2DOF Wiper Sim from Serbia

Hello people,
I'm finally starting my project.
I only hope my daily job will allow me to finish everything before New Year, so I can give myself an awesome present

Things already done:

1. Built AMC and H-Bridge (all the parts for 50 euro, including LCD)
2. Read all related posts more than 5 times, and collected all the info (I know I've missed some things, so expect a lot of questions).
3. Downloaded needed SW and video material.

Things to do:

1. Power up AMC, program it, test it, ....
2. Power up HB, test it, ....
3. Modify existing racing frame (from profile picture) to host X-Sim PC, all of electronics, batteries, and some kind of PSU (mainly for charging the batteries).
4. Acquire some motors and fabricate mounts for fb pots.
5. Uninstall Win7 64bit and install 32bit, X-Sim and Games.
6. Enjoy racing

A couple of pictures and questions :

Just to see that I'm serious



I've tried to use toner transfer method for making PCB for the first time and I was surprised with the results.
I will certainly make another set of boards in the near future, and correct some things I've noticed could be done easier and better.
I was in a hurry, so the bottom side doesn't look so professional, but I think it's good for the first time. I will repair a couple of joints and check for shortcuts before powering up.





Before I mount the mosfets, I need to thicken high amps leads on HB and correct some joints.
I need to cut aluminium L shapes for cooling, and find some spacers like other did.





Here is my LCD and I have a datasheet for it (it is blue back light one, I bought it before reading about the problems with it's power consumption ).
I wont pretend to be an electronics guru, so please comment on how to connect the LCD (I don't want to make parallel lcd board, was thinking to solder ribbon cable directly to LCD).



And finally, the position feedback pots I'm planning to use.
I was thinking about 1:1 ratio, so if I'm not mistaking, I need to connect pot shaft to center of motor arm. This is 100k linear 270 deg. pot, and it's cheap.
Multi turn pots are to expensive (20 euro each), and I need to use gearing to make them work.
Please correct me if I'm wrong on this subject.

Enough for first post.
Feel free to suggest and comment

I'll update you on the progress,
Igor

Looks good fermevc! I will be impressed if you finish before christmas without any unecspected troubles, but I wish you good luck with it. What kind of rig do you plan to build?

Fred

Thanks Fred
It will be a mixture of many rigs seen here, but basically SimforceGT style I think.
Only thing I must fulfill is that it must be clean outside (no wires, batteries, bolts,... around it), otherwise I'll end up driving in a garage instead of nice, warm room (I have full support from my wife as long as my gaming place looks good and clean ).

Good job Igor!

I would suggest you to use 10Kohm potentiometers instead. 100K will be much noisier than 10K. Single turn 1:1 will work good.

I also wish you good luck!

10k 90 degree would be nice.

Thanks for support guys

I've already bought 100k pots
Frakk, can you please explain the noise issue. Will the noise be coming from the motors or pots?

Potentiometers don't generate noise, it will be coming from the power supplies, motors, microcontroller, and other parts connected and placed near by.

10K ohm is a much easier way for this noise to go to Ground and not cause voltage spikes on the analog inputs.
I'm not saying 100K is bad or you will have problems with it, this is just a general rule of thumb to consider.

Main reason for me to buy 100k was this:

Thanos said to Evan:
...
Using a 10Kohm pot will have less resolution (best if its used in 8bit reading) but it will be also less sensitive to noise if you are using long unshielded lines.
Using a 250Kohm potetiometer will give you the best resolution (perfect for 10bit resolution) but you will have to use shielded lines to protect the signal from noise.
A middle solution can be using a 100Kohm potetiometer.
...

So, I hope that by using shielded cables for pots will go fine. Thanks again for info Frakk.

This made me jiggle a little bit.

The resistance of the potentiometer has nothing to do with it's resolution. The resistance only changes the fact that current can pass through it easy, or not that easy, which affects the noise immunity.

The resolution of a potentiometer depends on the number of turs, it's quality, and materials used to make it.

Like I said, I`m not an electronic guru
I accept any advice and suggestion, w/o going into theory.
I will buy 10K pots, so I can try and see the difference.
Hopefully, my next post will be of some project progress

Hm, I need some help already :

I was going through all the pages related to connecting LCD to AMC and I'm afraid to do it without confirmation from comunity.

My LCD is one with blue backlight and it's the most expensive component of all in AMC+HB.
So I wouldn't like to burn it by having it connected wrong.



Here is the datasheet: LCD dem16217syhpy.pdf

If someone could make a little table for me to connect this to AMC, I would be more than happy.
I can't figure out those jumpers and other stuff mentioned in the datasheet, cause there's some difference when looking the LCD and manual.

