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2DOF compact race / flight with Oculus Rift

Discussion in 'DIY Motion Simulator Projects' started by reko19, Jan 9, 2015.

  1. reko19

    reko19 Active Member

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    Hi everyone, been lurking around for some time. Many cool projects and ideas. Originally I came across 2dof-wiper-motor-car-simulator-by-DERIY-(SATO), which got me interested in building my own. More recently a very impressive project DX Racer - Compact Simulator by Noorbeast. I think I am ready to get started on my own. While I have built some projects before, this is my first sim so it is a bit overwhelming. I am sure it is going to be a slow process with a steep learning curve and everything else going on in my life, but I am in no particular hurry. As I tried to summarize in my title, ideally I would try to have a compact sim capable of both racing and flying. Also after watching some youtube videos with Oculus Rift, this is definitely a must in my mind. I don't have a whole lot of space so it would have to be a compact design. Since it is too cold to work in my garage, now is a good time to come up with the design and gather all materials to build the frame. I originally was planning to use wood / plywood. It looks like the majority of the project on this forum are steel or aluminum. I am thinking aluminum is the way to go given the light weight and more compact design. With this said, i don't really have any metal-working tools other than drill press. Also, material is not as readily available. I couldn't go to a local Home Depot and pickup channels, plates, etc. So question number one, what would be a recommendation on the material, required tools (welder, etc.), and some on-line sources to purchase.

    As far as design is concerned I think it will be fairly close to the two projects mentioned above. The only other thing I am considering is incorporating some sort of provisions for the drift, or maybe even including it day one.

    Any suggestions, mistakes to avoid, etc. are welcomed.

    Thanks everyone.
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  2. noorbeast

    noorbeast VR Tassie Devil Staff Member Moderator Race Director

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    I would refine your build ideas and design before settling on materials. I think when it comes to materials it depends a bit on what you are most comfortable working with and the other resources that are available to you, plus your own build priorities. I started in steel and was initially going to build a replica of @bsft's brilliant Desk Racer but swapped to aluminum primarily for aesthetics and weight savings.

    I purchased a cheap Ozito $60 drill press and $100 welder for the DX Racer project and both have been invaluable investments. I also consider an angle grinder (with grinding & cutting wheels) and power drill essential for that kind of project.

    I will be adding drift later on and have kept that in mind in my design planning, but it does take up more floor space.

    The DX Racer at 500 X 500mm for the base and even smaller for the seat mounting plate and components is almost too compact. There is quite literally not a millimeter to spare between the components that make up the seat mounting plate and while I like that I would not recommend such close tolerances. Many things would actually be much easier to build if it was a little bigger and most people would not even notice the differences. So keep in mind ease of construction when finalising your design ideas.

    Sketch something out and put it up here, you will find plenty of people willing to contribute with ideas and observations that will save you both time and money. It will also help you clarify what your key project criteria are.

    Many things can be ordered online, but can take a while to arrive, depending on where you are located.
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  3. reko19

    reko19 Active Member

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    @noorbeast, I agree, adding another couple of cm in addition to 500x500mm would not make a whole lot of difference if it means an easier built. I like your design a lot, I would consider changing a couple of things. First, for rift I am thinking of mounting a chair to a pillow block bearing similar to this:
    7247204-23.jpg
    I also would like to come up with a solution of not having to adjust a position of the mounting post when changing between flight and race sim. I am thinking something similar to adjusting a seat position in a real car, as opposed to re-mounting the seat and adjusting the u-joint support position at the same time. Or maybe using controls that are not so much different in weight. Not sure if this is an option, I wouldn't want to use something that is inferior to your setup.

    Also picked this up:
    http://www.harborfreight.com/welding/arc-welders/80-amp-inverter-arc-welder-91110.html
    http://www.harborfreight.com/4-inch-angle-grinder-91222.html
    Haven't done any welding in my life, there is always first time for everything...

    Lastly, found these on eBay:
    http://www.ebay.com/itm/351093944483
    Planning to pick up three motors, the same seller has motors with higher RPM, lower gear ratio 25:1.
    http://www.ebay.com/itm/351066992384
    Would my first choice work better?
    Thx
    • Like Like x 1
    Last edited: Jan 10, 2015
  4. noorbeast

    noorbeast VR Tassie Devil Staff Member Moderator Race Director

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    The big factor in changing between flight and race on my sim was the significant additional weight of the Fanatec gear. If you are using lighter controllers I am pretty sure you could have a fixed balance point.

