Showroom My 3 DOF seat mover + GS-4 + Simvibe

Yeah, it looks like it is turned right down. Usually their rigs move a lot more.

This video is better. And you can see they use the same sort of belt tensioner that I use. (around 1:35 in to the video)

I am still playing around with mine. I am going to try some stronger springs.

I tried this belt tensionning system on professionnal 2DOF sim: it's very immersive!

Haha, I fully intend on wearing my race shoes if/when I get my sim done. I'm just too clumsy in reg shoes otherwise while trying to work the pedals. Either that or no shoes.

just wear socks

heel-toe shifting isn't at all comfortable in socks in my experience. Shoes are somewhat required.

I have size 13-14 US footsies, so socks for me as I am not going to splurge on racing shoes.
I manage to heel toe and reach for da shifter.

just use gaffa tape to hold you in

The DSD pedals I use have really rough grip tape on them and they just rip socks apart.

So boots are pretty much required.

One of my friends tried out my pedals in his street shoes and you can see how much rubber it took off



It even wears down my race boots. This was after my first couple of races



After each race I need to sweep up all the little rubber marbles left behind

Very much so but they do feel fantastic to use. You never have to worry about your feet slipping off the pedals.

He seems to have Heave and Traction Loss only enabled the others are really low. Maybe it is how he likes it?

No, I use Sway, Surge, Heave, Roll and Pitch.

I haven't posted a video yet (that wasn't my videos above)

I just finished my first race with my belts and OMG was it fun. I was pretty sore by the end of it. Formula 3 at Cascavel in Game Stock Car. So much fun.

And the GS-4 is working so well with the seat mover.

I am just waiting on one last thing then I will do a video.

Wow, what a thread!
Very informative and the rig looks great - good on you

So after a bit of use I have found that the JRK's can't quite handle to current needed to drive these motors hard. I mean they run fine if I limit the duty cycle down but even then in some more extreme corners I can hear the JRK's tripping out.

When we did some testing we found that the motors were peaking at over 70 amps each.

I have been looking at some more powerful controllers and I found these ones https://www.pololu.com/product/1499



They control 2 motors so I would only need one of them and they come in 2X15A (2x30A peak) 2X30A (2x60A peak) 2X60A (2x120A peak)

I was thinking of using the 2X60A (2x120A peak) one that way I have no problems with overloading them.

What do you guys think? Could I get it to work like the JRK's or am I just better off limiting the JRK's and living with what I have?

I do not believe the software has been written for the RoboClaw to interface with simtools.

Check this thread out:
http://www.xsimulator.net/community/threads/robo-claw-motor-controller-new.6010/

@Avenga76 , please post ALL screens shots of ALL tabs of BOTH jrk utility screens

Thanks @kopper I have posted on that thread, hopefully we can get some support for those drivers

@bsft Here are the screenshots. Both controllers are set the same.

These is the config that I get working the best. It can handle 400 duty cycles for a short while but if it is too bumpy like off track, or Carousal at Nords or sometimes but not often turn one and two at Cascavel then the JRK's will trip out.

I think if I limit it down to 350 then it runs fine but I start clipping a bit too much.

I have tried turning down the Max Acel and it didn't help. Limiting the current didn't seem to do much. They are still pulling 70A

If I watch what happens when I get the motor driver error, on the Duty cycle graph the duty cycles will go up to 400 but then jam and stay at 400 and the JRK will start switching the motors on and off quickly until they recover and the duty cycles will drop back down.

What I hear and feel when this happens is the motor will stop moving and I will hear a clicking as the JRK switches the motors on and off.

If I watch it on a oscilloscope then I will see the motors peak at 70A+ then the JRK killing power to the motors then switching the power back on then the motors jump straight back up to 70A overloading the JRK's again and the cycle repeats. If I hit my kill switch and wait a second then the problem goes away, and usually the JRK's will recover by themselves after about half a second.