Thanks in advance, Igor

The LCD output connections are labeled on the picture in the first post of the AMC.
The input pins are labeled and numbered in your LCD datasheet.
I won't make a table, you should be able to connect E-E RS-RS and so on... If you have the LCD board it should take care of this, but double check.

The jumpers will only change the backlight, and which pin should be connected to + and -. Just leave them alone, and use a small resistor 100-300ohms in series with the LED's. Power - Resistor - Anode - Cathode - Negative. for example. If the LCD doesn't light up reverse + and -.

I'm truly amazed by the fast responses.
A moment ago, I've found an updated datasheet with a bit more info, and googled a bit more on various LCDs.
I was on the right path, but didn't got the b..lls to try it
My question wasn't about E-E RS-RS ... :lol:
I was curious about contrast pins and those Rs and Js, but I get it now.
I think that Vo pin is for contrast, and if I connect it via small pot (washer on Vo, other pot pins +/-), I could adjust the contrast.
I know that by using Thanos's LCD board would probably make it easier but I'm out of boards and chemicals till next couple of weeks, so ...

Thanks to Frakk once again :thbup:

:lol: :lol: :lol:

But its true... :mug1:

Can you show me how Larger resistance = Greater resolution?
By resolution I mean positional resolution, determining the angle at which the potentiometer stands.

I will accept angle vs voltage graphs comparing two same pots, different only in resistance.

If you can prove me, I will take my hats off!

I'm honored to see that master Thanos stopped by to see about my little project

Anyway, I've made some progress with AMC.
Everything went OK at first try, videos and manuals followed all the way, and the result is :

1. Ponyprog writes, verify, read the FW for 22MHz,
2. HyperTerminal shows current KP values and I can write new ones.

Only thing that bothers me is my stupid LCD. I can only see first line filled with squares, but I didn't had a chance to try the pot for Vo pin.
If I connect pin 3 (Vo) to +5V, LCD is blank, and by connecting it directly to GND, I can see first line with squares.
In Thanos's video tutorial, we can clearly see that after the flashing is done, AMC starts automatically and some data is shown on both LCD lines.
I have switched dip 1 to on (to show pot values, and bottom line shoud show the FW used).
I've initially posted that I'm using blue back light LCD, but that's not true. It has back light but yellow/green, and I can see the data even without the back light.
I'm curios because if the contrast is an issue, why can't I see both lines filled with square blocks. Programming of Atmega went fine, communication is OK, FW verified, and still I can see only top line of LCD like Atmega is empty

Please take a look at this table and comment:



If I remember correctly, I've read something about connecting R/W pin to ground. It doesn't make any sense but, should I try it ?

I'm building HB in the mean time (thickening high amp. leads, fixing cooling plates) and would appreciate some clues about possible solution to above problem.

Thanks in advance, Igor

The top row filled squares mean that the LCD is not initialized. This is normal, it is just showing you that there is power and the LCD is working, but no initialization commands have been received. The Vo contrast will only change how dark the LCD pixels are.

The R/W line is critical, as it determines if you are sending a Read or Write command. Connect it to Ground and set it to Write mode.

Right as always Frakk
R/W pin set to GND (write - ON), AMC reset and :clap:
LCD data is here !
I calibrated pot movements with small trimmer pot to show 0-1023 end to end, and was going to test x-sim data like in video tutorial, but ...
Call me noob, dumb or whatever, I couldn't get passed the math plugin section
Tried to learn more from manuals and forum but didn't find any info.
I have Sender operational, I can see LFS plugin running and game data is changing, Profiler is showing that Sender is connected, and I can see the values in input setup.
This is where stuff gets confusing for me.
Inputs are changing really fast and I can't relate them to one I need. If I understood correctly, I need to add some lines in math setup after I create an axis.

How to tell which one of many try to connect sender for plugin info values are the one for let's say X axis?

If someone could help me overcome this issue it would be great, or maybe point me to some info so I could understand it better.
My plan is to bye some motors in a day or two, and test the whole electronic assembly before going into modification of my racing rig.
Hope someone will give a hand, thanks and BR, Igor

Hello fermevc. I am a rookie on this too, but will try to answer. You must add lines to each axis. Eks try output 1:1 (gforce). Do you see values changing in the line you have added, when the game is running? I also recomend using test-plugin in sender. There you can changes values manually (no need for the game running) btw: tell us the x-sim version you use. The input setup you can leave like it is for now. It`s in math setup and output setup you must do the work. Dont mind asking, that is what this forum is about

Fred

Thanks for fast responce
I will prepare some info and screenshots, so it would be easier to help me.
I'm on the right path, so I need only one good example for this, but hopefully there are guys always willing to help, thanks fredspeed and all comunity :thbup: