sx3000 Starter Kit & Dampers

After a garage clear out of stuff on ebay, I almost have enough money to order my much awaited simxperience kit :clap:

I have a question about the threads on the ball ends at the top of the actuator. I know that the thread on the scn5 itself is m10 x1.25, but what is the thread on the ball end that threads into the top of your seat upright?

I'm hoping that it is m10 x 1.5 as that is what I have in my seat frame upright.

I have thought long and hard about doing a motor based sim, but I keep looking at the videos of scn5 based sims and they seem to be very much more responsive.
I hope my observations are correct, it's a lot of money for me to spend at the moment.

Thanks in advance

Deaks

Hi,

I presume you could find some parts that fits your needs ... Mines are M10x1.25 like the top thread of scn5 ...

SCN5 actuators are very responsive ... perfect for seat mover setups...



Bleco

The SCN5's are much more responsive than motor based sims. Go with the Simxperience starter kit.

....Mike

Thanks for the advice Mike. My original plan was to always go with a scn based setup, and my rig is geometry is based around using them.
I guess I just got a bit twitchy about spending the biggest part of £1500 on an actuator kit...........but, i did take a really good look at all the options, and have decided that it's worth spending the extra cash.
Also, the amount of work that I have put into the project so far has been a lot, and I don't want to compromise at this stage. Its looking and working well at the moment even without the motion.

My plan is to add a 3rd scn5 for traction loss simulation, but I want to get it all working well as 2dof first.

I think I may have made a bit of a mistake with the thread I've cut in the top rail of my seat upright (where the top ball joints connect to the seat frame)
I have threaded the holes as M10 x 1.5. I'm now worried that this is wrong and I should have cut them as M10 x 1.25.

I guess that Bernard will be able to confirm exactly what the thread should be. I'm not sure if I can successfully re-cut the thread to M10 x 1.25.
If it's possible and will not result in a 'sloppy' or loose thread, then it just means I need to go and buy a M10 x 1.25 tap (around £12), I'm not an engineer so I don't know if it's possible.

Perhaps someone could clarify it for me.

Deaks

The actuator side ball-joints are M10 1.25 pitch. The bottom side are 3/8 24 pitch because M10 1.25 is an odd size and is more expensive to obtain.

After you get the actuators running, you will quickly forget how much you payed for them.

It is possible to re-tap the thread, but it will not be nearly as strong. Make sure to use a thread locker like Locktite. What is the material and how deep is the thread contact? I think you should be fine re-tapping, but keep in mind it will likely wear out over time. Once it wears out you have to weld it up and start over again.

Thanks frakk

the upper seat bar is aluminium and the thread is about 30mm deep as I welded a solid insert in the box section tube before capping the end off.
The only other way I thought I could get around this problem is to machine up some steel inserts that have an external thread of say M14 or even M16 x 1.5 and an internal thread of M10 x 1.25. This way they should last ages before any wear causes problems.

I should be able to order the sx-3000 kit and hopefully damper arms at the end of next week. I can't wait

Deaks

Post some pics and maybe we can give some ideas.....



I wish simexperience.com was on amazon because I have about 1500$ us in awards from work that I can use on amazon. I would order in the drop of a hat. I'm thinking about selling my motorcycle since I don't ride anymore and getting something I know I will use. And I wont have to worry bout getting run over for real anyway!