion of Dir pin, if is connected to + change to -

Left motor



Right motor




Hall have much more clear signal than pot resistor. When I damage halls and dont want waste time I move for pot instelation.
SMC3 signal was scharpnes so motor try to going that way - take curent in diferent direction much more oftem than on hall:
- motor and ibt-2 was wery fast hot, till ibt turn off its self
I will post update when force halls to move from 360 (0-5v) to our 90-110deg (as 0-5v) and save this settings in hall correctly.

I was added estop
only idea for cutting some is power supply for motors (240v) by relay, using 24v external safety driving.
That cousing issue when You pusch button - some times by disconnect arduinos or crasch simtools, sometimes usb dont recognize arduino like broken one and need change port.
If You have better idea what line in system should be cut I will like to read





Update 19012022
That estop not working well.
Some curent interupt usb connection in computer... arduinos are invisible (like broken), whell (G29) restart calibration. Its back to normal by change ports usb or restart system.
I lookig for galvanic isolation usb ports for arduinos as they connected to ibt-2 cousing issue when power drops down (turn of).

Some secondary market 40' tv

Finnally after two months I was able to drive.
Using two arduino :first run back motors and second run front one.
Back motors have same settings in smc3 but right one worm up to high. Left is litle hot. Both have two ibt-2 to run.
But in some reason left motor (cooler) was burn one of ibt during test on track, could be when I crasch.
So if You have some idea how to prewent back curent pls write information or some link.
If You have same problem with motor looks that same condition but one is wery hot pls help

For beginner like me (port of usb in smc3)



Bellow is mine adjustments for gentle movements
Motor rear left (arduino1)



Motor rear right (arduino1)



Motor front (arduino2) //(I will check that later on this photo dont have PWMrev so could be wrong, before springs added)



Update after springs added




After some hours I done some adjustments in LFS for simtools and movie from replay... its awesome Thx for all help

Arduino Uno 1 config:



Arduino Uno 2 config:



Forces :







And here is the icing on the cake


https://www.bitchute.com/video/UQ470ENrmbKe/


Now I have to read about licence DIY
update 08012022 I have diy licence
Now I need finish rig , prepare place at room.... that not be tomorow but will.

Update 19012022
I serching now posible best parameters in simtools for ACorsa.
Work well but always is choice betwen details and smasch when collision or less detail but safety collision (safety for rig).

I forgot write on of previous issue:
When motors are configuret in smc3 and all looks ok in simtools,
Using test window in simtools to check how axis or dof working and your sim jump like crazy than change your language to United States (as a primary to avoid changig this hundrets time a day) .(update 22012022) Yes , second think is put down Axis Limiting in Axis Assignments, in my case I put this to 50% to normal work in Output Testing. Looks like we use part of sensor Bit resolution so my rig wants to read 180deg - Output Testing hit motors from begining in half way , added 50%limit use 100% of output testing axis slider.(end)

About hot right motor in rig, I was adjust in smc3 arms on back to be in one level.
motors not working as linear forces so when they have diferent angles on right and left they consume diferent amount of curent. Also I try better adjust springs on front -same on left and right side.

This does not completely fix the difference but it has halved in the graphs between the motors after the adjustments.

On the right side of the rear motor there is a gear stick, a handbrake and the weight of the front motor so that's probably all I can do.

One could still soften the Kp factor a bit in smc3, but I get out the details.

After a few hours in the saddle, I lean towards limiting the strength to be weaker but detailed. I did a few laps in Rally cross but what happens there when going in - with the asphalt setup - as if the rig doesn't care that it has no wheels and runs around the room, incredibly reactive. Not to mention the collisions

After moved the equipment to its proper place, it took a while to set up AC, ACC, PC2 in simtool. Im thinking of adding some vibes under the seat for traction lose. Noorbest shows me topics on the forum and I am looking for the simplest solution. Ideally, you should use the unused # 3 motors in the smc3 as an additional axis that regulates only the speed of the vibration motor.
Adds a movie from a new location
Hits noises in video comes from G29 wheel FFB not from rig. Rig is almost silent.


https://www.bitchute.com/video/Icsw8mWBu3Nz/

Is there a video of it working ?

Yes in link https://www.bitchute.com/video/Icsw8mWBu3Nz/

PC shot down (reboot) during VR online playing

Added galvanic usb isolators 2x for arduinos, now computer not shot down during play.
Computer durin gaming in acc in vr consume 250 w in peak - before that was check I sopose my Power device 650w in PC is its too smal or fault. Than my guru said it can be some ground line interfering from rig via usb.

So no reason PC shot downs solved after instal galvanic isolator on ADUM3160.
Arduinos are powered now from 12v power AC adapter

(Update 28012022)
In online playing PC still crashes, yesterday 2 times.
What I find it could be PC power suply during VR playing. I have Cooler Master 650w 80-bronze. I switch line to grapchic card (have several) but that not help.
(Update 02022022)
I change power suply by SilentiumPC Supremo FM2 Gold 750W
based on PC BUILDER

He add usefull link from PSU comunity : https://cultists.network/140/psu-tier-list/
PC working well and online VR playing is ok. After 3 hours play once PC shot down but it could be steam or drivers. I was playing PC2.




here I use thermo shield

Motors worm litle bit during 2-3 hours playing and was necersary to upgrade by some cooling