Showroom 2DOF with 24v wheelchair motors

My 2dof simulator inspired by @Halloween2go

Frame consists of 25mm square tubing welded, and some other items I had at hand, for example a drive shaft from a Volvo 240, birch wood for wheel mount, plywood for pedal rest etc.

A late addition was creating the monitor mount instead of having the monitor as a separate unit, it's awesome, but we mostly run it using VR.

Parts:
2 Wheelchair motors MY1016z (24v/250w/75RPM)
2 Adjustable transformers 0-24v with pot to adjust (20a/480w)
2 Hall angle sensors (the green digital 12-bit ones)
2 BTS7690 motor drivers (IBT-2)
1 Arduino UNO (running SMC3 in Mode2)
4 M12 rod ends

Currently running the motors at about 16v, it works like a charm, and the motor drivers are not modded with extra heatsinks but still doesn't get too hot (you could touch them without getting burnt).

Here are some images of the motors and electronics.

Mounting of the hall sensors is done with a 3d-printed bracket using a STL found in a another build here, don't remember what thread (standing on the shoulder of giants). The red "wheels" are something I did in tinkercad and it's just rubberbands used as belts.

I have since added a bigger curved monitor to the rig, and two transducers (diy buttkickers), just waiting for a usb-soundcard.

Nice rig. The hardware is similar to my hardware.
you can use the BTS up to 18-19 volts, without any problems.

As belts, i use "endless drive belt 2mm". These can be welded together with an iron.
With rubber I would be afraid that it would become brittle

I wonder what length of the lever (as a picture) you put on the engines?
My assumption of 60-80 mm but I prefer to ask because you already have experience with that?
I have the same electric motors and would like to put them progress under my feet, instead of behind you set.
I have a 1200W Power Supply on 24 Volte will be a problem since I read that BTS7690 goes from 5V to 27V (you stated that you work at 16 V and the comment below says it will work at 18-19V) I can reduce the voltage on the Power Supply minimum to 20-21V directly on it. Other parts besides the power supply are the same as yours.
Below I will try to make my post with pictures and videos of my simulator. Sorry for my bad English.

I have 105mm. (specified as length in the above diagram, center to center from bolt and pivot axle)
But the length of the pivot points depends on how far apart they are from each other on the rig (mounting point on the upper moving part) If the upper arms are mounting points are close together, there will be more roll. On my simulator they are 48cm apart.

And it also depends on how far from the upper mounting point to the pivot point (front/back). that affects the pitch. In my case I have the center of the pivot point 50cm forward from the center of the mounting points on the simulator.

The motors are really powerful and responsive, and my simulator gives me more range than I need (about 13 degree pitch and 30 degree roll). In SimTools I tune it down to about 25-35%.

I think the BTS7690 can handle 22v, but you will need som external fan, and I think it's highly recommended to add heatsinks on top also.

Thank you very much for this information, you have helped me a lot. Of course I planned to cool it with fans + thermal paste. I will try to set the simulator progress as soon as possible. Only I do not understand why 22 V when on the pages where they are purchased it is written as in the picture listed in the attachment. But I'm new in this so I may have overlooked something.

Here is a list of modifications done the last 4 months since I initially built it.

After first adding a monitor stand on the simulator, and later on a even bigger monitor it became to front heavy, so I shortened the back of the top part, moved the drive shaft forward, so now the balance is a lot better.

I also shortened the levers from the motors from about 100mm to 75mm. Since they now get more power but less range I increased profile intensity in SimTools3, feels snappier now.

Upgraded from Logitech to Fanatec CSL DD 5nm, CSL pedals and a club sport shifter.

Added two diy-buttkickers.

Finally got around to recording a video of it in action:

A short stage in Richard Burns Rally.

More updates,

Modified the SMC3-firmware a little. After communication timeout the standard firmware switches to use a a fourth of the configured PIDs, That means when you first power it up it snaps into position, and after about half a minute it "relaxes" (timeout-mode) and becomes a little loosy-goosy, an not as stable as when running the games. (effectively, if you for example have 400P, in timeout-mode it uses 100P).

I modified the code to only reduce to half instead of a quarter in timeout-mode. And to start in timeout mode when you power up.

That looks great. I am also building mine base on Halloween2go videos. The 3d printed pullys you are using are the just driving an elastic band? Are they reliable like. As I like that idea.

Edit. Sorry just re read the endless drive belt part will look into them thanks

I'm still using the rubber bands, and they are very reliable. Not much tension, so the rubber bands are not "stressed". Also, since the pot is so easy to spin and the plastic pulleys are quite large they are extremely easy to turn.

Ah that's great to hear I think I will look at this method for my hall effect pots too s they should be free running also.

I wonder if you could use an o ring of the right size

Hi,
I've just this week finally put together my first DIY motion system. I'm using thr same MY1016Z motors you have, but have them mounted at the front and have everything working. I've even done a couple of 25min AI iRacing races with no problems.

The only issue I have is that if I set the Fpwm frequency to anything higher than 10khz the motors tend to fail if I put even a slight constant load on them pretty easily and at that frequency they emit quite a high pitched noise.

Can you share or let me know if you are experiencing the same or what your SMC3 setting are at?

Cheers, Michael

I have no problem with motors failing, and I think I'm using 25khz. I am unable to get to the rig now, but will check my settings as soon as I can.

Think I'm running the motors at 18v also.