2dof to 3dof DIY Seat mover

Yup just charged up the headset for a call, Had it die 1/2 way through last time. All Soldered up and ready to get going again.

whats your thoughts on the motor's I linked for buddy's rig ?

Yep, they look fine, buy them and thrash them.

@Nick Moxley nice idea of a set screw , might have to pinch that idea.

Ok let me run through setting the pots in the Jrks, This is pretty much standard for all types of pots , linear and hall.

1. Make sure the Jrk is plugged into the usb port and pot is connect as well as the motor.
2. DONT turn on the power to the motor.
3. Open the Jrk configuration utility.
4. Connect to the Jrk in question.
4. Move the motors arm connected to the pot to confirm that its the right motor, as in the graph will move.
5. Select the FeedBack Tab
6. Press "Reset to full range"
7. Press "Apply setting to the device"
8. Now move the lever to its proposed centre , by hand. Check the graph, I like to set this close to 50% so that I know I have the same amount of movement up as down.
**** Take a measurement from a reference point on the base to the centre of the bolt in the connecting rod, this is Centre.
9. Press Learn.
10. Now move the lever to its Max position which if using 80mm of throw you measure from the reference point to the centre of the bolt and should be Centre + 40mm.
11. Press Ok - to set the position.
12 Now move the lever to its Min position which id using 80mm of throw you measure from the reference point to the centre of the bolt and should be Centre - 40mm.
13. Press Ok
14. Press "Apply setting to device"

Now we need to test this for direction, easy to set backwards. Doh!!
Make sure power is turned on to Jrk, DONT start the Motor yet.

1. Click on the Motor tab
2. Click on "Detect Motor Direction"

Follow the on screen prompts , set the lever to the centre and apply some resistance to the connecting arm as it will kick and kick hard.
Once test is completed it will inform you whether it is inverted, if it does invert it. Press "Apply setting to device"
Then you can simply test it in the Input tab, and happy move onto the other motor and follow the same steps.

If you feel these motors don't have enough punch then tickle the Max Duty cycle and Acceleration in the Motor tab for more speed or power.

Hope that helps.

awesome that got me setup, but still have a few more Questions about profile editing/Saving that im a little confused about. Skype to the rescue.


Thanks a million buddy

All setup again with a few tweeks with Robbies help to get it "PERFECT" Problem was i had One side that just wasn't sitting level no matter how many times i "learned" the min and max setting's....So it took some tweeking in the min/max settings manually. Thanks Robbie,

Ordered another pair or JRK's today and those motor's i linked for buddy's Rig. Man i love building stuff. lol

beawdy! you should be like the rest of us in no time, 14 rigs built in 3 years.

Warning ,Warning " Sim Building is Addictive"

oh shut up.......

Lol, well the past few days have been interesting, Was rockin the sim the other day with a buddy and im sitting behind the rig and happen to feel some wetness around my feet. WTF did i spill something lol. Nope the Spring thaw has officially started and the water was a Flowin. Not really a flood but a steady flow of water was trickling from underneath the wall. (basement corner room) So Up came the carpet in that corner and I have since been mopping up about 2-3 ice cream pails of water. Yesterday was more like 5-6 pails.

SO likely hood of having the foundation dug for a Spring time thaw issue is unlikely. So here's my temp solution. DriCore. Other side of my room is where the floor drain is located, So water can flow under my room, to the drain on the other side.

Started at 9am finished at 4 and just some organizing of junk to go. The Rig sat and watched the whole time as it aint fitting through the door. lol

bugger, time to get the waterproofing done right....again

hrmm well this sucks...., went for a few laps tonight and had a few funny feeling's from the right side and decided to stop and look, well the lever was beyond my MAX setting's somehow and now the Hall effect is Locked and no longer function's, What would cause this ? Almost thinking my old "flexy" pot mounts were hiding an issue.

Ok so i Took the little C clip off and managed to wiggle the pot free, Its not Silky smooth as it was new but its back up and running when testing in the JRK utility, Upon further inspection it appears on of my motor's has a LOT of side lash in the main gear to the box. I might look into finding a proper size shim and taking that play away as this was technically pulling/pushing on the pot each time it changed direction. Im also going to contact the seller of the motor to see what he has to say, Maybe get a replacement.

Have any of you guys experienced the gear lash ? if so how does it affect your pots ?

What does it mean your Hall effect pot is Locked and no longer functions? Mechanicaly locked, can't move?

EDIT: Nevermind, I see what you mean from next post.

You should try to mount the pot directly on the motor if it's possible, then when the motor moves/play the pot will move with it, it will not damage the pot like in your case if it's mounted independently.

One of the good things about the Hall Effect pots is that they have no end stop, so they are pretty hard to destroy if things go astray. Cannot see how gear lash would hurt the pots (makes for poor response of the sim though), or are you saying that the bearings for the gear box drive shaft are shot?- from the photos it looks like the pot is direct drive and mounted to the the motor mount.

What happens when the pot is not mounted on the motor and mounted on the base, is that on hard and fast direction changes can cause the motor to flex from its mounts and this will place bad strain on the pot shaft and its bush, causing the pot to lock up. I know of one other who's pot locked up from bad placement, funny thing was cheap pot worked fine in the same location once mounted to the gearbox he hasn't had an issue. I would be hitting the supplier for warranty of pot worth a go.

yep, depends on mounting bracket for pots as I found out
Like this the pot shaft was getting pulled and pushed and broke a pot in no time, good thing they were $3 jobs

Now I mounted them like this and the pot bracket moves with the flex of teh motor, no more broken pots. And as they are 360 deg turn, they cannot break from overshoot at all.

My motor mounts are welded to the steel frame, basically zero flex. His looks like they are mounted to the same steel mount as the motor (see attached image below), so flex between them should be also zero. I think the flex/movement he is talking about is to do with the actual gear box drive shaft.

YES the gear box itself, There's ZERO flex in my mount to the motor. And its only one motor that has the lateral play. I asked Pgsaw if there's anything that can be done, Im 1/2 tempted to pull the box and try and shim it first. Workin on it as i type.

Ill also send element a email and see if there willing to help out.


Pgsaw just replied, Ill be opening the box and inspecting and taking pics for him....Ill let you guys know.

Gear box appears to be up to spec, but the main gear still has an abnormal amount of play between the gear box and the main gear bearings. Pics and explanation send to pgsaw, so lets see what he has to say about it. Strange as the other motor has just a Slight Slight tick of play, So I'm assuming something's genuinely up with the right side gearbox.


Re motor Flex, the 4x4 Angle Iron i used is RIDICULOUSLY heavy duty. the Motor's will RIP the 7 - 3 1/2" Screws from the 2x4 base before the angle ever deflects or tweeks to the motors.

Ok so i shimmed the gear box and eliminated 99% of the play and still spun super freely, So i guess problem solved for now ? Ill remount the pot and give it a whirl.






Im kinda looking forward to seeing these new motor's for buddy's rig and how the gear box is on them.