Showroom Barry's Racing Sim - IT'S ALIVE (with motorcycle capability (sometime in the future))

2.5K + that someone else built or a $100 replacement. I know what I'd be doing.

naa, 1500$ diy kit to attach to my rig. Should bolt right up. I did overnight another JRK however. Im off next week and if I dont get to play a little im gonna be pissed.

Seat mounts sorted and bolt holes all drilled. Also, seat frame mounted onto the middle frame and looking good. I'll post some pics later.

Next up:
make the gearshifter shelf top
Make the steering wheel shelf top.
Weld the motor mounts
Cut out the Potentiometer mounts
Make the shoulder mounts for the rods
Test fit my lever prototype
Measure up the bottom frame and suss out the location of the traction loss system.

And lots more stuff too.

And now I have some plastic to mount the Motor controllers on.

The gearboxes have gone to the engineer to get the shafts made. We're opting to move away from the square ends on the shafts as we don't think they'll hold well enough over time. But we will still be going for a normal shaft through the middle, and a 4mm interference fit pin through the shaft to lock it in position and a nut on the potentiometer side. The shaft will be machined down to 6mm for a flex coupler to fit on.

The only part we haven't finalised is the lever side but we'll work that out this week.

Another bit of an update. Gearboxes are with the engineer to get custom shafts made. We've not decided how the levers will go on yet. Pics below are the levers and ball joints




Then there's the last part of the frame. The lower base. The lazy susan bearing goes at the front allowing the top 2 frames to pivot. This is for the traction loss mechanism. A 3rd motor will swing the back end left and right.






I also flipped the gears in one of the gearboxes so i have a left and right gearbox as the tube in the center is longer in one side.

Ideally i would like to see more frame material on the laze susan, The Single Bar across isn't exactly ideal.

Also what Castors are you planning on using ?

Is that lazy susan strong enough?

the 12" is rated for 1000lbs.

Lazy susan is just sitting there to get measurements.

Castors haven't been finalised yet. Just going to use temp wheels to get it set up first. Probably go with fairly industrial ones made from ptfe or nylon.

Lazy susan is capable of carrying 3 times more than the weight it'll be holding.

Did you guys share a link for that?

Little tip on the castor's...>Get one's that have a very HARD wheel material. Ive noticed a few "flat spots" if my rig sits for a week or so without moving the TL frame.

These are available at local hardware stores for the most part, for me it was Princess Auto, For the US guys it might be Harbor Freight....Im not too sure.

Just google 12" lazy susan and you should find plenty.

I plan in future to use a Flanged bearing like this,

http://www.princessauto.com/en/deta...uty-flange-mount-bearing-assembly/A-p8554404e

10$ on amazon with prime shipping

Here's the one I'm using.
http://www.princessauto.com/en/detail/750-lb-turntable-bearing/A-p8148496e

I have industrial bushes from a machine in a factory in my garage. I might even get my engineering friend to make wheels out of them and we could press bearings into them.

They were ran in a 24hour factory for about 2 years and there's no noticeable wear on them so they'd probably make good wheels.

I like the idea of using the bearing. I think for my setup I could use 2 and run a rod between the 2. I am concerned about weight and the motors even in horizontal movement.

I'll be using about 6 wheels at least for the traction loss to spread the weight.

Good idea on multiple wheels to spread the load, Remember tho, a Wheel that runs 24-7-365 isn't in the same situation as our rigs which sit for a period of time between use. Which is why i suggest the harder durometer material for the castor's.

My plan was to have the Top frame have a short pipe welded on that just clears the bearing depth on the lower frame, so then its just a matter of placing both frames on top of each other (castors support back side) and "find the hole" with the pipe on the front.....I dont think there's very much load on the front end when you have the proper angle on the castor's and everything working properly.