2DOF Simulator by a Newbie

Surge is car accelerating , so a smaller number in tuning centre, and braking, use a bigger number so you dont get thrown too far forward.
Surge also gives gear changes effect as well as a jolt.
Sway is the car leaning in corners, so even numbers there.
heave is bumps. I run my heave on most games about 0.5 down to 0.05 at set force at about 20%. You may need to adjust the force. The lower number gives finer bumps on roads, each game is different, so just keep that in mind.
Pitch is the car going up and downhills.
Roll is the camber of the track, so ideally lean in when going around an embankment of a oval circuit.
I run all 5 on a 2DOF. But I work out each one first, when I am happy, I then mix them all up and adjust if I need.

BSFT Where do you change those in tuning center, or is it possible you have already done a file that i could test

I dont have file like that. But heres some info that may help , thanks @eaorobbie
I go to axis assignments and I start with surge, I set force at 50% , for dof 1, then I set the direction of the motors, then I go into game and do a test to see if the frame moves the right way (back under gas , forward under breaks), and I also get the tuning centre and do a capture max min so find numbers. Once I play a bit in game, I click stop on capture max min, then I pause the game, then I go back to tuning centre, click capture max min, then I untick the little box above the number , and I change the numbers manually to more of a whole number, example surge on min might be 10 and max on 20. (I think, I dont have a sim pc going ATM). After that , I click save settings, then go back into the game and go for a lap, changing gears, breaking, accelerating , to see if I like the way the frame behaves, I may change one or both the numbers a bit till its right.
Once it is, I pause the game, then I close the game manager, so the axis assignments can show up in settings of game engine, I write down what my settings were for surge. I then wind the percentages to 0 , then I move to dof2 and do the same with sway, set to 50% , set the direction of motors, start game manager and go back into game, go for a drive, make sure the car leans the right way, if it doesnt, I pause the game, close game manager, change direction if I need, click save, restart game manager, go into game, go for a drive, and set the numbers in tuning centre till it feels right.
I do that with each individual force till each one feels right, or close to it.
If I find a force is too harsh, especially heave, I usually set that 20% and I fiddle with numbers.
Rinse repeat with all forces chosen , then once each is set, put them all in and go for a spin , and fine adjust if you need to .
Cheers, David.

Thank you

Just spent 5hours after work yesterday try to calibrate but gave up. Will try to today with your method.

@bsft :your frame moves back under gas and forward under breaks, as the mine did before. @value1 gave me a input to try out the opposing direction. If the seat moves forward while accelerating the pressing simulates IMO a more real feedback. Check it out and give us a short feedback

With a seat mover we do the opposite movements, simulates what goes on inside the cabin better, full frame I could see it feeling better, but the gear change would feel weird as now it would thrust you forwards on a gear change, see in a seat mover we simulate the rear dropping down under accel as a car does this , under accel it lifts its nose and drops its rear and under breaking it drops its nose and raises its rear, hence we use it backwards to simulate the cockpit movements truly, look at whats going on with the graphics on screen.
If going the opposite way , would not feel correct to me, as in mmm cars nose dipping under brakes and Im rocking back mmmm

Will do alot testing later also posting some videos.

Im still amazed how strong those wiper motors truly are.

As a seatmover they should last a while, weakness happens when they are overloaded with a full frames weight the main spur gear begins to chew out, slowly but surely till the backlash then destroys them, as a seatmover they shouldn't chew out , well depending on how big of a driver you put in it too.
Be cool to see it running.

Well the motors are strong, but must also admit that stronger motors would for sure provide me with more smooth motion.

I still need to do a new lever solution on the motors before i dare to push it to the limits.

In this coming weekend i will do some cabinet work. smoothing the edges, paint job and so on.

thats fine if you have belts on your seat. I dont. I use @eaorobbie method for ages, it works for me.

I know i promised a video today, but did not had the time yesterday. But i did had time to some finetuning
and finally got the idea of how the programs works. still some small things i need to have clarified.

will get back later today.

A little teaser, more 2 come later.

Looks good man. I will say though is that the motor brackets need reinforcing, like steel angle welded along the edges to keep it steady. That will help the motors run better as well.

Nice job @mugge66. Very neat!

Mike

Wow , Now with some clever profiling the rig is alive, well done. Wow !!!!

Hi all

Did a lot of testing this week, it really works well i must say. or did work great. this morning i just turn the power on and something shortcuit and one of the psu for the motors and psu in my computer blew up. dont know what happended. !!!

If you have a suggestion for a better psu to drive the motors ideas are welcome

so it will be a looong sunday without any driving.

I have dont alot of testing with iracing, great game i must say but also alot expensive.

rats.
I take it you had the usb cables still connected to the computer when you fired everything up. That will nuke a PC , JRKS, motor and goodness knows whatever else it likes.

What power supplies are you using now?

Power supplies can bomb themselves. I have bought many from one supplier in China, and one of them had a loose screw in it and nuked itself. Fortunately it didnt take out a jrk or my computer. The supplier wanted me to send the power supply back to them at my cost, they would evaluate and replace and ship back to me at my cost.
No chance, I bought another from somewhere else.

for the time being , you can use a car battery and have one of your power supplies constantly charging it. but remember, when you have finished, unplug psu from battery and unplug battery from jrks

iracing is expensive with all its add ons, not to mention the time consumed to get anywhere.
hence I dont play it.

Think I will try your advice on Car battery. Do I need one battery for 1 JRK or can I use both on 1 battery. will try an 60amp battery.

I use a 50amp/hr Car Battery on my 2dof rig, plus charger too as it drains down in about 4hrs to slight notice in overall speed.
Led power units and even server psu , seen decent strong cpu psus converted over too, but normally requires 2x psu's but really overall cost here in Australia its no cheaper than a car battery, I used it because I had it there already.