Lalancelot's Rigs Experimentations

Hello everyone.
I'm starting a new project. Actually, it will probably be many projects, experimentations and other things. Some may know me from the thread 6DOF from scratch.
6 DOF from scratch
Since I have unmounted my rig last year, I have been waiting for more time and better finance before starting something new. I have none of those, but I started anyway. At least, I have many parts available right now.
I'm looking for a rig in the style of SeatTime's 3 actuators rig.
Seattime's Sims
So, during my Christmas vacation, I made a miniature version of what I'd like to do, so I can run some test on it. So far, I got heave motion for Live For Speed. So, it is not a bad start.
I used Mover as I could not get motion out of Simtools. The communication with the arduinos was not working. That tells me that I have to update everything before I can go further.
Also, I'm testing my bad English as I will speak in my videos now. I used to avoid it, but a new thread bring new bad decisions.

Let see where this will lead us.

Ok, a few updates.
My rig was broken for several months and decided to tear it down.
6 DOF from scratch
Then I brought (almost) everything to my other house where I work.




Everything made it out alive (almost). There was a small damage to the pedals' support of the rig. And it happened once I had move it to the basement. I just wanted to move it and I hold it the wrong way. Bah, it benign.

Ready to start a new project.
Pierre.

When you say new project, it equals spending money for new stuff.
One thing I learned from my previous project is that it is counterproductive to try to anticipate everything and know everything before hand. You will end up making mistakes anyway. The faster you do them, the faster you find the right solution. Unless it is life threatening, plunge into it like an oreo into milk. Your project will advance so much faster.
So, I needed wood.


I got wood.
Now, if I can only know what to do with it.
As usual I didn't really have a clue.

We'll see.
Pierre.

It was time to strip down the actuator.

Many modification in mind.
Remove all electronics from inside the actuator and put it elsewhere.
Will use the hard aluminum casing to help support the weigh transversal force that may happen in my new design (working on it).
New design, new goodies, such exiting times!

What could be inside?

A mouse that can be mounted on a rig that does not need to move.
At my work, there is a fabulous place called the Fablab. Five 3D printers, two extrude printers, laser cut, latex cut, power supply, scanner, programmable sew machine, a molding machine, and so much more. It is my favorite place now: https://www.facebook.com/fablabmatane/
In one week, I was able to iterate all the versions for my new ball screw attachment.
We now need to put this into a cohesive actuator.
Pierre.

Damn Youtube decided that videos under one minute would be short and could not be embed as media here. What a annoying concept. I'll try to put the link directly.

Before moving on to the actuators, I wanted to test all the games that I own that could make a rig move. So far, I got eight.
https://youtube.com/shorts/jIVw1ZwfDC4?feature=share
https://youtube.com/shorts/aXt9n7lFfCM?feature=share
https://youtube.com/shorts/TwRTFb6BSuA?feature=share
https://youtube.com/shorts/XqCBwE-J0LA?feature=share
https://youtube.com/shorts/qrM48HLjZbY?feature=share
https://youtube.com/shorts/3sARFFczRQA?feature=share
https://youtube.com/shorts/JLezuZWrSvU?feature=share
https://youtube.com/shorts/bmiqcyOmbkQ?feature=share

Pierre.

To put the weels behind the aluminum case, I need some clearance on the wood support. I use a rotary rooter that I got with the house. I had never used that tool before. Let's hope I never touch it again.


I am wood worker worst nightmare.
Pierre.

To attach my actuators to the wood, I needed to drill some holes. Aluminum is not the easiest metal to work with.

I was able to put one together, partially, as I broke the tap with doing holes for my screws. Since this will be only a test with plastic parts, I finished with less working screws and more temporary tie-wraps.


I learn a lot about aluminum. Like you should put all the parts before assembling a first prototype.


There you go. It's even attached to the support.
Then I secured it to my stairs, wondering how I will make them stand properly when I told myself: "Wait a minute, this idea of attaching the actuator to the stairs is not a bad one."


I have enough clearance to put it right there. My only concern is the heating system, but I will find a way.


That gives me so much ideas.
But now that I have the main support for the batterie (I don't want to service anymore my rid at the floor level), I need to recharge them and get some rest.


Pierre.

Looking at the analitics views of my youtube's videos, in less than 24 hours:
Dirt Rally 2: 520 views.
DCS: 196 views.
Dirt Rally: 77 views.

All others videos have... 2 views. I wonder wich games are the most popular right now for simulator rigs?
Pierre.

Looking up at my old thread, I did the calculus for my upward actuator:
6 DOF from scratch

I hardly remember anything. Fortunately, this calculator helps a lot.
https://servotak.eu/tools/engineering_calculator/ballscrew



So now, the motor requires about 320 Watts.
I = 320 / 24
I = 13.3 Amps, Multiplied by 3 gives 40 Amps. I think we are safe with Sabertooth 2x60.

