MY own 2 dof diy

i try everything , when the green line and the blue line in same position (smc3) the motor not moving but its on, but when i move the blue line the motor move and not stoping, i try switch the cable from the motor but its same, and try switch the cable from the pot and its same, i think the ibt-2 dead

Please send a better picture for the psu output.
I guess the 12v output current is way too low as seen on the first page of the thread!

Is this what's you're still using?

Can anyone please give me a diagram hot to wire this driver please?








this is the board diagram,




is used as MM in Smc3, but i burned one board like it before so i dont want to do it again, so i need help

Hello! I also bought such boards for 100A.
I have not connected it yet, but I logically assumed that such a scheme would be correct.

its good diagram bro, and maybe its the correct one but i need to know if its the right or not, i wont burn it again like last time Lol

Hello!
I'll try it myself one of these days and then let you know what I got.

Can you take a photo of how you connected?

I checked! This one is 100% working.. Nothing burned down.
I'm trying to upload a video now.

https://youtube.com/shorts/DNW7HDOvy48?feature=share

Please note that I did not connect the AG and PW contacts!

Great, Thanks bro so much

Hello!
Also on the Amazon website I found a review on this driver. Reviewed by Orion S. Lawlor. Maybe something will be useful in the future.
Here is what he writes:

******
Orion S. Lawlor.
Many of these motor controllers are pretty optimistic in their ratings, but this UN178 board really can switch 100 amps per motor.

This weekend I did some stall tests driven from an Arduino on our mining robot. Our stall tests showed one motor control channel on this board fed from 24 volts DC stalled at 105 amps feeding one locked-rotor DC motor. I had a mechanical failure (tore two inch-wide polypropylene straps in half!) at 62 amps when trying to stall two DC motors while using both output channels, but this motor controller was still working fine. I supplied the board with 24 VDC power from two 5000 mAh 20C 3S lipo batteries in series (at these currents, you need pretty serious batteries.) This same test has fried solid state relays labeled "40A" and hit the current limit on several weaker motor driver boards, so I'm really happy with this board!

The documentation above is not quite English, but the board's six big pins with screw terminals are labelled as:
+ -: Input battery power, 12-48VDC
电机A: Output terminals for motor A
电机B: Output terminals for motor B
The big screw terminals easily fit solid core 12 gauge wire, and solid core 10 gauge is likely doable, although stranded 10 gauge wire would be a tight fit. At 12VDC, the board pulls 58mA static current, even with all motors stopped, probably to power the onboard opto isolators.

The board's ten small logic input pins have male headers at the usual 0.1 inch pin spacing with these labels:
G: input pin for logic ground. Tie this to Arduino ground.
A1, A2: input digital direction pins for A motor. 1,0 or 0,1 turn the motor in different directions. If you leave the pin disconnected, it acts like it is pulled low.
B1, B2: same direction pins, but for B motor.
PA: input PWM pin for A motor. Set to 0 for off, or send in a PWM duty cycle to set the motor power. You cannot set this PWM pin to a fixed static 1 value (100% duty cycle) or else the board will rapidly stop powering the motors, so cap your duty cycle to 99% on time, so the board sees some changes on the PWM input pin.
PB: same PWM pin, for B motor.

These logic input pins don't need to be connected:
AG: connected to battery - terminal, isolated from logic ground. I think this is only provided so you could measure the millivolts on this wire to use the board itself like a shunt resistor to estimate the motor current. It's safest to leave this line disconnected, and the board works fine with the input disconnected. (If you tie logic ground to battery ground, and the battery ground terminal comes loose, the motor current will backfeed through the logic side and fry your microcontroller.)
5V: seems to be a decoy terminal: no input pulled or required; no output provided.
PW: does not appear to be connected on the PCB.

i test it and its work


but after 2 min play its shutdown so i'm searching for the solution

Do you think it's because of these 100A drivers? Maybe it's the power supply going into protection.

Not from the 100a driver and psu because when its happened both of them still work but the problem is in middle of the game sound come like when you disconnect usb, so i need to remove the usb cable and replug it to continue play

Perhaps the almighty @noorbeast will be able to suggest something?

Try it and nothing helped, i tried lower PWmax but still the problem there even when no body on the rig its disconnecting

This what happen when there is high motion



i tried all of these:

change pot

change psu

change arduino

uninstall and reinstall simtools

change usb port

change cable

check if anything touch grounding

check another pc

lowering simtools profile level to 30%

all these and nothing helped, so what i'm thinking now to do its to buy this one and check