Reading the JRK manual it says

• Bit 2: Motor driver error
  This error occurs when one of the motor driver’s fault conditions are triggered, and the motor driver shuts down the motor and reports the error to the jrk’s microcontroller. This error also occurs when the jrk is connected to USB and motor power becomes disconnected. When this error occurs, the jrk will try to automatically recover from it by toggling the appropriate lines on the motor driver. The jrk 21v3’s motor driver fault occurs on under-voltage, over-temperature, or over-current conditions. The jrk 12v12’s motor driver fault occurs when it detects that motor output A is shorted to ground or VIN.

I think the current is too high so that JRK's are detecting it as a short.

ok I can see problems with your feedback as a start.
Did you manually type in numbers?
I am guessing you didnt turn the pots and set the feedback how it supposed to be done

Guide to setting Feedback on 50:1 and 60: 1 gearbox motors

With the 50:1, 60:1 gearboxes which are near impossible to turn by hand

Set the pot up on a bracket on the motor gear box, so the pot reads directly off the motor shaft.

with setting the feedback, once I fitted a lever, I unscrewed the gearbox from the motor and turned it but hand to the most level position I could. Then I screwed it back on.

Next step there was no 12v power on, just the usb cable power

Setting feedback, with the pot connected with its shaft to the gearbox, I opened the utility program, went to feedback tab, click "reset to full range" , clicked apply, the I unscrewed the nut holding the shaft and using a permanent marker texta, I rotated the pot body around and I looked in the graph, (top right hand corner) , in fact I double clicked it to make it bigger. I turned the pot till it started to show a reading of the line. Once I found the 50% mark, I put a mark of texta on the motor housing and a mark on the pot body so I knew where the centre was, from that point I turned it slowly one way till I found the near 80% mark, put a texta line, then turned it the other way till I found the 20% mark in the graph, marked it again with a texta. Then I moved the pot back to the centre.

Now I know where I need to set my max min.

With the pot shaft still loose and no 12v power, I clicked the "learn" button and slowly rotated the pot body one way till I got to my first texta mark, click "ok" as that was my "max" settings, then rotated the pot body the other way till I got to my minimum mark, clicked "ok" , then apply settings.

Then I rotated the pot body back to my centre spot and tightened the nut holding the shaft body.

I then went to the MOTOR tab and set in max accell 100, max duty 100, max duty while feedback out of range 100, current calibration 130. This makes the motor move slowly so once you test, you dont risk breaking anything because you have a chance to stop the motor.

Then I applied 12v power and went to the INPUT tab of utility and ticked the box "automatically set target", clicked run motor, and I moved the slider to see if the motor moves up and down from centre.

If it does something like spin right around and stop, try changing motor direction and or feedback direction in the appropriate tabs in utility program.

To get the actual centre position more spot on, I wrote the current feedback numbers on paper, then I manually change the feedback numbers up or down 50 at a time , applied settings, moved motor in input tab slider, and did this several times till I got it about spot on.

The max current can be set to 0, unlimited as sometimes with a setting like you have, it can trip the JRK out.
Drop current calibration down to 100
in INPUT tab , tick the box "never sleep (ignore usb suspend)
In FEEDBACK raise analog samples to 1024

Also with your motors what is the rated current and or wattage on them?
Dave.

I did do it exactly like you described in your guide. when I did it by hand they were 1372 and 2356. but I found that that was a bit low

I then followed this step

"To get the actual centre position more spot on, I wrote the current feedback numbers on paper, then I manually change the feedback numbers up or down 50 at a time , applied settings, moved motor in input tab slider, and did this several times till I got it about spot on."

So when I tested it the bottom was low and the top was a tad low also. So I did as you said and manually changed the numbers up and down until the bottom, center and top of the movement was exactly where I wanted them. And then it worked out that 1600/2500 was the setting that got all my positions in the right spot.

I still have the piece of paper with all my original feedback settings and the measurements of the arms etc.

The motor is rated at 160W which would be 13A and the sticker on the motor says 7A but they draw 70A+ when in use.





The problem still happened when I didn't limit the current. Limiting the current does help a bit.

I will try your other settings tonight.