Showroom My 3 DOF seat mover + GS-4 + Simvibe

Nice rig.

Nice rig.

Grettings

Cool. I will probably use hardwood also. Seems the cheapest and easiest.

Thanks, I run longer lever arms on my seat mover to make up for the slower gearbox so I might go for something like a 120mm lever arm.

Thanks

Thank u！ good web！

I just thought id note what I have is motion dynamics motors gearbox 50:1 ratio @3200 rpm so not quite as fast and I don't get the motor errors you kept getting here at all once running and I had a fair bit of weight on myself (I'm 98kg) and my seat etc weighs a bit with heavy frame. Hopefully its worked out okay for you eventually however as added speed would always be good, I did however have issues with my traction loss especially at 25:1 ratio as It didn't seem to have the torque required to move me well at all even with roller blade with bearings etc. I upgraded to a 60:1 recently and its been great and I would highly recommend traction loss now after using it, to me its far more beneficial then a surge layer and has a cool feeling. I have it set at about 100mm for 200mm total movement which is all you really need I feel after using it for awhile

Yeah, my motor driver errors are pretty much non-existent since I swapped from my 5,300RPM motors down to my 4,300RPM motor. I am pretty confidant that it is just the speed of the faster motors that cause the errors.

Those 3,200RPM motion dynamics motors seem to be the sweet spot for the JRK's, tons of people run them so I think that is the sort of motor that you ideally want to run on the JRK's

I am really happy with these smaller motors. They seem to handle the motion pretty well. I would still be keen to try some bigger controllers with the 5,300RPM motors but I am happy with the 4,300RPM ones for now.

For my traction loss I will be using one on my spare 5,300RPM motor with a 50:1 gearbox.

Hi ! I want to draw this picture，and what kind of software is needed? Thank U!

It looks like it is just done in something like Photoshop or GIMP. @eaorobbie would know for sure.

Hey @AlexinChina

You could just use the snip it tool in Windows to grab the picture you need from that drawing or from a google images search and then use Powerpoint to do that drawing. Its easy to move things around individually and add straight lines of different colours and widths. That is what I am doing for mine.

Thank U！I feel Photoshop and GIMP is too complex to draw this picture, it should have the software easier to use.

Good idea! Thank U!

Perfect setup.
Regards.

@Avenga76 - Sorry to revive an old thread in the JRK Motor Driver error issues you had, however, would you mind sharing what your final P/D settings were with the Max Duty and Max Accel you are using?

I've had a similar struggle, which at first I put down to Feedback errors, but then I watched the JRK tool output while I was playing games and sure enough the time the motors were going a bit silly was with a motor driver error.. I've adjusted my PID to be in line with your settings (mentioned in the thread) but keen to see what values you settled on.

Screenshots of both motors settings would be great. Thanks

@Archie

Here are my current settings with my smaller 4,300RPM motors





With these setting I only ever get motor driver errors very rarely while surging forwards under brakes but I think that is more due to the little motors having to move my fat ass I can tune the motion profile so I get zero errors if I can be bothered, it typically only happens on fast cars like formula cars so I just tone down the surge for that profile.

With my 5,300RPM motors I had to go much lower, something like 200-250 duty cycle and a 20ms brake duration.

Excellent. Thank you for that. I was certainly in the ball park then.

I notice your accel is half your Max duty. Do you find the motor's snappy enough at 250? I assume you do, as you've settled on that number.
I have mine set to 400 at the moment, with a few motor driver errors (MDE). DIRT Rally is the biggest culprit for me, if I hit a ditch with large sway then I get the MDE. Will dial it back and experiment.

Thanks again @Avenga76 - It's given me a good base to work from.

Yeah, I find it snappy enough at 250.

I have it set up that way so it takes 2 PID periods to get up to full speed. My PID period is 20ms so it would take 40ms for my motors to get up to full speed. I think that is quick enough.

Agreed, and once you get a decent motion profile down, it can make up for a "lack" of speed, to a point...
My actuators run at 260mm per second linear speed. I cannot go faster, but time spent with profiles has helped.
i could go "normal" DC motors for up to 500 mm per second, but I really could not be bothered...

@Avenga76 where did you get the metal bracket you used for the seat belt tensioner? cheers ill upload pic

It was cut on a waterjet cutter.

Most of the little bits like the lever arms and brackets were designed then cut out on the waterjet.

This is the mounting bracket for my Accuforce being cut out

Wow, first time seeing that. Water cutting the steel