Peacemakers 6dof Unicorn Build

It may well be print settings, mine was way too tight with v1, I just chamfered the hole a bit around the edges, and added a tiny bit more keyhole size to the one I returned to Chris, and it is a tight slide fit on mine.

Hi, @Peacemaker105 Looking into triples, but wondered how the fast motion and unnatural moving horizon and constant flexing/vibration of the monitors effected your eyesight and Equilibrium? From my limited single monitor on/off rig testing, I concluded that large off rig mounted screens may be better?

Hai Chris and all readers,


two weeks ago i picked up my 6DOF build where I left it, one fully build working actuator, about 2 years ago, the one with that large tube going up.
Looking at your new design and silentchill's, I really like the idea of a fixed ball screw end with bearing, with that in mind I started modifying and redesigning my first build. Leaving almost all 3D printed parts as brand new garbage

I read or saw that you now use the 1610 Ballscrews instead of the earlier 1605's... I still have the 1605's laying around and my first new actuator is build and works fine.
Just before making them all six I would like to ask you this, the use of 1610's instead of the 1605's , what are the benefits over the 1605's besides the speed of the actuator, and second ...do you need that speed ?!
Would you say upgrading to 1610's is the better choice for a 6DOF ?!

Regards Patrick

Hi Patrik,

i used like peacemaker for a longer time (16-17 months) 1605's it was good. but after a few weeks with my 1610's i can tell you....it was the wrong decision, to use the 1605's first. the difference is day and night in my opinion. faster and lower noice. to my surprice, the motors are same warm or even cooler, than before.
and now, you can feel every ground wave. down and up SOOOO much better. the only thing i realized, is that the small shakes, like rough streets with cobblestone, or curbs are a litte smoother than before. but the aasd servo drives are so powefull, to compensate that good enough, by a harter setting.

And a upper bearing is gold!
the longer the ballscrews become, the more important i think they are. my construction is a little different (have my own) but i also use two bearings. i can only recommend it. you notice the difference, when moving very fast.

best regards

Thanx a lot for the info on the 1610 Ballscrew...

I have already ordered 6 of the 1610's and I am going to put them on the rig first...

you say that you feel the movements better, I guess that is true if you move twice as fast... I am playing mainly VR... do you have any knowledge or experience with that as well... as I guess the motion is "bigger"if you are wearing VR glasses than in your room behind a monitor seeing the walls etc..

regards Patrick

since i ONLY play in vr, i can't give you a comparison. but since enough people sim in flat and in vr, it must also be great in flat. however, only vr comes into question for me. they belong together for me. i also had vr before my motionseat. but only for short time...i basically started sim driving with the oculus dk2.

yes...use 1610...they are just better. if you want some very good advice from me: if you can't anchor your motionseat to the ground (like me), make sure you build your rig very flat to get a low center of gravity. that way you can "turn up" your seat a lot more. it won't try to take off as fast.

So with your Actuator built a system that involves a PVC tube, no potentiometer?

Hi I can not explain fully, as I am yet to actually build my rig. As far as I understand, by using these motors and drivers linked through the Thanos controller

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/100....order_list.order_list_main.56.48a818025f29sU

The motors start by going to the bottom of their travel until they hit resistance, so then they know where they are, and after this they travel up to your pre-determined start point and know where they are in space as they count each turn and use the numbers you have put into the controllers to know where the limits of travel are. I hope that helps cheers

Yes its High pressure PVC, not that thin walled stuff that shatters. this stuff you can drive a car over it and it wont deform or break.

No potentiometers, it uses an encoder that is built into the back of the servo motor for positioning.

So my journey begins!
I am quite a fan of your 6 DOF configuration, thank you for sharing your jouney!
I will be building the actuators almost identically to yourself however will have slight changes to the seat rig.

I am now starting to get an idea of parts required, with a plan to create one actuator and dial in fabrication to then copy for the other legs.

