Question Motor choice for DIY FFB wheel

Hi folks,
I've been interested in building a FFB wheel after watching this video:

I even bought most of the components, including the motor, the one suggested is this one:
XD-63120
https://pt.aliexpress.com/item/32977274318.html?spm=a2g0s.8937460.0.0.1acf2e0eL2BnoZ
But there is almost no information about it.
After looking at other topics in this forum I saw a bunch of other projects with more powerful motors and Im wondering if thats a good choice.
TLDR:
What is a good choice in the $50 to $100 range?

Most people here that I recall are going for DD wheel, hence the much bigger motors (and power). There is no problem with that design if it is known to work (as it seems). The link does not show nm in the specs so I could not speculate as to the final torque you will get.

For some crude maths, I am running equivalent of 250w in DD (1000W 48v motor @12v) and the force is plenty for me. I have not measured the force but I can dial it up so that it is painful to drive after a few mins. If that is 180W with seemingly a 4:1 ratio, it should be fine but it depends on the stall torque of the motor really.

DD can be easier but it all depends what your skills are.

Thanks elnino.
I've been considering the 1000w my1020 too but it would increase considerably the price of the project since I would need a pretty powerful power supply and these do not come cheap where I live (and Im not sure I can trust chinese brandless ones). Aside from more drivers etc etc...
Another cheaper option for me would be a 250w my1016 that I can get locally. But I dont think that would be good enough for DD

can you show me more pictures of your project? how did you connect the encoder?

There are quite a few pics of my build over on my main rig build. It's somewhat outdated as I abandoned the 2dof setup but the wheel is mostly the same. HERE

To connect the encoder requires some work.
You have to disassemble the motor*, then drill out a hole in the middle of the backplate, to allow for extending the shaft.

Drill and tap m3 thread into the shaft, being careful to keep it square. This also involves covering the entire stator in painters tape to make sure no metal shavings contaminate it.

I then used a cut down m3 screw to make an 'all thread' to join it and a PCB standoff/riser to it with the addition of some thread lock glue.

For the actual mechanical joint between the motor and the encoder, I used some rubber fuel hose. No need to secure it, and 'gives' a little if you're a bit off with mounting the encoder or tapping the motor shaft. There's no load on it as such so it stays on perfectly.

I also removed the mesh from the ~8mm breather holes and increased them to 12mm. This helps a lot with airflow and we're not overly concerned with foreign objects entering the motor like there is in a normal use case.

*Tips for disassembly:

• Mark the end plates in relation to the outer shell. Some have markings already but some don't. This ensures motor 'advance' is not changed, which can impact the amount of force in one direction over the other.

• Try to push the shaft in from the front, leaving the front plate attached to the housing and pushing the back plate off. This ensures the commutator stays between the brushes and prevents them from smashing together and/or damage to the commutator. The magnets will make this hard!