Jodino's rig

Hello simulator friends.

I have done some resurging and installed some software and made a test setup with some parts I already have. Like a Arduino mega and a simple motor driver and 5-wired encoder. As I progressed I saw there are a lot of problems to conquer with the Arduino software, when using these parts. So I have decided to buy the Arduino UNO with abt-2 drivers and a different encoder, which I see I other projects, and there seems to be the most information available, when using these parts.

Can you help me check my parts I want to buy and some other questions??
I want to
- play GT7 with Playstation 5
- built a 3 motor setup
- use Arduino Uno + ABT-2 + encoder

I have installed SMC3, Simtools 2 and 3 and Simhub to check it out. Simhub looked the simplest for Arduino and i hope to skip the need for running the GT7Proxy.

I have to little knowledge of Arduino. I have used the Arduino IDE for my 3D printer firmware. I can change values but I cannot write programs.

GT7Proxy.exe
I installed the GT7Proxy.exe to check if i could get this to work. It sees the telemetry from GT7 on the PS5, but it seems to have a delay of 10-20 seconds.

1. Where to look at for a fix of the delay?
2. I know I have to use GT7Proxy with Simtools, but do I need to use GT7Proxy.exe when running Simhub?

Motor selection
I looked at different types of motors. I think the wipermotors are to weak (max around 45 watt) to be future resistant and they cost about the same (new) as these motors I found.

3. Which ones are the most preferred and why is that?

Encoder selection
I see different types of position feedback. Also different people say different things about the compatibility with the software. I do not want to use a potentiometer, because of the lack of quality feedback.

4. Is this a simple plug and play encoder for the soft- and hardware I want to use?

Motor option 1 (with brass gear)

Motor option 2 (I don’t know the geartype of this one)

Motor option 3 (different geartype than option 2?)

Motor 4 I can buy these secondhand.

Encoder (3 pin)

Thanx!

I am thinking of a setup like DOF reality h3.
I was watching this setup, which is made of the same parts including the motor option 3.


I did not have it in 3D cad yet, because i want to choose the motors first so i can design with that specific motor, gear and Nm's. I started with the playseat...


My thinking at this moment is to make a basic design with a plateau where a can put on any type of static simset. I have an old playseat at this moment, which i might upgrade soon of later.

Is there a better option for the IBT2 which can be replaced without extra programming?

I checked the forum for an alternative IBT2. I found this,

If the IBT2 works and breaks later i will replace it with this.
And i set the voltage on the powersupply a little lower if possible.

I have bought some motors. 180W, 10A powersupplies, IBT-2 drivers and arduino uno (origional)

I started to leard arduino, so i can understand the files better.
I orderd some encoders and waiting for those.
I installed the SMC3.uno file on arduino and changed it to mode2 (no further changes)
I made a trail setup for testing with SMC3.
I also have an encoder from my cnc machine attached to the arduino, which SMC3 sees
I connected the wires like this example to the arduino and IBT-2



before i connect the motor i wanted to test the motor voltage output of the IBT-2
I connected a 12V powersupply and measured the motor voltage.
I thought i can see the voltage move with the SMC3 test.

PROBLEM?
i measure +12V on the input and measure -12V on the motor output
there is no program running yet! (except the arduino)

1. shouldn't this be 0V from startup?


2. when i turn the encoder the voltages moves very fast from -12 to +12v, like 0.1 degrees is an almost instant changes in voltages. Is a wrong encoder for this to test with?
i connected the A (encoder) to A0 (arduino)
(rotaray encoder ibest type isc5810-c01g-1024bz3-5-24f)

ok thanks.
i read that it would not work with pots.
and i wanted more consistant hall-sensors.
i orderd these. P3022-V1-CW360
which i saw multiple others use.
green ones from ali.
if 360 is a problem, i can change ratio 2:1
should this work without changing the settings in the code?

i don't understand the difference with the one i use now.
the resoltion is the same.
I think the signal works also the same.

Hello, thanks. Here is an update,

I made a design for the motor setup with encoder.
I received my encoders (360 dgr) and 3D printed a 1:2 gear and mounting plate.





the belt is made of flexibel 3Dprint material!


I made the parts and tested it today.
I have a video, could not upload it yet. I have a link to it

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1obAomn0NKLlbzScPW6uKeFEm8Kn6M0dJ/view?usp=sharing

I think it works like intended, Green follows the bleu line
I see a few thing: Do you know if this is good behaviour?

1)
The voltage i measure while testing is only +/- 2.5 volt.
The supply is 24V - 20A. I tuned the supply down to 22V, because i was told this is saver for my IBT2.
I couldn't change any parameter to get more voltage reading.
I would think it should be -22 / +22 volt.

