Gearbox choice

Hi everyone I'm hoping for some advice on choosing reduction gearboxes
I'm attempting to build a full frame 2dof motion sim with traction loss out of 30×30×2mm mild steel
I've built top and mid frame with u joint the motors I am using are 200w zyt-90 from motion control products they currently have 25:1 gearboxes on them and they are no where near strong enough they are hollow shaft with no keyway

I've been in touch with MCP and they tell me they have 50:1 reduction gearboxes available I've also looked at there website and notice they also have 60:1 boxes available
Thersz also a choice of mcp4 and mcp2 with the choice of brass or plastic gears

My question is which should I go for ? My rig is already heavy should I opt for the 60:1 , will I lose alot of responsiveness, will 50:1 be enough to hold the frame when powered down
I've heard plastic gears are better for motion sims

Please if anyone can give me any advice it would be really appreciated
Also if there's any higher torque gearboxes cheap available please let me know
Also if anyone has the need for 25:1 gearboxes mcp4 I have 4 of them just pay for shipping and there urs

Look forward to hearing from anybody

Kind regards Matt

I have these motors:

https://a.co/d/bt6P6pD

120w and they are fine. I was a bit concerned about the 36rpm but it is absolutely fine.

I have a well balanced footwell rig:

https://www.xsimulator.net/community/threads/wood-andmetal-2dfo-rig-version-2-0.18854/

Thanx for the reply
I'm actually happy with my motors it's the gearboxes I'm trying to lmfind as the 25:1 gearboxes are too weak
I need gearboxes that will fit zyt-90 mcp motors 12v
Regards
Matt

For a lot of motor sizes are standard gearboxes but not for zyt motor sizes they come together.

Old sorry i didnt read youre first post correctly
The difference between a i50 and i60 ratio is effincienty the i60 is lower (gives less force) the are booth self locking.
A wormgearbox isnt made for dynamic motion and a modern plastic one handles it better than a brass one with brass there can breake pices off
hope this helps
regards Ad

Thanx ordered 2x 50:1 from motion control products their factory is only 10 mile down the road from me
Problem I got now is the 25:1s had hollow shafts equal on either side so it was ok that I only had right hand gearboxes
Now the 50:1s have a hollow shafts with 10mm keyway on 1 side and I think 14mm on the other any suggestions for spindle acquisition would be really helpful

Unfortunately that's the problem I wish they did send gearboxes with solid shafts but mine actually have the keyway as the gearbox hollow shaft 10mm keyway on 1 side and 14mm bore in the other I basically need 10mm shaft with key to slot into the hollow keyway of the gearboxes possibly welded to 14mm shaft for pot on other side which will be mirrored on the other gearbox
I was considering welding threaded rod and nuts directly to the hollow shaft but worried i might ruin them

Any suggestions would be really appreciated im stuck as to what to do
The closest thing I could find was a shaft for nmvr stepper motor and the smallest I could find is 14mm diameter
I'm actually a bit worried even if I do find a 10mm shaft with key it won't take the forces and will snap
Maybe motion control products might exchange them for me for 1s with solid shafts

Looks like thats the best way forward
Hope they're helpful
I've emailed them already
As a matter of interest heres the photos of my original 25:1 boxes i was able to get a nice tight fit with a spindle due to the same bore through out and the shaft protruding 15mm gave me enough to weld too

Maybe a weird answer but can you use the shaft off the 25:1 gearbox? Swap the shafts?

I considered this and its beyond my capabilities to separate the gear from the shaft
I'm debating reboring to 14mm so its equal then maybe trying to cut a thread but dnt wanna try anything till mcp get back to me regarding an exchange

Got impatient ran threaded rod tightened nuts either side of shaft welded nuts to shaft and to rod bit janky but seems ok will update and upload build pics when done

If faced with problems like this I usually just take a shaft without keyway and glue it to the hollow shaft with Loctite. 638 or 648 is made for high strength shaft-hub connections and can take quite some torque.

Interesting thank-you I do have loctight so may give that a go