    Having an adjustable seat would work and I did initially consider doing the same, but it is not feasible with the DX Racer where I also wanted a shared quasi surge plate for all controls, as that determines the seat position relative to the controls. The other option was a counter weight, but I prefer the adjustable post I came up with.
  5. SeatTime

    SeatTime Well-Known Member

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    Hi. Just my 2cents worth. If that pillow block twists (most do), then it will not be suitable for mounting a chair.
  6. reko19

    reko19 Active Member

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    could you explain why not? according to the spec loading capacity is several thousand pounds. This would be sitting on top of the universal joint and would only allow for the chair to turn around vertical axis. I will try to come up with the sketch.
    http://www.mscdirect.com/product/details/05600416

    @norbeast I was also thinking about the counterweight. Since I am in way over my head as it is I don't think i'll be trying to replicate your "surge" idea.

    Could you guys pls comment on the motors I found on eBay. I know other people used 50:1, I would like to buy them sooner then later since nobody knows how long it will be for sale for.
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  7. noorbeast

    noorbeast VR Tassie Devil Staff Member Moderator Race Director

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    For some sort of compact full frame I would recommend you go the 50:1. I started with 25:1 but ended up swapping to 60:1. The 50:1 will also give you some holding leeway in terms of the balance point and if designed well then you will likely be able to get away with some variation between controller weight with a single balance point.

    Others are self taught welders. Watch a couple of Youtube videos and practice on some scrap. Or just ask around, you are bound to know someone who can weld well enough.
  8. SeatTime

    SeatTime Well-Known Member

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    I thought you wanted to use this bearing instead of a universal joint. I do not understand why you need this? A good quality uni joint (recommend one from a car drive shaft) is all you need. For this type of Sim, the chair should not be able to twist in any way.
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  9. reko19

    reko19 Active Member

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    i thought that drift is simulated by rotating a chair around a vertical axis?
  10. SeatTime

    SeatTime Well-Known Member

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    Not exactly, traction loss moves the whole frame of the seat mover, normally via rollers at the back and a bearing up the front. Recommend you have a look at some of the designs already detailed on this site, before proceeding further with your design. It will save you allot of time\frustration\money.
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  11. noorbeast

    noorbeast VR Tassie Devil Staff Member Moderator Race Director

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    @SeatTime is right and the pivot point would be a little in front of your feet. You can use the bearing you have but best to sketch and post an initial design so others know what you have in mind and can advise accordingly as to what will and will not work.
  12. reko19

    reko19 Active Member

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    ok, point taken, thank you. but if i am planning to do something compact i am not sure how i could have a pivot point in front of my feet. the best i could do is to have it at the front of the platform that seat is attached to.
  13. noorbeast

    noorbeast VR Tassie Devil Staff Member Moderator Race Director

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    Being compact with traction loss is difficult because of the physics involved.

    Can I suggest that you first focus on doing the 2DOF compact build and then consider traction loss later. The reason is that you may be surprised how well a 2DOF can simulate drifting with a good motion profile, particularly with the immersion of the Rift.
  14. reko19

    reko19 Active Member

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    i agree, just don't want to overlook something that would make it difficult to upgrade in the future. chances are i will not be doing another one from scratch
  15. bsft

    bsft

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    then make room for a larger frame and start building.
  16. noorbeast

    noorbeast VR Tassie Devil Staff Member Moderator Race Director

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    My Motion Simulator:
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    Basically traction loss involves mounting 2DOF on another frame, so a compact build works to advantage in that the 2DOF part is small from the onset. The additional traction loss frame does take floor space, it needs to be long enough (about the length of a full frame) to accurately mimic traction loss, that is just physics.
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  17. Nick Moxley

    Nick Moxley Well-Known Member

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    I would like to think my rig is as compact for a 3dof as your somewhat gonna get. Im only 21" wide (main frame) and length if you add in the Missle nose cone is just over 6' Width depends on how much traction loss you build in.
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  18. noorbeast

    noorbeast VR Tassie Devil Staff Member Moderator Race Director

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  19. reko19

    reko19 Active Member

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    thanks guys. i need to decide which way i am going. as far as perfoemance is concerned, is there a difference between placing the motors underneaze a seat similar to Noorbeast versus behind the seat similar to Nick Moxley? I basically need to fit into the space of a pinball machine as one of them will be replaced with the simulator.
  20. noorbeast

    noorbeast VR Tassie Devil Staff Member Moderator Race Director

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    My Motion Simulator:
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    Under the seat like mine is compact and produces good motion but a shoulder mount like @Nick Moxley is the most efficient design in terms of the significant leverage it has to produce motion.
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