Astur-SIM. Cheap DIY 2DOF

Hello everyone:

My intention is to build a simple and cheap 2DOF simulator.

This is my first simulator, so the main objective is to learn and improve myself and all with the tightest budget possible.

That's why I will use the materials I have on hand, second-hand accessories and make as much as possible myself.

OK. Thanks for the links.

I have been reading for a long time, but the information so resumed is much better

The first thing will be to design and build the cokpit and since I have a cnc router, which is also another DIY project that I did a few years ago, I will design and build it in plywood and using a design that allows me to facilitate the tongue-and-groove manufacturing of the parts. parts. Therefore I will make my own design taking ideas from the website https://opensimracing.com/ and adapting it as necessary.

Then I will make the cnc files and the cutting simulation.

The first photos in previous post show the cokpit used as inspiration and this one shows the final design with the requirements that I needed, but maintaining general dimensions of the previous one.



This design minimizes weight, has dimensions adapted to my cutting machine and a more compact design, because I don't have too much space at home either.

After receiving the two windshield wiper motors from a BMW 330, coming from a car scrapyard,

the next step is to eliminate the ground connection to prevent them from short-circuiting each other during operation.
This will fry the H-Bridge modules
The connection of the brush that is attached to the motor chassis is canceled and the one that generates the fast speed is located

After receiving all the electronic components, I mount them on a wooden plate to check the correct operation and verify the connection with the software.

First, load the code onto the arduino board. First has to be edited indicating mode 2 since I will be using H bridges.
Then assemble the whole set, using an old PC source, which will not be the final one, since the voltage it supplies is just 12 v and these motors are able to withstand a little more voltage and with it would provide a little more power.

Let's remember that in the car they work around 14 v and do not cause problems.

One of the motors didn't work well because stripping the wire, I almost cut the wires and the weld didn't make good contact, but I discovered it and solved it by soldering it again. Remember, they are very thin wires and you have to be careful.

I have checked that there is no thermal paste in the h-bridge. So, a bit will be added later

I got a seat from an old citroen C2, (it needs a bit of cleaning LOL, but no problem¡)

so I redesigned the structure and removed the wooden backrest, which will no longer be necessary.
I've also lowered the anchor height to compensate for the extra seat height

With the new design finalized I can now start the cut using 15 mm thick plywood

Good afternoon, with a 10k potentiometer it is also good, I know that the common potentiometer has a premature lifespan, but does it work the same as a hall sensor?

Good evening, thank you very much for the information.

Next step is steel base for the whole device.
I´ll use some recycled steel from an old ping pong table and a cardan Joint from Amazon (18 €)
Still missing some reinforcements, adjustable feet, small wood shelve and paint.
Picture showss just the beginning.

Because I can't dedicate as much time to it as I want, progress is slower than expected. I have already finished the basic metal structure of the support and although it is still missing the feet, the supports for the motors and the shelves,

I have already been able to assemble the complete set in a preliminary manner. Now it's time to start sanding and painting the structure and final configuration of the electronics before joining it to the final assembly.

I haven't tried connecting it dodo together yet.
The wood is very light and I'm not afraid of it. But the seat is quite heavy and it may have been a mistake to incorporate it.
Anyway I'll play around with the length of the crank and the distance to the center of turn to reduce the necesary torque .
If it still doesn't work well, I'll replace the seat with a much lighter wooden backrest and i´ll have to move the cardan to balance the whole assy again.
I'll keep you posted when I get more progress.
Best regards

HI.¡
having into acount noorbeast coments new back resthas been designed


I will cut it jus in case car seat be too heavy for my wiper motors. As I said I will try to hack my atx power supply to give 14 volts or more.
Some similar models work in such configuration, so i will try it

BR

Next step a bit of paint.
"Rosso Corsa"¡¡ of course.
It starts to look something like a rig¡¡

Goodo Morning every one.
In order to be able to assemble the components together I will use wing nuts, instead of hex screws. This will allow you to adjust the ergonomics of the rig on the fly without the help of tools.
To save cost I will make them myself using leftover wood scraps, cut on the cnc machine and incorporating threaded inserts.

Washers glued to nuts and and nuts already assembled, ready for paint ¡¡