Currently sourcing the balls screws is the tricky bit, being in the UK, machine specialists will charge a small mortgage to supply or make.
I can get 1610 600mm C7 from China, however I do have reservations in the quality and straightness of the screw. I really want this to be as quiet as possible but not breaking the bank going to ground shafts.

would you say c7 is okay or would doubling down on C5 rolled if I can source them be a better choice ?

thanks

I have ordered TBI Motion ballnuts from alibaba - at least they look genuine. Payed around 42$ per piece (though mine are TBI SCNH 1610 - no flange with key) + shipping to Poland - total was almost 300$. I didn't order ballscrews cause shipping cost would be so high that it was more sensible to order them from polish TBI reseller. If you would go this path check TBI ballscrew datasheet - some ballnuts require different kind of ballscrew - like mine SCNH .

For this particular application C7 grade is more than enough. You're not building a CNC milling machine where C5 or lower would make a difference. Also cost is much higher for more precise ballscrews. The same goes with manufacturing process - rolled ballscrews are perfect for sim application - no need to go with ground ones.

What can help with noise is propper alignment of ballscrew with actuator piston rod axis. If for example sliding bushing of piston is not aligned axially with ballnut-piston assembly and bearing block of ballscrew, stress will cause more noises coming from ballscrew - also it will cause more wear on missaligned parts.

Another source of noise is anti-rotation - this can make a lot of noise if not done properly. I went with small PU wheels for my actuator build - they are soft enough to align to surface imperfections - and belive me - anything rigid requires sub milimiter precision to work optimally.

CAD of my not-yet-finished actuator ballnut carriage with PU wheels.

I noticed that too having the ball nut perfectly aligned axially with the pushrod made a huge difference. But achieving this alignment is hard, considering the inaccuracies of my FDM printed design. I had 4 screws connecting the ball nut to the pushrod. I noticed tightening only two of them would reduce noise significantly. I suspect the four screws have over-constrained the ball nut and relaxing two constraints allowed the ball nut to self-orient along the actuator axis. Less really is more in this case

That's an interesting thought! I have never spent much consideration on the noise coming from the internal constrainment of the ball nut, but using rollers sounds very interesting. Too late at this stage for me to incorporate it into my design, but keep me posted how it works out for you.
Where do those rollers roll along? Do you use aluminum extrusions? I'd be curious to see more CAD rederings of this concept.

Cheers

Hello, is your servo motor 80ST-M02430 with brake or without brake? Thank you, congratulations on the project following him!

I'm looking at these motors on amazon (i'm new so i can't post a link), but the title is "
CNCTOPBAOS 750W AC Servo Motor Kit,2.39Nm 0.75KW 3000rpm Servo Motor and Driver Controller System 220V,17 bit Encoder for Industrial Robot/Semiconductor/Engraving Mill Lathe Machine"
Would these work? From what I can tell they're the same as the 80ST motors but I'm not an engineer by any means. I was looking at potentially getting the 1000W version since I'm 330 pounds. Is there anything else that likely wouldn't be strong enough in v3 of these actuators for someone my size? I also have the same question as Grupo did should I get the with brake or without brake?

If you get a chance could you share details of where and how your frame cracked?

Im working on a design for a similar build but have some concerns about the 6-6 stewart platform configuration (with 6 separate actuator connections on the top and bottom frames). It seems over constrained so if you have any actuators out of sync it will be trying to twist the frames out of shape. Do you think this could be the reason you had cracking?

I like the idea of the actuator pairs coming together at a single point on the top frame (6-3 stewart?) as each actuator can be in any position without trying to twist the frame. I have a found design for a 2 into 1 universal joint style connection from a research paper that is relatively simple but you cant really replicate it with off the shelf parts so it would need to be fabricated. Any thoughts on if you think this is worth the effort?

Hello
For motor contollers we use AASD15A because the Thanos card need this to command all the motors.
You can find them in Aliexpress for exemple if you want.

Thread looks like dead, but I wanted to thank you for a really neat design and your work. Already built the actuators and it's really, really well done. Cudos

Hi, this rig is awesome. I've enlisted a couple of friends to help me build something very similar using your actuator design (obviously not for profit). Just because I want my racing experience to be the best it can be.

Hi mate is posible using ballscrew 1605 leght 300mm ( stroke around 15-20cm) because i order already, i want to use your hardware and frimeware