Showroom DIY 2DOF simulator

that's what I thought too,
thanks.

Changing my gearbox from 25:1 to 50:1 allowed me to gain precision and response time by reducing the inertia related to the shift of heavy platform.
It also allowed me to gain safe because even when the power is off, the simulator remains perfectly still.
I had to change dramatically the PID parameters, because acceleration or braking are insane if the parameters are a little too aggressive !
The control sticks perfectly to the set, which increases the immersion.

But don't forget though that if I increased gearboxe, I also took an engine that has a higher turnover rate.
before : 1500 rpm / 25:1 / 60 rpm out / 10 Nm
after : 3200 rpm / 50:1 / 64 rpm out / 30 Nm

backlach ?

my motors are 3600 prm and 25:1 standard here, about 150 rpm at shaft.

fantastic

In the first post

x DC motor ZYT90-155
2x Gearbox 25: 1 MCP4
2x Pololu JRK 12V12
2x Power supply 12V - 45A
2x Potentiometer PPC27 10k

Why used tow Power put pressure on the converter

I don't understand the problem... One power supply for each JRK...

ok Why do not we use the one Power for tow JRK board

What are the problems that happen

Simply because it is possible that the system requires for a very short time a large current spike. The easiest way is to use two power supplies 45-50A in my case to solve this problem rather than of 90-100A.
If a problem on one of the "branches" of the circuit happens, only one power supply will have to be changed, which will cost much cheaper !
In addition, two power supplies will be easier to cool in this case the surface for heat dissipation is doubled.

I have 2 sims, one uses 2 x 12v 40 amps psu
the other use 1 x 12v 30 amp psu and one car battery in parallel.
If you were to use one power supply, it would have to be over 80 amps.

You could use smaller power supplies in parallel i.c.w. skotty diodes (NTST30100CT). If you use two skotty dioded per supply, to reduce the internal voltage, the dissipation will be minimal when the simulator is in full swing. The skotty diodes can be easily installed (screwed) to a solid piece of copper strip, a busbar, for the "feed" and a common negative to another copper strip. If all is connected you can power up and adjust the voltage difference between the power supplies, by using the adjustment screw on them and measuring between the actual +12Vdc of each supply. In this set-up the price of the power supplies is low, 12vdc/15Amps = €25,00 + €3,50 for two diodes, there is better heat dissipation as the heat sink surface is much bigger and smaller power supplies are easier to install into the rig.

nice idea @Martin van Hagen , however, the 12v is standard, its the current drained thats the issue. Depending on the motor a current drain of 30 amps per motor average with 40 amp peaks is expected. Thats per motor.
You would need 2 x 20 amp psus per motor minimum.

Ok ..... I understand this idea

Now If linked three motors on adapter 36v 20 A

Is the division of AMP On three motors or what
happened

power supplies is series increase voltage.
power supplies in parallel increase current.
Problem is that power supplies can fail easier than batteries, hence use one power supply per motor, or use a car battery as main power source with a power supply charging it during use.
Battery absorbs any back flow of current.
Power supplies can handle it as well, but running one power supply for two motors can be an issue.

@bsft : By internal voltage I was referring to the voltage drop across the skotty diodes and the heat that will be dissipated when the current is flowing to the 12Vdc bus. A cascade system, as this is called, has the advantages as mentioned earlier. To monitor if a power supply fails a simple 12vdc relay(Normally Open contact) direct on the output terminals of each power supply and the contacts in series connecting up to a 12vdc buzzer, or any other monitoring device, will indicate that there is a power failure. In your example 3 supplies per drive should perform nicely.
The battery is a good power source but also more dangerous, since it stores a lot of energy, it is heavy to handle, you require a beefy isolation switch to power down the drives and contains acid, which I would not like to have in my house.

wheres your sense of adventure

OK

if you have (board motor) Bear 2 amp

if i linked (motor 36v 2 amb) with Adapter (36v 10 amp)
Are burning Board Or buy Board bear 20 AMP

That's why mine encased in a proper box with proper DC isolators that come with the box, Acid free (gel battery) I can provide as much as 140amps in short bursts or 50amps all day long without the need to recharge. But in turn I have a commercial grade battery trickle charger and conditioner on the battery, used in most motor homes and solar technology today only idiots can hurt themselves with a DC battery. Anyone can electrocute themselves wiring 240v and the insurance man wont payout on that stuff up. I rather use a DC battery or proper dedicated PSU that is wired for 240v from the supplier, any goes wrong its his insurance paying not mine.

Ciao desideravo Sapere perchè vengono aggiunte delle molle alla base? Grazie per la pazienza

This is an awesome build and serves as the model for what I'm doing. I'm just getting into this but one thing I don't understand - why did you reverse the shaft in one of the gearboxes? Is this just for aesthetics ?I assumed the software can adjust as needed.

makes it easier to some extent if the shaft faces the other way when setting up.