Question A beginner dreams of 2DOF

Continuation of the previous post.

Now about global improvements:

Made a platform for the steering wheel and pedals

Since the simulator is used most of the time as a regular PC chair, this design must be removable:

It consists of such details:

Telescopic connection for adjustment:

Later, the hand bolts were replaced with a homemade bolt with a clip from a 12g CO2 can:

After, as you have already noticed, a platform for pedals was added. Made from an old TV mount:


To balance the simulator with the new part, the center of gravity was shifted closer to the motor levers. Works great! The only thing to do is to lengthen the front legs, otherwise the structure sometimes falls forward (it happens when a child plays)

This is what the simulator looks like in action:

Help! The system crashed on my PC. All data is lost. I reinstall SimTools, and it asks for a license. I found my Discount Code for a Free DIY key. Tell me how to do it right?

Thanks for the help. You helped me figure it out!

Hello everyone, I'm here again!
Preparing my sim for the next upgrade.
I bought powerful gear motors:
Collector electric motor 90ZYT126 /63B14 TM SigmaMotor

• Power — 200 W;
• Supply voltage — 12 V;
• Rotational frequency — 3000 rpm;
• Rated current — 22A;
• Torque — 1.56 N·m;

Worm reducer SMW 040 TM SigmaMotor

• Gear ratios: 60:1
• Torque: 29 Nm.
• Revolutions on the output shaft: 47 rpm
• Weight: 2.3 kg

And DC 5V Hall Angle Sensor Non contact Industrial 0-360 Degree Rotation Angular displacement Sensor



Waiting for good weather to start welding. I need to slightly adapt the mounts for the new motors.
And some more improvements.
I tried to connect the motors on a stand with ordinary pots, they work well.
With the connection of Hall sensors there is a fear. Do they connect in the same way as regular pots? Or are there some nuances? I did not find information on the forum.
Do I understand correctly?

Do I need to connect like this?

And another question:
I plan to buy power supply unit 12v, 50A, 600W, in a perforated case.

Before that, I used an old HP Proliant DL380 G4 DPS-600PB server power supply.
But they can sag with age.


What do you advise, buy new (but Chinese) PSUs or use old (but USA) server PSUs?

Hello! Finally finished my sim version 2.0. Here are some photos for you.
It remains to return the seat to its place


Since the engines turned out to be large, all the stuffing had to be moved to a separate block.
The case is made from an old PC.

I had to replace the cooling radiators with IBT2. The original drivers burned out due to my inattention on the test table. I found only Chinese ones on sale, but they turned out to be weaker and went into defense after 10 seconds of testing. The radiator from the processor seems to have solved the problem. Let's see how effective it is.

By the way, I tried to use SimTools v2.6. The old misaligned axle problem is back. I had to roll back to version 2.5 again. I changed the Arduino board to the official one at the time when I was solving this problem. The reason is not clear.

Hello. Huge need for HELP!
I can't start the second motor. At first the first motor did not work, and the second worked absolutely correctly. After long dances with a tambourine by the fire, we managed to start it. But then the second motor stopped working. A wired connection error is excluded, since the motor was working before.
Initial setup without result. SMC3 sees the pot signal when turning manually. IBT2 was replaced, Arduino Uno. Tested the power supply and wiring.
Humanitarian is at an impasse, we need your help!
My SMC3 Settings:


Motor 1 with the same settings works without failure.

I changed the way the pot is attached to the motor shaft. Due to a bad connection, the first engine did not work.
I checked the power outputs with the IBT2 with a tester. There is no current, although 12v comes from the PSU
At first, during the test in SMC3, the motor went up and did not go down, even after a reset. Now it doesn't move at all.

Thanks for the help. Your link showed me the unexplored depths of the forum.
According to my observations, there are 3 types of IBT2:
1. With the Arduino logo (high-quality, but it is already impossible to find them);

2. With the manufacturer's marking: HW-039, HW-39, Roland-AC5, and etc. (more or less well assembled, but still comes across a marriage);


3. Without any marking (NO-name quality).

IBT2 is designed for loads up to 43A, but since the terminal block installed on the board is not designed for such currents, it is recommended to use a current consumption of up to 10A for continuous operation. You need to remove the terminal blocks and solder the wires directly.

On the forum, I came across several mentions that you can use drivers with SMC3 other than those offered in the instructions for SMC3. For example this 100A driver. (I also found a similar driver for 60A). There was a reference to the SMC3 instruction about connecting this driver to the system. This is a very difficult answer. Few here on the forum have the name Tony Stark. It would be easier to connect if there was a visual connection diagram, like MM and IBT2. Maybe it exists, but I didn't find it?
In the meantime, I will try the assembly with 2x IBT2 per motor.

Thanks again for your help!