6DOF sim / linear actuator diy / sabertooth-arduino

Merci Baykah!
Q-Est ce que tes petites billes a l'interieur du top bearing laissent des marques sur l`exterieur de la tige de carbone a long terme ... assez pour changer pour un Bushing IGUS ?
J' ai les memes problemes ... ballscrew chinoise un peu courbé et je vais devoir ajouter le fameux spacer au bout de la tige comme celui de pmvcda

Thanks
The small bearing inside in your top ball bearing print some marks on the outside of the carbon rod in the long term ... enough to change to an IGUS Bushing?
I have the same problems ... Chinese ball screw are little curved and I will have to add the famous spacer at the end of the rod like : pmvcda

I took carbon tube of 2mm thick (25/21mm) to be sure they are strong. The mark on mine are light, it is also producing small carbon dust arround.
For DYI thing I don't think it is so much of a problem.

Anyway, the igus are expensive.

I'm more focused on removing the potentiometers .. they will fail long before the rod.

I just bought a 10 turns position sensor from bourns
AMM20B5A1CLASL380

it costs arround 35€, it is contactless and output 0 to 5V on 10 turns.

I will mount one in one of my actuators to validated things and switch the others after that.

Goal is to go contactless to replace the potentiometers.

Hello. Sorry to interupt. Question from the absolute beginner. Just wondering. As position sensors look quite complicated. I might have missed out the topic in the faq. Did or anybody consider using a analog output IR proximity sensor like sharp GP2Y0A02YK0F instead of pods, belts and so on?

I didn't see anyone try it but it might work

According to the datasheet :
"Distance Measuring Sensor Unit Measuring distance: 20 to 150 cm Analog output type"

But the graph voltage vs distance is non linear, so it would need a correction within the arduino

The version 10-80cm maybe more suited, however the non linearity is still the same
http://www.sharp-world.com/products/device/lineup/data/pdf/datasheet/gp2y0a21yk_e.pdf

It is not so expensive !, you would need to mount it on top of the actuator to avoir having dust on it.

If I had time ....

good , let me know if this work good ! ( laisse moi savoir si cela fonctionne bien ) merci , thanks

Edit: Disregard the question. I found the FAQ section on battery protection which indicates I can use a bridge rectifier.

I'm having the same issue as you did with the sabertooth tripping my server power supplies even with voltage clamping resistors. I'm going try to isolate the supplies with a diode and capacitor like you did. Is there a special type of diode that I should buy?

I don't know, I just took one a big one

Hows it working, I have these in my basket at farnell for over a year lol Im upgrading to 24v soon so I will be getting either these or encoders but encoders are really expensive.

@Thanos did a pretty cool 3D printed housing with a spring dunno if you have seen it or not ? https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1926226

I'm in the middle of rig disassembly (moving it in the house) I plan to do some maintenance on it in the mean time (and a little bit of paint).

I will modify 1 actuator with the contactless position sensor asap, but I don't go as fast as I want ...
I will be able to test without load, I strongly beleive it will work fine.

I took a look at your link, it is great, removing the belt on my actuator would be great ...

If i would look in to making more of these I'd be using kevlar string. Do google search for "Retracting ID Badge / Key Reel with Retractable Kevlar Cord"

Yeah, pray not to broke everything if the wire get loose ..

@SilentChill, I'm currently re assembling the sim and I tested one of my actuator (not ingame yet) with the AMM20B5A1CLASL380, so far so good.
Next month I'll buy 2 more

Thanks for letting me know I am going the encoder route for my next build

@SilentChill
The logic is to "home" the rig during starting ? and use the encoder for relative movement ?
You put the encoder on the motor shaft directly ?
Any idea of the cost of encoders ?

I'm going to use the 1280 I've had lying around for the last 2 years nearly. I'm going to connect directly to the bottom of the motor as the amp flow motors have a output shaft for encoders.

I'm going to try one of these
https://www.google.com/amp/s/m.alibaba.com/amp/product/60475930443.html

Some update :

=> I added a plate at the end of the motors to block them to ease the work of the front plate supporting everything.
I did that because I found 3 motor support broken when doing a complete maintenance of the actuactors ..
They would move before, now it is a tight fit

=> I added one contactless position 10 turn on one of the six to test

=> I painted the chassit

=> I did an enclosure + cooling for the arduino + sabertooth and I redone my wiring of the power supply to look like ... let's say ... not a complete mess.

=> modify an old part to fit a tablette mount on the motor shaft when not using the rig in car mode !

Next is :
More paint
Better USB management ...
Buy more contactless encoders ... (36€ each :/)
Take a look on G seat (I allready have an arduino for the harness tensionner)

I should be able to play again soon !

Rebuild finished for now, I started working on the flypt interface ! Sor far, I like it but I have to redo most of my settings !

I have 2 actuators that vibrate a lot ... culprit is most likely the low quality ballscrew from china .. I added during the rebuild, the anti woble V2 part, more tight fit inside the carbon tube, but it will not unbend the ballscrews ..

I also changer the wood part, that was used to simulate the brake disk, and putted a strong flexible polymer in order to have a better felling during braking (a little more displacement)