Looking at the chart for my motors:
https://www.ampflow.com/E30-150_Chart.png

At 4500 rmp, the torque is 1N-m.
Required Gearbox output torque: 0.6796 and 1.0195 N-m.
We are at the limit, but this is for my full weight for one motor only. The weight should be distributed among three motors. So, they should never have that much to lift. So they should be fine.

Pierre.

This evening, I started the table that will hold the batteries high enough so I can service them easily. It's not finished yet, but my old drill started to fume. I decided to give it a rest.


Pierre.

Information I don't want to loose about my relay:
https://www.lvelectronics.com/details/item?itemid=COLE HERSEE RA-700112-DN#

I looked up for the best budget wireless keyboard. This one came up and I ordered it.

Small, thin, compact, wireless, not crazy expensive. The only problem with it is that it is in Germain (I think). I will adapt. I think the Entf key is Delete. It's a start. Maybe I'll learn some Germain along the way.
Seien Sie vorsichtig, der Simulator ist kaputt

I set up a potentiometer system that worked exactly like my miniature simulator. I was really attracted by the simplicity of the whole system. The carbon fiber tube slide inside the printed tube at the potentiometer. But it turned out the potentiometer do not turn enough and the control range is too small. I will have to set up a gear contraption for it.
The advantages:
-The electronics is not cramp inside the actuator.
-Easier to service.
-No tension what so even on the potentiometer.
-Simple.
The Cons:
-Need more space.



Pierre.

The other printed part at the other end of the carbon tube. I will redo it to use a screw and not glue to set it up on my (temporary) actuator plastic part. I will make it a bit stronger too.




Pierre.

One of the most satisfying part of making a Simulator, is to command and receive good for it. It is extremely rewarding, but it is not that good for my financial stability. So, what's in that box? It's quite light. Made in PRC? Where is that?


Oh! the Ceramic Fiber Insulation Blanket. I can put my actuator close to the heat system now with this protection.


Oh! But the fun does not stop there. Not only do I receive more stuff, but I had to buy locally a new tap to finish making the threads for my screws into the aluminum. This feeds my buying compulsivity and put endorphin into my brain.


It's bungie cord. I want to test if I can ease up the push of my motor against the gravity. The first tests are promising. It is my second attempt at buying elastic cord, as my first attempt, it was not elastic at all. My first of many mistake to come.


Pierre.

My little table is done:


I wanted to put my limit switch with the potentiometer, but it was so simple to put them directly on the actuator that I opted for that option. Here's the print:


It turned out that it was too small. So I just broke the walls, as they turned out to be useless, and I drilled the holes to fit the screws. The distance to the actuator was perfect:


I setup my electronics on it temporary to make sure that everything is working and that I am still able to understand the way it work. At first, I was lost. Then it came back. It's like ridding a bicycle or making babies. You never really forget how to do it, it's just that it becomes too much of an effort.


Then, I made my actuator move using SMC3 utility tool. This is when I found out that my potentiometer system was too simple and did not offer enough range to the simulator. Right from the start, my limit switches turned out to be extremely useful. I need to set up a gear setup to it.


Pierre.

Good show, funny too. Your English is fine.
I know you're trying to avoid spending money on the actuators but the difference between what you are creating vs the industrial servos that seattime is using is like comparing a scooter to a race car. Might be worth it to spend your effort building something with nicer motors. Also remember seattime getting higher pitch screws and even wanting more pitch. If you have a long actuator you want a steep pitch. Like 20 or 25 mm. Then you need higher torque motors.

You probably already know this. Food for thought.

Dear God! Never would I dare compare my rig to the one of SeatTime. (here I go on my scooter while he flies with his solar system powered machine)
Don't worry, I'm aware of that. The only comparaison comes from using a triangle shape with fix straight actuators. It is true that I don't really want to spend that much money on new motor as I won't probably play that much with the finished rig. If I take into account the use of my first rig, I'm probably below 100h of play, while having 2 and half years of construction. I'm not looking to build the best performing rig. I just want to try all sorte of things, testing new and crazy ideas with the stuff that I already have.
As long as the rig perform enough to me to have fun and it doesn't kill me along the way, I shall be happy.

Thanks for lying about my english.
Pierre.

Fair response, but just to be the devils advocate for a little farther, what is it about this design you are after? Because I have respect for it too but mainly for the fact that it has a very long heave axis. It will be hard to enjoy the long heave without being able to move along pretty quickly. So a low pitch screw (I understand) will leave you wondering what it's all for.

Good question, and the best answer is: I don't know.
I think that what I am looking in that design is the stability of the fixed actuators (that I'm guessing I will get).
When I was using 6 dof, the actuators were kinda working against each other sometimes. I am hoping that this simple triangle shape will be more smooth. I know that I am giving up some forces, but I want to test other things for those.

Warning: Might be a dumb question ahead.
I have 3 others motors. Could I couple them with my actual motors? Giving them the same instructions. Could they work in pair?

his motors are rated close to 6000 rpm ,he get a decent speed wih lower pitch