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DR gearbox backlash question

Discussion in 'Commercial Simulators and Peripherie' started by Thick8, Jan 11, 2025.

  1. Thick8

    Thick8 New Member

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    I've seen a lot regarding this issue. The DR fix was to come out with the ball screw boxes. They are not listed o the website anymore, so not sure if they are still available. I'd rather not spring the $500 for them either if I don't have to. I have seen where gas struts were installed with some degree of success. I added bungee cords to the 2 front corners of the frame which helped.
    Is the backlash issue a gearbox concern from the factory or are they wearing out over time? I read here where Noorbeast recommended to someone to turn the driven gear on the shaft. I removed the box from the yaw motor to try this. This won't be possible due to the fact that the driven gear hub can only be clocked onto the shaft in one position because it has a single keyway. I realized the fix would be to make another actuator arm with the keyway clocked 180 degrees from its current position. effectively turning the driven gear 180 degrees. If the issue is wear then this seem like a good way to reduce the play, but I don't want to waste my time if wear is not the issue.
    What do you think?
    John
  2. noorbeast

    noorbeast VR Tassie Devil Staff Member Moderator Race Director

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    A degree of wormdrive backlash is common, often intended for lubrication purposes: https://www.xsimulator.net/community/faq/wormdrive-backlash.293/

    Wormdrives may use brass or plastic gears. Brass can wear and spread and those may be worth rotating.

    Keep in mind how prominent backlash is, for any given amount of play, can be exacerbated by design. So, the longer the lever CTC the greater and more amplified the backlash.

    Some positive weight bias and/or things like struts can help mask but not eliminate backlash.
    Last edited: Jan 12, 2025
  3. Thick8

    Thick8 New Member

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    Good thing to know before I completed mine. That backlash make mine a non-starter. Those ballscrew gearboxes don't look complicated at all. Going to draw one up and cut it out.
    • Like Like x 1
  4. Thick8

    Thick8 New Member

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    I contacted DR. They said the gearboxes are available. 2 are $520 shipped. They said they have to get with Transtechno to verify shipping date. I wasn't aware that Transtechno made those gearboxes. I thought they made them in-house.
    I drew up a ball screw gearbox solution. The idea was to make it from off the shelf parts so there won't have to be many custom parts. Basically I have to drill 37 holes, cut 6 non-precision profiles, and sand down the sides of the motor mount and nut housing.
    I'm using the drive shaft and actuator arm from the original gearbox.
    They're not drawn in yet, but I plan on adding a couple cross braces (bolts through tubes) between the 2 side where they won't interfere with the arm travel. Do you think this will be strong enough? I thought about using steel, but aluminum is easier to drill and cut.
    Total cost $307.56 from amazon.

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: Jan 16, 2025
  5. Thick8

    Thick8 New Member

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    I was able to find 3" x.25" wall square tube on Amazon. So I redrew it using .25" drive arms and profile. Just took a little shifting here and there but it seems to work well, and I don't have to worry because it's too thin.
    Here's the final drawing. I haven't heard back from DR yet regarding shipping time on there gearboxes. Looking around though, they seem to be at least 4 months out. And this looks like a fun project that I can do in the house. finishing my rig is out in the garage in 20F weather.

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: Jan 16, 2025
  6. Thick8

    Thick8 New Member

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    I just finished reading about something called "Cogging" that seems to also be an issue with the DR machines. Due to limitation of the Arduino control board used, there is a stepping type motion introduced in the platform movement. I think I felt this the other day but attributed it to the backlash. It's been mentioned that changing out the controller may be a solution. Has anyone here tried this? I'm thinking I would loose SRS, but FlyPT with motion compensation is still an option.
    EDIT: just found Mark's interview with Igor. seems the cogging is caused by the motors not being able to rotate slow enough. Their fix was to add a 3:1 planetary gearbox between the motors and SFU. Back to the drawing table...
    EDIT: They first tried a 1500 rm motor in place of the 3000 rpm one. I'm going to keep the original motor and add a 5:1 planetary that (hopefully) will make up for the motor speed without introducing too much backlash. The three main unit will be bolted together, so it will still bolt to the existing mount without the complicated drive shaft.
    This is the specs of the planned planetary box. Is it a good (decent) choice?
    Gearbox Specifications

    *Manufacturer Part Number: TG60-G5
    *Gearbox Type: Planetary
    *Gear Ratio: 5:1
    *Efficiency: 96%
    *Rotor Inertia: 0.13kg.cm²
    *Backlash at No-load: ≤10arc-min
    *Max.Permissible Torque: 28Nm(248lb-in)
    *Moment Permissible Torque: 56Nm(496lb-in)
    *Noise: ≤55dB(1000rpm)/65dB(3000rpm)
    *Waterproof Rating: IP54
    *Lifetime: 20000hours
    Last edited: Jan 18, 2025