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[WIP] 6DOF on hoverboard motors and SFU gearboxes

Discussion in 'DIY Motion Simulator Projects' started by TheTakerPL, Jul 23, 2025.

  1. TheTakerPL

    TheTakerPL New Member

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    Hi, I'm finally making my dream come true and started building my own 6DOF sim for flying DCS and MSFS.

    [​IMG]
    It's frame is inspired by FullMotionDynamics compact platform from 2013


    And gearboxes are inspired by DofReality's SFU gearbox upgrade



    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]


    So... THE FRAME:
    This was the biggest concern holding me back from starting, because I couldn't imagine how I will make this.
    I can't weld, I don't have any place to weld, and letting it for someone to do will be too expensive of course.
    I considered making it from T-slot aluminium profiles, but it would be too expensive and heavy. All those brackets and bolts loosening with time... nah.

    So I bought a TIG welder and started learning how to weld :D
    TIG doesn't really spark, and arc is so small and precise I could weld this in my basement with paint fume extractor.

    The frame will look like this, made of 32mm and 38mm stainless steel tubing. I'm practicing my welds and while they may not be pretty, they will surely hold.

    A grinder and paint makes me the welder I ain't!

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    MOTORS:
    Recently I've built my own FFB stick and rudder using FFBeast firmware and hoverboard motors, and then thought - those motors have parameters perfect for motion rig. But they are built weird, with wires going through the shaft, and motor drum being not very suitable for attaching any shafts to it (in the stick the gearing is different, and motors don't even make full rotation so I left phase wires twisting like that, this however would not work in rig, where actuator's motor need to make few full rotations)

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    Then I found a youtube channel from a guy who modified this motor to look like popular outrunner to use it in DD wheel:


    So I designed simpler backplates for motos and ordered them on PCBWay. Original ones from CNCDan's video would came out too expensive - too many machining operations.

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    Then I cut the motor drum on a lathe, drilled 6 additional holes, bored out original front plate, and put large additional bearing into it.

    [​IMG] [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    Motor's stator needs to be held by something so I printed these brackets from PA6-GF. Long screws will go through whole motor lenght to hold it to the mounting plate.

    [​IMG]

    Then I made custom steel shaft on a lathe and put everything together with some aluminium brackets to mount the AMT CUI 10-E2 encoders. So this is how it looks assembled:

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    Motors came out very cheap. I bought 6 used identical ones with 25mm magnets for around $75USD.

    GEARBOXES:

    Hoverboard motors have around 16KV, and they will be running on 48V. That's around 700RPM with load (probably)
    I need gear ratio something like 30:1. Planetary gearboxes, even from Aliexpress were still too expensive for me, and they could have too much backlash and cause problems later. I considered belt drives like in my FFB stick, but I would then need to print gears, since large ones are expensive too. Not to mention possibility of teeth skipping.
    And I don't want linear actuators because it takes just too much space and I have small room.
    Then I found that DofReality made it's P6 rig with new clever gearboxes that utilize ball screw, but changes their linear movement to rotational. Short SFU ballscrews can be bought cheaply on Aliexpress, so I bought one kit with bearings and started experimenting.

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    And this is finished actuator. It has gear ratio around 28:1, total range around 31cm. Arm lenght to mounting point - 21cm. Speed without load is around 600-700mm/s

    The driver running this will be Makerbase ODrive 3.6. One for 2 motors, so 3 of them for whole rig.
    I measured force one actuator can apply and on 20A current limit set on ODrive it was 94kg. NICE. Total amount of power it pulled was 183W, measured on plug-in power meter.
    [​IMG]


    Now the electronics box.
    3 ODrives arranged in a triangle in the middle of all actuators. I printed something like this (I will cut aluminium heatsink/mounting plate for brake resistors later):
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    And put LED strips inside because it started to look like Iron Man's arc reactor.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]


    Overall the cost for whole rig with motors, electronics, power supplys and TIG welder will be around $3000USD.
    That's all for today. I'm now modding the rest of hoverboard motors and making actuator frames.

