Showroom Budget Steel 6dof w/ MM (Now Sabertooth 2X60), Arduino, Chinese 12v Motors

Hi Everyone,

I thought I would post my build. The idea was to create a budget 12v machine made from steel, using Monster Motos, Arduinos, and 12 Motors from China. I've never welded in my life, but I thought I could do this.

Unfortunately, I don't have pretty schematics or plans - but I have used what I have learned from here to develop my own idea. Many thanks to others that have posted here and have influenced me. ( @SilentChill - largely borrowing from his design, @Pit for the MM diagrams, and everyone the keeps the FAQ up to date. )

Here are the items I have purchased:

12
Monster Moto driver
http://www.ebay.com/itm/191674295987
$71 USD

12
Northbridge Coolers
EBAY
$60 USD

6
Arduino Uno R3
MicroCenter
$36 USD

6
M5 Set Screws (connect 2nd motor shaft to the flex coupler)
http://www.ebay.com/itm/141837930169
$4 USD

6
Flexible Couplers - 5mm to 6.35mm (Connect set screw to Hall Sensor)
http://www.ebay.com/itm/331204345803
$21 USD

1
Aurasound Bass shaker
http://amzn.to/2bLltNi
$50 USD

1
Lepy Bass Shaker Amplifier (68w)
http://amzn.to/2c2csfx
$25 USD

1
6 Port USB Hub
http://amzn.to/2bXJknK
$8 USD

6
12V - 350 Watt Dual Shaft motors. 50:1, 72RPM. 20mm keyed shaft with 5mm center hole
https://dakemotor.en.alibaba.com/pr...2V24V_250W_worm_small_gear_reducer_motor.html
$600 USD

6
HP 1000w server power supplies
http://www.ebay.com/itm/111656748093
$132 USD

6
1/2 Threaded Rods (24 inches long)
https://www.zoro.com/value-brand-threaded-rod-carbon-steel-12-20x2-ft-u203600502400/i/G3453764
$18 USD

12
1/2 Female Rod Ends
https://www.zoro.com/qa1-female-stud-rod-end-rh-12-20-cfr8s/i/G5201393
$70 USD

1
Lightweight Fiberglass Racing Seat
https://thmotorsports.com/nrg-innovations/nrg-seats-frp-bucket/frp310/i-287094.aspx
$190 USD

3
Rectangle Metal Tubing for Base - 2" x 4" x 1/4" - 84" long
http://www.speedmetals.com/
$96 USD

6
Square Metal Tubing for Top - 1 1/4" x 1 1/4" x 1/8" - 84" long
http://www.speedmetals.com/
$60 USD

6
Hall Sensors (180 Degree BI TECHNOLOGIES 6127V1A360L.5FS)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/6127v1a360l.5fs/bi-technologies
$73 USD

6
20mm Ridgid Steel keyed Couplings
https://www.globalindustrial.com/p/...ling-wkeyway-mrc20kw4h90-black-oxide-20mm-5pk
$95 USD

2
1-inch Angle steel for motor mounts
http://www.lowes.com/pd/The-Hillman-Group-6-ft-x-1-in-Hot-RolLED-Weldable-Steel-Solid-Angle/3059249
$27 USD

1
1.5 inch Steel Flat Bar 1/4 inch thick X 4ft long (For lever arms)
http://www.lowes.com/pd/The-Hillman...-RolLED-Weldable-Steel-Metal-Flat-Bar/3059235

1
1.5 Inch Angle Steel for Rod End Mount
http://www.lowes.com/pd/The-Hillman...Hot-RolLED-Weldable-Steel-Solid-Angle/3059245
$13 USD

I decided to weld the unit together first and test fit to see how it felt.

Base: (2" x 4" x 1/4" rectangle steel with wood furniture legs I had laying around for height)


Top: 1 1/4" square tube (Sorry for the mess)


Dry Fit:


I'm currently working on wiring up the electronics and will post more progress soon. I will gladly post some specific dimensions if needed.

More to come soon.

UPDATE:

Here are the videos posted later in the thread.

I'm not committed to them being mounted inside, but I will say that the angle does seem more dramatic in the photos. Also, the motors have not been calibrated so some of the levers are in a position they will never experience while working.

Nicely built. From the photos I have some concerns, but maybe see how it pans out.

Glad I inspired someone else

Just a couple of observations, however I maybe wrong

I think you may have problems with the front 2 levers hitting the foot pedal frame. Probably need to move the frame a good 100mm inwards either side. Tried to show what I mean in pic below



Also you may need to get the arms a bit further out from the levers else they might bind in the lower position of the axis and end up bending the arms.

I learnt the hard way just trying to help

look forward to seeing the build progress

Craig - I fear you're right, but still holding out hope. I'm just finishing what seems like miles and miles of wiring. It takes a tidy build to a complete mess quickly. I'm learning from my mistakes. Last night I couldn't figure out why 3 of my motors wouldn't operate properly with SMC Utils. I realized that all 3 were mounted in the same way/direction. Reversed polarity on them and they are operational now.

Also, I have mounted the northbridge coolers on the Moto's and only 1 of 12 caught fire! Progress! haha

After I swap that one out - I will post some updated pics.

Cliff

During testing - I caught 4 more Monster Motos on fire due to PWM set too high. Unfortunately, I wont make much more progress until I have replacements.





Bolted in the seat and added some wood.

looks very promising, almost done, hold it on mate!

one more thing: with the seat in the middle you will cover the electronics, so if something is going wrong with your MMs etc., then do you have to disassemble the seat?

congrats for the work being done so far!

i'm concerned about rigidity of these brackets:


It's great to have an "Evolution saw", the cuts are near to perfect
It helps very much to weld more easily !

Your first welding are bulky... probably too cold (not enough current) or too fast
http://www.wcwelding.com/arc-welding-tips.html


try to cut some welding you made and have a look on penetration that's a good exercice

I can pretty much guarantee 99% nothing to do with PWM settings it's poor MM clones.

As I said - It was my first time welding, but they did improve as I went. I did cut a bunch of my practice welds to see penetration and they seemed plenty deep. I considered eliminating the brackets all together and just running the rod ens through the frame, but I couldn't easily find rod ends that were long enough.

If I could recommend anything to someone looking to build with steel - the 10" Evolution saw is amazing. I cut 1/4" steel 2x4's for the base just as fast as I would cut a wood 2x4 with my dewalt saw. Out performs my dewalt saw I spent 3x more $ on.

Cliff

Craig - Did you keep using the Chinese MM from ebay or did you order the DX.com or actual sparkfun versions for your sim?

I have bought from Ebay, AliExpress and from Amazon. All hit and miss

So - some news. You were exactly right Craig. Check it out:





After bending several threaded rods, I came to the realization that you were right and made the modifications. Much better now (still need to replace a rod or two)

Reversed the levers for stability, added struts, etc. Should do full testing this weekend.

Cliff

looks good cant wait to see a video. your almost there. if your rods keep bending you can slip some tubing over them.

They were bending because they were hitting the metal before I modified it. Anytime there was yaw or sway involved - bad noises resulted.

Glad I'm of some use to someone

Cool to see a video once you have it going properly

nicely done and your painting is great! I like the finish

can't wait to see the video