2DOF Joyrider Flight/Race Sim Build

Making progress, but slowly. Both motors can run freely and I've messed with the CTC of the levers until I have what seems to be a good range of motion on both axis, and still plenty of power and speed.

Next step is to make the mounts for the hall effect position sensors. Since I have a single shaft gear head, the sensors need to come off the levers. This gives me the nasty possibility of chopping off the pot with the push rod if the motor takes off and makes a complete revolution. I'm going to use a hose attachment which will hopefully just pull off if that happens, instead of breaking things. The brackets themselves will be made of relatively light aluminum bar, which should bend out of the way if struck.

@cgodwin I did this on an earlier rig and had over a year no problems with motor spinning out of control . The levers were made by bending a wire coathanger and soldering to a bit of brass tubing to fit the pot shaft. Not many degrees of movement for the pot but adequate if set up properly and safe for the pot. Just a suggestion. Good Luck.

Another great solution for mounting pots. Gj @Rastus.

@Rastus - That is a very innovative solution that exactly addresses my issue. Thanks!

I'm running 9" CTC (23 cm) so I would need the wire tracks to be at least twice that long. A little awkward at that size, but still probably better than what I planned on doing. My other option is to put the pots at the pivot points on the frame, and I did do the design to allow for that option. But in that case the pot is so far removed from the motor that I'm worried the motors will "hunt" or struggle to maintain position because of all the backlash / slop in the linkages.

wow i thought my 10.5cm was long. too cool it will be another beast.

A little hard to see in this photo, but here is my pitch lever assembly. The lever is 32 cm CTC since it operates almost 1 meter from the pivot point. The roll lever is "only" 14 cm. I think my range of motion will end up being about +/- 20 degrees in roll, and +/- 15 degrees in pitch. Not as much as I wanted for flight and roller coaster sim, but I think it will be enough. Any more than that and things start binding or hitting.

Thats a nice simulator. Nice welded also. Perfect. very nice motors! Post more foto please .

Hey. About those hall effect pots. I'm having an issue where the motor just stops responding after reaching a certain spot on the pot. I'm using SMC3 with arduino, in the software I can't do anything in the settings after the motor reaches this deadpot. When I get it to work it doesn't want to go the full 360, pot name is 6127V1A180L.5FS .

@Ryuuken29 please start a thread in q and a section. include photos of your pots as they are connected. btw the section that reads 180 means it is a 180degree potentiometer(6127V1A180L.5FS)

@Ryuuken29 - You are using the same pots as I am. My guess is that you are reaching the transition point where the pot makes an abrupt jump from 0.2V to 4.8V, or the other way around depending on which way you are moving. That would likely confuse the software. That being said, it should run through 90 degrees before it hits that point. Put a voltmeter on the output pin of the pot (or the input on the Arduino) and see what the voltage reads at and approaching the "dead spot". I suspect you might find it pegged at 0.2VDC or 4.8VDC and at the dead spot it will jump to the other value.

I'm a few days away from having mine all wired up and testing it myself, but I'm running a JRK and not an Arduino so how the firmware handles an 180 degree hall-effect position sensor (not exactly a potentiometer in the traditional sense) when rotated out of sensing range might be different.

I've been working very slowly on this. Just not a lot of time to devote to the build...

But, today I got it running with Live for Speed! Took a while to get the JRK and SimTools software sorted out, but once I did it works amazingly well. What a blast!

I'm having so much fun driving, I almost hate to take the next step in the build. Now I need to take the whole thing apart, make the enclosure panels, paint everything, and then reassemble it in a different room while sorting out all my cable management. Plus I really need to install my emergency stop switch.

Here is the rig running a replay. The motion is very similar with me in it, only it is much quieter and smoother with a little weight in it. The extreme motion is from a crash, but I picked this segment to give a better idea of the range of motion and speed I'm getting so far.

@cgodwin what was your pot feedback setup solution with these bodine motors? how did you end up connecting them?

Here is my hall effect pot setup. I've got a 1/4" bolt coming through a hole in my lever arm assembly. I had some some extra 1/4" ID hose from my laser cutter that fit nicely over the pot shaft but was loose enough on the bolt to require a hose clamp. I've got 1" x 1/8" aluminum holding the pot. The idea is this whole assembly can flex to correct for any alignment issues, plus if my motor happens to go crazy and make a complete revolution it hopefully won't break anything important.

ok ty, we use the same motors so i was interested in your take on it. Very nice.

Here is another short video showing the lever assembly in action.

Hi @cgodwin, where did you get those 5/8 Shaft couplers with keyway? Did you cut the coupler in half to use with both motors?

Also have you had a chance to measure if those motors draw more than 47A? If not, do you know if they could draw more than 47A? Thanks

I got the coupling from Amazon:

You are exactly right. I did just buy one and cut it in half.

I haven't measured it, but my motors came with a 10A auto-reset in the wire harness, which I figured I would leave in place for testing until they became a problem. But I've run the thing pretty hard and haven't had one go yet. I'm guessing they have a slow response, so my peaks might have been well above 10A. My JRK's also came up with a default current limit of 12A, which I have left alone for now. I'm not sure if I would have notice if the JRK was current limiting, but I haven't seen any signs of that so far. My sim is disassembled right now for painting, so I can't run any additional tests for another week or two.

I am running a pair of 47A power supplies. I'm running one motor on each, completely independent, just to limit how much equipment I can blow up at once. I had planned on running the power supplies in parallel running both motors together, so if one motor had a huge load on it I would be less likely to have a power supply shut down. But going to that configuration hasn't been necessary yet.

For some reason I'm unable to post a link. The ridged coupling I used was a Climax Part RC-062-KW Mild Steel, Black Oxide Plating Rigid Coupling, 5/8 inch bore, 1 1/4 inch OD, 2 inch length, 5/16-18 x 5/16 Set Screw from Amazon.