    [​IMG]
    • Winner Winner x 4
    Last edited: Jul 24, 2025
  2. Joe Cortexian

    Joe Cortexian Active Member Gold Contributor

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    This is a very interesting approach. I can’t figure out from the photos how the Heim joint attaches into the rotating piece. Can you clarify?
  3. TheTakerPL

    TheTakerPL New Member

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    M10 bolts going through whole part

    Attached Files:

    • m10.png
      m10.png
      File size:
      1.1 MB
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  4. Gadget999

    Gadget999 Well-Known Member

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    My Motion Simulator:
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    i like what you have done with the hoverboard motors

    is there a video of them running ?

    have you considered turning the actuators 90 degrees - is there any advantage ?
  5. TheTakerPL

    TheTakerPL New Member

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    Turning them 90 degrees will make too big footprint with lots of empty space in the middle. I don't see any advantage, and since FlyPT allows this configuration I calculated everything to fit it best.

    https://www.youtube.com/shorts/se9rJ3MwO6k
    • Like Like x 1
  6. Joe Cortexian

    Joe Cortexian Active Member Gold Contributor

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    Now it makes sense. I didn’t see the second heim joint until I was looking for it after watching the video.
  7. TheTakerPL

    TheTakerPL New Member

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    I've put all power supplies in small PC case for clean look. I don't want industrial power supply lying on the floor somewhere. I'm also turning them on by relays controlled by original power switch from the case.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

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    [​IMG]
    • Like Like x 1
  8. TheTakerPL

    TheTakerPL New Member

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    Combined power supply case is ready.

    [​IMG]

    Idea with stealth look and turning on with factory pushbutton didn't work, because relays were very unreliable. So I cut out 3 holes for 3 big switches.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

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    Also case got 2 new 140mm silent fans
    [​IMG]
    • Like Like x 1
  9. absyfadhel1

    absyfadhel1 Active Member

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    Look amazing bro, finally found somebody making diy sfu gearbox, so i'm looking forword to see how its will move, i have my own 2dof, and i'm tired from the backlash and want sfu gearbox but i dont know how to make one and how it will be. Looking forward for updates.
  10. Thick8

    Thick8 Just some random guy

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    I made my own SFU drives but @TheTakerPL's are a much simpler design. I'm a fan. Great design!
    • Agree Agree x 1
    Last edited by a moderator: Aug 18, 2025
  11. absyfadhel1

    absyfadhel1 Active Member

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    Yeah i have look on your project and its look perfect but you didnt show steps and also i'm searching for steps because the idea of the ballscrew and how the lever will mov its ok but how the mototr also going up and down?


    Another question, is there any diffrent in the abilty of carrying more than the normal gearbox or its just remove the backlash?
  12. TheTakerPL

    TheTakerPL New Member

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    The ball screw is mounted to the motor and whole assembly is moving on a hinge. It moves slightly up and down, but less than DofReality's SFU gearbox (hinge in my design is just placed further to the motor to make the movement less dramatic)

    see animation of one of the first iterations:


    In final design I will probably get rid of the front floating bearing and that whole "cage" because as the whole thing moves it's mostly pointless. The ball-nut is the mounting point itself.

    [​IMG]

    And whole point of ballscrews is to cheaply get rid of backlash.
    • Like Like x 1
    • Informative Informative x 1
  13. absyfadhel1

    absyfadhel1 Active Member

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    Nice its look great work bro, thanks for help.

    I will order 250mm ballscrew i thinks its good enough for my 2dof.
  14. absyfadhel1

    absyfadhel1 Active Member

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    Hi bro, what you think about using cnc kit and just replace the motor with big one and but rod end to make it like this?

    Screenshot_20250820-101731_Temu.png
    This is the cnc kit


    And i want to know if i can use it to be like this


    517940818-660213926478749-3408861068592292266-n.jpg

    My thought its to make base mount for it and connect upper part with the lower part using rod end joint, and at the holde on top just use nuts and screw to connect it with the joint of the arm.