Question DIY FFB wheel (lenardo version)

Hello guys am new here since this is the best place for putting my queries, i am putting my problems about my DIY ffb here. I have a my1016 specs(24v @13.7A 250W )motor with emc lite software cuz am poor anyways using it on a Arduino lenardo , for power I am using smps 24v 15a 360w ,now about the main problem the drivers I was using bts7960 43a h-bridge
I was happy that it worked at the start with the wheel test in (Iracing).
But it only worked for like 5 min in the spring test it would heat up like crazy even when I put thermal paste and put 2 pc fans it did work sadly
So I returned it and like an idiot ordered 2 more to try what someone was else was saying to put them in parallel so it can handle more power
But I guess the back emf was too strong and both died fyi this was at full 24v not under-volted or anything cuz I read that it may damage the motor in the long run so I got one more bts just to try one last time but this time I changed the PSU to 12v at 5a don't ask me why (saw this shit on YouTube that shit is bs) anyways it worked but the power was completely so low that I could stop it with 2 fingers without any effort. Thats how far I got with my ffb so far.okay now for what I am planning to do is not use the bts completely instead use cytron MD30C-R2 motor drive it is quite expensive compared to the bts but more reliable ( I hope) the only difference is that the bts has 2pwm and one Dir but the cytron has 1dir and one pwm. Luckily the emc lite software allows us to change the type of driver control so that's that(don't have the driver didn't test just a speculation on my part) hope some can having this device can test it thanks in advance.and last but not least the back emf or whatever they call. It may be fixed by connecting Schottky diodes can't say this for sure cuz am not electric engineer so what ever am saying about this emf my not be the best advice I read this stuff in a forum and some other websites can use a p-channel MOSFET too. Idk how to do this tho. Btw Schottky I was planning on using if anyone is interested is (15A 45V 15SQ045) fyi I don't have much of a choice for this 45v part I would got 30v 45v is kinda overkill. I think it would be way better to use a battery instead of doing all this shit with Schottky diodes or p-channel MOSFETs.like paring two 12V car battery (cuz 24v is to damm expensive for poor me) with a smps so this seems the most effective way to prevent back emf and that re-gen breaking nonsense .Thanks for reading my dumb rant about my ffb wheel plz do help me if possible so this topic can be the best way to make a cheap ffb wheel with relatively okay-ish ffb. it can even be upgrade by either adding swaping the motor and driver for a more powerful one (smps and battery too). or twin motors with separate driver or a 2 channel drivers. Your choice.

I think this is a common problem with all that DIY stuff. Theese days, everything is available to everybody for very little money. But only very few people understand what they are doing. If a driver blows up they blame it on BEMF and suggest to put a diode here and there.

That reminds me of stone age people performing a rain dance in the hope of getting a good harvest. It helps sometimes but at the end it depends more on good luck than what they actually do or don't.

The next problem is money. The less money you have the more important it is to do some calculations and research before spending the money. Because if you buy something too cheap it's not going to work and you have to spend even more money to buy something else of better quality, later.

Throwing more power at it without knowing if that's actually the problem could make it worse. Bigger motors have more inertia so you'll get more regenerative energy. IMHO, 250W should be plenty for a FFB wheel. Many people here drive their motion rig with 250W motors.

So I'd suggest we first need to find out how much torque and speed we need. Then we should calculate the optimum gear ratio to make the best use of the torque of the motor. For example, you could attach a string to the outer side of a spoke on your steering wheel. Hang a bucket on the other end and fill it with water until the torque feels good. 10kg at a radius of 15cm means 15Nm of torque. Let's say max speed is 2RPS = 120RPM.
Power = 2pi * torque * speed = 188W. That's peak power. It would be very exhausting to apply so much force for more than a single revolution. I guess max. continous power of <50W is more than enough.

Thanks for reaching out brother I have visited most of the forums and almost watched every youtube video possible (fyi is only gave half assed info ) but it didn't help at all I get what your saying with the torque and stuff my motor will give about 2650 rpm +/- 5% and 0.89nm base torque I think 1:4 /1:5 will satisfy my ffb needs I did the math for this shit and hope it works
But the main problem ain't that it's about that dum piece of shit bts driver that magical works for some ppl while I got 4 of these and even ran them in parallel but that dum thing didn't work any thanks to Amazon return policy I got my money back so money saved.

This is my steering wheel if any is curious I know it bad but will have to do

And this is how I tested the motor:



Without using the steering wheel so make shift DD wheel kinda I guess

Well man u kinda brave here in my opinion, same motor drives crazy cart with me on board (85kg's) to over 20kph no problem, that thing will brake ur wrists....

1:5 with 0.89Nm from the motor will give you 4.5Nm at the output shaft. Although the motor will turn only around 600RPM instead of 2650 that should work quite well. I've found a thread where all the torque calculations are explained.

Haha, and I blamed people for not understanding what they do but I don't either. I thought all that cheap motor drivers like Sabertooth, Cytron and BTS are voltage mode PWM drivers. But for FFB you'd need a current mode amplifier. Is there a schematic somewhere how the leonardo board controls the current? I think there must be a shunt resistor and amplifier somewhere so that the CPU can measure the actual motor current.

With a 1:5 gear you shouldn't have problems with regenerative braking energy. Connecting a large capacitor like 4700uF 35V parallel to the supply should absorb all braking energy. No car batteries required.