DOF Reality P3 Ardino shield connector location

You guys are not going to believe this. For years now I have put off building a unit because of life and such. Of course I've kept looking on eBay and Craigslist during this time in the hopes I would find a deal on a platform. Then three weeks to the day that I cut my sim rig to pieces and start rebuilding it it a motion platform I find an Ebay listing for a non-motion race rig pretty far down the list for my "motion simulator" search results. Curious, I opened the listing. Nice rig. Nothing about motion till the last line that stated he would throw in a complete FREE, non-functional, DOF reality P3. So I messaged him. He had bought it used from someone, unaware that it was malfunctioning. Even with DOF Reality support he couldn't get it working correctly. He did say he was not even a little bit mechanical or technical, so I can understand him not being able to get it working. So I offered him a grand for it. He accepted. It was a 9 hour round trip but I picked it up today.
I've found a few issues so far. I think that there was probably one problem initially, but he and the original owner probably created the other issues in an attempt to repair it. I've corrected the mechanical ones. DR had sent him a new Arduino board. Which is good because the one in the box was bad. I still have to fix one of the sensor harnesses that got caught in a motor arm, and adjust all the sensors because they are not secured to the motor shafts correctly.
I also need to find the connector pin-out of the Arduino shield because the 2 connectors weren't connected to the shield. I hooked the red and black wire connector to the 5v and ground pins, but I'm not sure where the 3 wire sensor return connector goes. I know it connects to the analog input pins but not sure of the connector orientation or what pins to connect to. Anyone know?

That was exactly what I was looking for. Thank You!

https://www.tvdr.de/sim/2/firmware.htm

This should make it easier. I found that the original UNO board had been reset. I received 3 board with the unit. The 2 that he tried using as replacement boards were not R3 boards. Which is why I couldn't program any of them with the DR update. I ended up using the SCM3.ino from Github. This allowed me to dial in both pitch/roll motors. I'm using the SCM3 default setting shown in the DR assembly manual. These setting don't seem to work with the yaw motor though. Should this motor be set up differently?
I didn't realize that I would be unable to use SRS with the github version of SMC3.
I wish he had a version specifically for the P3. I may have to try modifying his ico file. Man I suck at programming Arduinos. Takes me forever.

Maybe it will suffice if you adjust this open source firmware to identify itself as your H3, and you might have a chance you can then use the official firmware updater to get it programmed as iit should be.

What you also could try is to find the appropriate firmware binary in the update tool package and then use a flashing tool to put that binary on to your arduino without going through their updater.

I changed the model to #define DOFR_MODEL 4 // model ID (5=H6, 6=P6) as well as the relevent data for that config. Then changed the version # to the corrct one. the DR utility is now seeing it correctly and allowed me to update it.
What is the file type of save/load in the SMC3 utility? Having to swap it back to the default settings each time is a PITA.

These motors just won't move with the DR programming. I use sine as the output mode. The blue, green, and yellow lines are moving but the motor is not. It's like it's in demo mode. This is not the case with the github version. Is there a way for me to still use SMS? Is the license tied to DR in some way?

Update: One of the replacement Arduinos had the DR programming in it. The board was recognized by the DR flash utility as a M1 board. When in fact it should have been an M2 board. I was able to change it to M2 and update it. Now the pitch/roll motors are working but the yaw one is still not. Not sure what the difference might be. I've verified the motor and sensor work by plugging it in to the @2 motor socket. Then I moved the IBT-2 connector from the #2 to #3 motor and also moved the sensor feedback to the correct in. What I found was that the driver is only moving the motor in 1 direction. Going to hook up the oscilloscope to determine of it's a wiring or driver board.
I feel bad for both the previous owners. They both paid for tech support and were left wanting to the point of having to sell this machine. I contacted DR and they wanted $50 just to talk to me.
I was just thinking that I have $1k, 8 hours of drive time, and about 9 hours of repair and diagnosis time in this. For all that I probably could have finished my rig and been flying by now .

Sorry, don't know anything about that. But at least you have a H2 now. So there is some real value in that. I see you have already found the discord server. Maybe another H3 owner might be able to discover how it works.

Ah, IBT-2 based. Yuck. I replied on discord.

Well it's up and running. found the #3 IBT-2 was bad. That was probably the initial issue. All the other burned, bent, and broken stuff was caused during the repair attempts. I'm going to finish building mine over the next week, then compare the two. I have a feeling that the horrible backlash in the DR motors and the screaming fans is just not going to be acceptable to me. We'll see.

Why is IBT-2 based bad? It's what I'm planning to use for mine. Is there a reason not to?

There's good reason they switched to the MD13s. IBT fails often