Showroom Obutto R3volution (Revolution) 2DOF Simulator Conversion

The all thread bolt coming out of the motor is 1/2" and the pot is a 1/4 diameter

Ok how i worked around the 1/2" bolt was to use 12mm Couplers Unfortunately the 1/2" is a hair too big, But since your only clamping a Very small amount of the bolt. So Before Welding on my Nuts to the lever, I chuck up the Axle bolt in my Drill press and use some sand paper to Bring the O.D. down to where it fits in the 12mm coupler tight but not Overly tight to cause issues with getting it lined up "True"

Realizing with axle bolts welded and such this might not be a possibility. But its how i found a way to work with 12mm Axle bolt(buddies motor's) and My Axle bolt size which is the 1/2" I ordered smaller 6.35 to 6.35 for me thinking i had already drilled my Axle bolts to 6.35 I was going to use a little 6.35 extension from the axle bolt to the Coupler to the pot, But to this day even with the few lock up's i had in the beginning my Original pots are still going strong.

@Nick Moxley Ah didn't think about doing that. I will be looking into that, do you happen to have a link handy to the couplers that you used for that?

Yupp here ya go

http://www.aliexpress.com/item/3pcs...ft-Coupler-Connector-Diameter/1636922680.html

And Fwiw here a link to the rod ends i use.

http://www.aliexpress.com/item/4pcs...ight-hand-tie-rod-end-bearing/1559309095.html

Sweet thank you, that is sticking cheap for those rod ends. Mine were 15 a piece . If I change my seat to a hard back like yours I'll be looking into those

No problemo buddy, I Hunt for the deals and these have turned out to be Fan Freekin Tastic. The "ball" design is going to ensure the balls stay true for a long time, Not to mention they have rubber boots and have grease in them. They should last a really really long time.

I plan to mount everything to the same board (then cover with aluminum diamond plate) but the seat with the SCN5's will be separate from the Obutto on the base board. I'll check out your links regarding the swivel for the 3dof and see if I can get some ideas. Thanks!

How does this motor setup differ from the SCN5 setup? I noticed that SCN5's tend to be squeaky when being used by some videos I've seen. Is your option quieter? How does the motion in these compare to the SCN5 setup? Are they about the same?

Thanks!

Faster, Quieter and WAY Stronger for starter's......Yes You are correct, SCN5's Squeak like a mofo and I for one am very sensitive to some of the mechanical sounds of my rig and personally not know i would NEVER be able to own actuator's for the sheer sound factor. That is unless the rest of my family goes Deaf and im allowed to run the volume at 11 ALL the time.

Haha, nice Spinal Tap reference...I'm really liking your setup but as you know I'm brand new to this. I noticed in your posts that you had to cut the pipes and weld something together? Is that necessary? I'm pretty sure I can solder the wires to the jrk board but I don't have any tools to cut pipes or weld. I don't mean to ask for too much here, but would be able to provide any kind of step by step instructions for Dummies on how you did this? I think the squeaking of the SCN5 would drive me crazy too and I'm building this by my home theater setup so the three kids and wife would probably murder me eventually, lol!

@Ben Selph there are sort of step by step instructions, best start your own thread and we can advise from there.
And for reference, my "brikie" actuators grind like a wood saw in action, so DC motors are a lot better for noise level and they perform just as well and better than SCN products.
Match then to JRKS for that though.

+1 @Ben Selph Start a thread and we can guide you and answer your question's there.

Hi Nick, I've started one already called 'My first 3dof motion (Advice?)' or something similar. I'll just check on that thread from now on. Thanks!

Quick (small) update. 2dof still going strong; however, many changes are in the works for the rig. Taking everything to a metal frame and adding drift to her. Fanatec v2 base (is suppose to) ships end of this month, recently upgraded shifter to Fanatec ClubSport shifter. Also plan on redoing my box that contains the electronics as well as changing out the current PSU to either batteries with a charger or just better power supplies. Will start posting more when work begins to take shape on frame..

oh yea ps: I recently ditched my GTX 670 with two sexy GTX 970's

Where did that 670 go eh ?

Haha we got my dad into sim racing so he is currently using it in his computer. If he upgrades to a better card I'll let you know; however, my 670 was only a 2GB card so it might hurt you more than help you when you SLI because it will only use 2gb on your 4gb card then

Lol Worth a shot right ? I think i remember you mentioning that when we had that chat, No worries I'll enter the 21'st century sometime and buy myself a fancy modern card. Summer RC car budget bye bye.

Oh yeah they will and then some. These overclock right aroun what the Gigabyte ones will do. Currently have mine at 1501mhz on gpu and 7410 on memory. It'll go a a little higher but I wanted to keep them super stable seeing as a crash in a long race would piss me off

Let me know what you get yours clocked to