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Showroom Barry's Racing Sim - IT'S ALIVE (with motorcycle capability (sometime in the future))

Discussion in 'DIY Motion Simulator Projects' started by Barry, Apr 10, 2014.

  1. vell

    vell New Member

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    We are waiting for the continuation of the project as well good !
  2. Barry

    Barry Active Member

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    Ok so i'm finally back on the wagon i think. I have a few projects out of the way and I've started to work on my frame. I need to make a decision on the traction loss part of the frame though.
    How to get the motion from the motor to the frame:

    Chain
    Toothed Belt with tensioner
    Lever with rods and tie rod ends
    Ring and spur gear (ring gear curve would have to match the sim diameter)

    What's the general opinions on the different ways to do it?
  3. Sebj

    Sebj Active Member

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    Hi, can I ask how you mounted and used the inline skate wheels for RTL?
  4. noorbeast

    noorbeast VR Tassie Devil Staff Member Moderator Race Director

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    Here are member examples of traction loss approaches: http://www.xsimulator.net/community/faq/traction-loss.174/
  5. Barry

    Barry Active Member

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    I haven't mounted those yet but they will be mounted in an arc on the base probably below the rear third of the frame. They will have metal rods through the center and will be mounted with steel tabs on either side, a bit like a very large curved inline skate.

    Thanks @noorbeast I had a read of some of these build threads. I suppose everyone has different ways of putting the frame together. I think I might need to just mock up a few ideas.
  6. noorbeast

    noorbeast VR Tassie Devil Staff Member Moderator Race Director

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    There are indeed a number of approaches and a mock up that suits your frame design ideas would be a good.
  7. Barry

    Barry Active Member

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    I got the metal cut at the weekend for the front of my frame. It'll be the section for holding the steering wheel and then I'll need to decide how to mount the gear shifter and pedals. The pedals will be adjustable. The gear shifter should be fine in a fixed position. I'm thinking that I might be able to somehow use the seat adjuster from a scrap car I have in my yard for moving the pedals.

    Next stage, make up the lower frame to mount my motors and then suss out where the traction loss system will be mounted.

    For the motors I think i'm going to try and go with a 25 degree angle on the rods from the shoulder mounts to the motor center going backwards and around 7.5 degrees of angle to the side.

    I'll post up some more pics as soon as I get the front of the frame welded up.
    • Like Like x 1
  8. noorbeast

    noorbeast VR Tassie Devil Staff Member Moderator Race Director

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  9. Barry

    Barry Active Member

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    They look a little familiar. They're like audi TT seat rails or maybe honda civic. Really flat and easy to work with. I think I only have VW rails at the minute and it's a center rail so maybe not ideal. I'll need to have a look around to see what I have available. Alternatively I could just get a set from ebay for £25. It might be easier than trying to fabricate a set.
    • Agree Agree x 1
  10. Nick Moxley

    Nick Moxley Well-Known Member

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    I Do not suggest skate wheels, They are Too soft and aren't really rated for the weight's of a standard rig, I managed to get mine working in the beginning, But i HIGHLY suggest you look into a set of Proper Castor's that are rated for 2-3X what the rig weighs, That way you'll have a Super Free moving TL table that the motor wont have a problem moving around. I also suggest a Rod and Lever setup, Its just plain easier and works.
    • Informative Informative x 2
    • Like Like x 1
  11. Barry

    Barry Active Member

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    Very useful info.
    I think I might make the brackets in such a way that I can slot a variety of wheels into so I have the ability to change them when I need to. I'll use the skate wheels to get it measured up and get the frame finished and then look into something more suitable. My main concern with traction loss is the noise of both the wheels and the bearing at the front although I have a plan to possibly upgrade the pivot at the front at some stage. For now I'm just going to go with a lazy susan bearing.
  12. Sebj

    Sebj Active Member

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    • Winner Winner x 1
    • Informative Informative x 1
  13. Nick Moxley

    Nick Moxley Well-Known Member

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    Lazy susan and quality Castor's like Sebj Just posted are Very quiet, You will NOT hear them over the game play.
  14. Sebj

    Sebj Active Member

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    Noise factor is more a wife factor :)

    As for practicality, I want to ensure smooth and quiet operation.
    • Like Like x 1
  15. Barry

    Barry Active Member

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    I started to make the motor mount templates last night. From cardboard first and then I'll cut them from 4mm plate steel. I also realised that the motherboard standoffs I bought for mounting the JRKs are slightly too big. The mounting holes are tiny on those.

    Things to work out or buy:
    Flex couplers
    Pot mounts
    Shafts for the middle of the motors
    Lever length (maybe i'll make ones with multiple holes for adjustment)
    Need to test power supplies
    Need to mount up JRKs and power supplies
    Weld up front of the frame to hold steering wheel and gear shifter
    Weld base frame and measure mounts for traction control motor.

    AND LOTS MORE!!!
  16. Barry

    Barry Active Member

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    I cut my 4mm steel plates last night for the motor mounts and I now have a small query regarding the way the motors get mounted.

    I have the crab pot motors from ebay as we've all seen. Typical round motor and black gearbox with 3 holes for mounting.

    So, do I mount the motors with the 2 holes at the bottom or the other way with the single hole at the bottom?
    Or does it matter? I assume there isn't a right and wrong way up. I was going to mount it with the worm gear at the bottom because it looks a little more compact.

    And is 4mm steel overkill for mounting the pots? I have much thinner material available.
  17. noorbeast

    noorbeast VR Tassie Devil Staff Member Moderator Race Director

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    You want the motor mounts to be solid. I use the 2 bottom bolt holes to mount the motor to the frame and a bar linking the motors with the single top hole, that way the motors themselves add structural rigidity: http://www.xsimulator.net/community/threads/dx-racer-compact-simulator.5866/page-5#post-65721

    Yes 4mm is overkill for the pots as it is better to use thin material with a bit of give in case of small misalignment, I use 2mm aluminium strips which are mounted to the motor itself rather than the frame: http://www.xsimulator.net/community/threads/dx-racer-compact-simulator.5866/page-5#post-65728
  18. Barry

    Barry Active Member

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    ok, I'll get some 2mm stuff. It'll be easier to bend anyway.

    My 4mm steel plates will be seam welded to my lower frame and the motors will be bolted to these using all 3 holes (using high tensile 8mm bolts I think). I'd be very very surprised if they ever twist or bend. I was going to mount the levers on the inside of the motors but now that I've seen that brace you've made I might fit them to the outside so I can also have a brace like that. Very clever use of a simple idea.

    I've measured up my rod angles to be 7.5 degrees out to the side and 25 degrees to the back.
    • Like Like x 2
  19. Barry

    Barry Active Member

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    Sent my motor mounts to a friend to have them cut nice and accurately with a mill.
    I also got the front of the sim welded up for mounting the steering wheel and I'll be welding on the gear shifter mount later this evening. I'll post some pics later as I can't access my pics at work.

    The next thing I need to work out is the motor shaft and how to attach it. I think I'm going to have one made with a keyway for the lever attachment. It'll require some thinking.
    • Like Like x 1
  20. noorbeast

    noorbeast VR Tassie Devil Staff Member Moderator Race Director

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    • Like Like x 2