(ok it tested some futher... When i put it in manual mode, i can test a wider range of motion. I see the voltage is much more and the movement is solid. There still is a noisy ratling sound when idle of slow speed. Too loud for using it...)

2)
The motor does not move fluid.
I tuned the parameters a bit, it approved but not convincing.
Could be the low voltage?

(when i do manual big movement, it is solid. But slow is rattling / nervous movement)

3) it turns only about 75 degree (+/- 37.5). I would expect to get it like 180 (+/-90) degrees with testing parameters. Is it a normal range of movement?

(When i do manual this movement is bigger. I can pullup the blue line to max and bottom. the movement is accordingly. Stil no 180 degrees, but more than 90 degrees. So this should be ok.

I think you mean these settings.



I have tested a few and read some posts en the manual a few times.
I tested the motor without PWM control (direct connect with supply). It moves silent then.
I also read some other people have the same noise.
I think a DC motor cannot stand stil and has to move a bit, so it does not stall.

But the wheelchairmotors (250W) on youtube DIY-sims dont make these noises.

I found these settings the most silent (but stil reasonably strong / fast).
So i wanted to test is with simhub.

I tried simhub.... and simhub sees my playstation data from gt7!
So it reconises automatic because i have put in my PS5 IP adres (and opened the ports ont the router)

BUT,
Simhub does not connect to my arduino (i have the latest version of simhub)
Before i used SMC3 it did reconise my arduino.

my workflow:
I uploaded SMC3.ino and changed to MODE 2 -> check with simhub (it works) -> setup with SMC3 -> check with simhub (it does not work)..

if i connect the arduino (pull out the cable and plug it in again) simhub gives me a notify (serial port added - arduino com7 )? then stil does not reconise it?
i tried baud 9600. no effect. frustration.

The settings of the previous video are
Motor1_Kp=100
Motor1_Ki=1
Motor1_Kd=0
Motor1_Ks=1
Motor1_PWMmin=10
Motor1_PWMmax=100
Motor1_PWMrev=10
Motor1_Limit=10
Motor1_Clip=230
Motor1_Deadzone=0

I tested a lot of combinations. i don't think it is the settings. I understand the purpose of the settings.
The settings do a little to the sound. The higher the numbers the higer the sound. (restless motor)

I did a test without the belt (no direct feedback AND no SMC3 running: only arduino and powersupply)
The sound was still there, but when i turned the hallsensor by hand, it became quite sometimes.

I was thinking: maybe a filter on the output of the hallsensor will help.
I did a software filter in arduino. with the help of chatGTP (you.com)
implemented in de code.

then the noise was gone.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1jGti_SMCbXUdqyMjKAdILE3_Qs443f7T/view?usp=sharing

after this i tried SMC3 again.
The noise was the same.
The PWM signal (yellow line) was also restless.

i am thinking it could be SMC3-utillity, which is causing the restless motor behaviour.
By hand there is no problem with the arduino SMC3 code running.

I will try some other values of the software filter.
But i think SMC3 does not do something with this filter.
I will try a hardware filter (i have some 10 uF capasitors to try).

--

update,

i have tested the capacitors. There was not much difference. i tried 10 and 0.1 uF between output and gnd.

Although the sound is there with SMC3 running, i see my yellow line (PWM) jumping around.
The higher it jumps the more sound it makes.

Can this be something to check of filter? - so for for today.

I have rewired my testing setup en removed some connections by soldering. I think the noise was improving. Then setup the parameters again, aiming for a "synchrone" of the pwm signal with the sinus.

I found that the noise come back when setting Kp around 300, with this renewed setup.
Ks = 10, but i do not really notice its effect.

most of the little arduino wires were not connecting firmly. And the wire within is very thin. Some i will order some connector shields for a 100% garanteed firm connection and wires.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1j-QLSWBY7elOJ8ympFz2G-Piy1CsZgOD/view?usp=sharing

settings are:
Fpid/1
Kp=250
Ki=0
Kd=0
Ks=10
Fpwm= 30kHz
PWMmin=20
PWMmax=150
PWMrev=150

I will go to testing with SimTools and / or simhub.

Hello, Thanks Noorbeast for your support!

i have connected simtools2, setup my axis, drove a 1 round single race, patched. then tested manual with game engine and it reacts on my input.

then i started LFS te see if it moves when driving but it doesn't.

simtools says it is connected with LFS (green)

i have downloaded the manual and checked my setup.

Can it be that i did the LFS round (before patching) wrong?
i tried a few times (unpatch, 1 round single race, patch)

the motor works every time in testing mode.
And it get connected with LFS and game manager and game engine