My first 2DOF seatmover project

I didn't mention it, but I'm a refrigeration system builder (hope the translation is right), so working with the estimated range in heat is not a big problem, but still there is no way to do it the easy way without taking that gearbox apart. Because there would be 2 welding points, 1 about 4 cm from the gear box (not so critical) and the 2nd about 5-8mm from the gear box (here's where I see the problem).
So I'm trying the cotter pins first (already done it earlier today) and if it doesn't work, then I guess there's no way around welding.
Thanks for the compliment, I just wanted to document all of the build so it could be in some way or another as helpful for others as many of those other build threads were for me

Hey guys, it took some time to make it, but finally I did it.
Here's a "short" video of my 2DOF running in Assetto Corsa on the great Nürburging Track:



Hope you like it and feel free to comment on this one

Looks great nice motion there well done

One thing it looks like your roll or sway is the wrong way around looks like you are leaning into the corners g force would push you away from the bends

It looks like it, yeah, but it works in the right direction, it just looks like it because of the track, there is a massive amount of movement compared to other tracks. At least does it work right when I drive in a straight line and turn the steering wheel left and right, so it should be the same on every track
I'm using only 4 forces at the moment (in the video too), because I'm not sure about how to adjust sway and wich direction is the right for it

Thanks @noorbeast

Good idea, then let's see what you guys think about those settings:



Thanks in advance for your opinion

theres no percentage set for sway, its still blank.
Try this for sway, set it at 20% and set the rest at 0% so you only feel sway.
Go for a drive and throw the car around a bit. Does the seat lean correctly? no? Exit the game and go back to axis assig. and change one or both of the highlighted boxes. Test, re-test, change as needed.
Also work with number in tuning centre so the seat actually moves.
Once you have sway moving right, them put other forces back up.

thanks for your time @bsft
that's how I've done it with the 4 forces that are already used (been reading your "how to" from the download section before), but the problem is that I don't understand what "sway" means in terms of how it should act (may be a translation thing, my first language is still german )
So what does sway do? Does it work like "roll"? Or should it work counterwise to "roll"? And how strong should the force be in comparison to "roll"?
I guess all the question will answer themselves after I understood what the force of "sway" does to a moving body.

Here is a pic that shows what forces mean what:


The arrows are showing the force direction, sway for instance is where the car would be sliding or drifting.
Roll is where the body and suspension contorts induced by turning. Surge would be used for acceleration and deceleration. Pitch would be used for variances in the road angle (not too sure what simtools actually does with surge and pitch, whether it assigns pitch for brakes as well as road angle. Need input from the experts as I haven't got my sim moving yet).

The pic should give you an idea of what axis covers which movement.

Sway is the car leaning, so when you turn right, it leans left and when you turn left , it leans right.
Roll is camber of the track
So sway and roll separately to get them right, sometimes roll will over some sway especially when you drive round and embankment track like an oval circuit

Okay, then I did more or less the same mistake again, again because at first I got pitch/surge wrong, that was a week ago. I thought pitch is for all braking/accelerating/downhill/uphill-movement, but bsft's "how-to" got me on the right path.
And this time I got sway/roll wrong, no wonder I didn't notice, most of the testing was on the Nürburgring and there are many "high camber" corners.
So back to adjusting those 2 forces and then let's see what's wrong next

I really have to thank both of you, how you explained it made it really clear to me what was wrong in my understanding, so thanks again @Alexey and @bsft

Once you get the basics down, Profile tuning will get much easier, you'll know what your supposed to be feeling and can adjust from there.

@Godslayer, its just a learning curve you have to go through before you can really enjoy your own home built simulator, all the same mistakes we all made .......it will be soon that you can fully enjoy what you have build !!

True true, at least the mechanical/electrical part worked out right from the start (more or less), only problems on the software side
I already enjoy it very much as it is right now, so I'm curious about the outcome when everything really works as it should, how much more pleasure it will be

Again I want to thank all those helpful hands

Hey guys, I finally had enough free time to do some adjustments to the missing sway-force, another step closer to reality
But after some testing I wanted to check on motor and chip temperatures, the results were like this:

Room: around 22°C-23°C
Wiper motors: between 45°C and 52°C on different motorchassis points
Wiper motor gearboxes: between 30°C and 35°C on different points
MM-chips: between 75°C and 80°C at the tips of the aluminum coolers
Ard-chip: 25°C

I did 3 three runs on Nürburgring and checked the temperatures after each one, but they were almost the same after the 2nd and 3rd run.

So, what are your opinions about this? Are those temperatures okay or should I put some more work into cooling the parts (guess the MM's need a fan)?

80 degrees is too much, you start to cook the thermal paste and possibly damage components.
You should aim for 60 - 70 degrees, maybe have a fan blowing on the fins.
Also if it's 80 degrees at the fins that means it would be far hotter at the core of the chip, I would avoid using the sim until you rectify the cooling issue.
Gearbox and motor temps seem ok, maybe some fans blowing across them for good measure.

The device I use actually measures surface temperatures, so no airflow needed for better measurement

Okay, then it really is time to put all those electronics in a box with some fans, a nice side effect would be a more tidy look of it

Thanks for your answer @Alexey

Very good work, congrats

Thanks @leaedman

I found some interesting stuff about temperatures and MM's: The data sheet for the chips used on those MM's (chip code is VNH2SP30) says that thermal shutdown happens around 170°C and maximum operating temperature is 150°C, so I should be more than fine with 80°C

But still been thinking about better cooling and while tinkering around with some ideas, I remembered that there should be some spare coolers lying around from my old pc.
Here are some pictures from a spare MM with my old cpu cooler mounted:



Okay, it would be overkill and a pita to make it fit, but on the other side still a funny idea
So here's the real thing I'll use:



This was used as a northbridge cooler on my old mainboard and should do the job much better than the ones I'm using at the moment wich achieved those "high" 80°C.
Here's how it looks right now as a comparison to those other two cooling options:

Hey guys,
does anyone know if it is possible to run 10-turn-pots with the SMC3 code? I ordered those on mistake to change them with the cheap chinese ones, but didn't see that they are 10 turns, not single ones
So, is there a way to scale the pot-inputs on the code-side or is it impossible?